DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Dec 11, 2014 at 4:18 PM Post #2,926 of 10,535
Help. I recently damaged my HE-500 cable. One of the cables on the right side came free. I tried to slot it back in the hole but no dice. I even tried to remove some expose more of the wire but all that did was shorten the length. I have some extra connectors. Can some one guide me or show me a tutorial how to open them up (or whatever) so I can fix it (I don't want to buy new cables).
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 4:59 PM Post #2,928 of 10,535
  Hopefully you guys can help me out. I'm doing a custom set of grados in a light pink and black color scheme. I am going to do a couple modifications to them including a single sided detachable cable. 
 
Thanks. And if you're wondering, here's a quick sketchup model with different color schemes. I'm leaning toward full pink cup. http://imgur.com/a/Fqjvz

 
I'm sorry, but I think pink is a horrible colour for headphones, so my opinion is pretty much worthless. My wife isn't into pink either, but she thinks the second image shows the nicest colour scheme and the fourth image runs second.
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 7:45 PM Post #2,929 of 10,535
   
I'm sorry, but I think pink is a horrible colour for headphones, so my opinion is pretty much worthless. My wife isn't into pink either, but she thinks the second image shows the nicest colour scheme and the fourth image runs second.

No, that's fine. I appreciate your opinion. She's a pink freak and they're mostly for home use. At least her family won't try and steal them from her... Also, the pink really doesn't dhow up nicely in Sketchup. Its going to be more pastel and subtle and match the cable. I just need to figure out what size cable fits in what size paracord. 
 
Dec 11, 2014 at 8:09 PM Post #2,930 of 10,535
  Hopefully you guys can help me out. I'm doing a custom set of grados in a light pink and black color scheme. I am going to do a couple modifications to them including a single sided detachable cable. 
 
I don't want to go with a visible braid, just a solid cable. Either Mogami W2893 or Canare L-4E5C will probably be what I use. I want to sleeve it with light pink, so Paracord will be my best bet. What size paracord fits over these wire models? Do I have to strip the jacketing off to fit it in the Paracord? And if so on the last question, is there a wire that's recommended where I do not have to strip off the jacketing? 
 
Thanks. And if you're wondering, here's a quick sketchup model with different color schemes. I'm leaning toward full pink cup. http://imgur.com/a/Fqjvz

550 paracord should be fine for either of those with or without the shielding
i prefer to remove the shielding  to make for a lighter and more flexible cable
the paracord will stretch to fit.. good luck
 
 
i think pink is a fine color for headphones
 
Dec 12, 2014 at 12:26 AM Post #2,931 of 10,535
Hello everyone
first of all thanks for all the help and knowledge you are providing.
I accidently broke my speaker system's 3.5 mm jack and all I got now is in the pic.
help me to fix it please.
thanks

 
You need a 3.5mm stereo plug. Hope you have soldering skills.
 

 
Dec 12, 2014 at 1:10 AM Post #2,932 of 10,535
You need a 3.5mm stereo plug. Hope you have soldering skills.




and to add,the 3.5mm jack has 3 poles called TRS (Tip Ring Sleeve).....to identify,hold the 3.5mm jack/plug in your left hand,horizantally) where the metal contacts facing to your right/the soldering points on to your left.......,the right most tip (end) is the T (left channel +) , the middle ring is the R (Right +) and the left most metal is the S (commong ground for both L & R channel,ie. R - & L -)....this is the you shd solder them......
 
Dec 12, 2014 at 10:26 AM Post #2,933 of 10,535
Hello everyone
first of all thanks for all the help and knowledge you are providing.
I accidently broke my speaker system's 3.5 mm jack and all I got now is in the pic.
help me to fix it please.
thanks


 
Buy a Digital Multimeter (DMM; no need to go crazy; $5-$10) for testing which wires go to which contacts (TRS), a soldering iron and a 3.5 mm plug.  Depending on the plug, you might want some heat shrink to make it look nice.  I just used a seriously cheap Rean 3.5 mm plug and did not bother with heat shrink, as the paracord fit inside.  I'd snip those crappy ends, remove what insulation you need to, and strip the individual wires to the appropriate lengths (again, can depend on the plug).
 
Seems like a fun little project.  Good luck.
 
Dec 12, 2014 at 6:12 PM Post #2,934 of 10,535
Just to be sure and not do something stupid, if I get this for my mini "3.5 - 3.5" IC (still hesitating between cables), may I solder the shield to the ground only or should I get a separate cable (like in a quad cable) to get the ground? I know this is the way to go for a "3.5 - RCA" IC but a doubt arose for a "3.5 - 3.5" mini.

 
Thanks again for the tips guys.
 
P.S.: Neutriks on their way home = D
 
 

 
Dec 12, 2014 at 8:03 PM Post #2,935 of 10,535
  Just to be sure and not do something stupid, if I get this for my mini "3.5 - 3.5" IC (still hesitating between cables), may I solder the shield to the ground only or should I get a separate cable (like in a quad cable) to get the ground? I know this is the way to go for a "3.5 - RCA" IC but a doubt arose for a "3.5 - 3.5" mini.

 
Thanks again for the tips guys.
 
P.S.: Neutriks on their way home = D
 
 

 
I've done it before with a headphone cable, No issues with sound quality as far as I can tell, and I'm pretty sure it won't make much of a difference for an IC.
 
Dec 14, 2014 at 3:38 AM Post #2,937 of 10,535
   
Buy a Digital Multimeter (DMM; no need to go crazy; $5-$10) for testing which wires go to which contacts (TRS), a soldering iron and a 3.5 mm plug.  Depending on the plug, you might want some heat shrink to make it look nice.  I just used a seriously cheap Rean 3.5 mm plug and did not bother with heat shrink, as the paracord fit inside.  I'd snip those crappy ends, remove what insulation you need to, and strip the individual wires to the appropriate lengths (again, can depend on the plug).
 
Seems like a fun little project.  Good luck.

yup soon I will post the final result when I will be free I will do this job
Thanks
 
Dec 16, 2014 at 10:05 AM Post #2,939 of 10,535
Does anyone have success using the internals of the Neutrik 4 Pin male XLRs in the body of any of the other (Oyaide Focus 1/Furutech non-Carbon) shells? I don't like the design of the Neutrik connectors but it seems like nobody else makes an attractive 4-Pin. Also, has anyone done a custom splitter to be 3D Printed? I just made one in SketchUp and sent it to Shapeways for printing. Not sure how much DIY has been done in this area, or if everyone is just using the Viablue splitters or is just using heat shrink.
 
Dec 16, 2014 at 10:40 AM Post #2,940 of 10,535
  Hopefully you guys can help me out. I'm doing a custom set of grados in a light pink and black color scheme. I am going to do a couple modifications to them including a single sided detachable cable. 
 
I don't want to go with a visible braid, just a solid cable. Either Mogami W2893 or Canare L-4E5C will probably be what I use. I want to sleeve it with light pink, so Paracord will be my best bet. What size paracord fits over these wire models? Do I have to strip the jacketing off to fit it in the Paracord? And if so on the last question, is there a wire that's recommended where I do not have to strip off the jacketing? 
 
Thanks. And if you're wondering, here's a quick sketchup model with different color schemes. I'm leaning toward full pink cup. http://imgur.com/a/Fqjvz

Both of those will be too thick to fit inside standard 550 cord, even if you found 750 cord it would be too thick to fit inside. I have seen that at least one person managed to strip the jacketing off the canare L-4E6C and was able to pull the shielding through 550, but it was apparently very difficult to accomplish. I don't know of any standard cable that will fit through 550 cord. You could always do techflex over the Canare, but I'm not sure that's a look that you want. You could always get regular stranded wire in a smallish gauge and use that instead of a jacketed cable. It will likely be more expensive to do that way though, and wouldn't look as uniform as a jacketed single cable in 550.
 
Out of curiosity, why a single sided cable? Where are you going to run the cable for the other driver? You could always design and have a small custom splitter printed up by Shapeways... I am going through that process now myself. That way you don't have to settle for the standard viablue ones, and they can be printed from plastic for about $15 or so.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top