DIY Cable Gallery!!
Dec 6, 2016 at 6:43 AM Post #15,047 of 16,305
Nice job, and I thought so. Not only HD800, but many headphones uses cheap and thin internal wires


Like the little springs in the HD650 drivers that the plugs click into. Very thin but not really standard wire either.
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 6:59 AM Post #15,048 of 16,305
Yes! But even more surprisingly...expensive headphones that were made to be top contender in the segments.....HD800 is just one example...see ? $1500 MSRP back then...now is like 1K. I am sure 800S has the same cheap wires

What surprise me is the cost of the wires Ratio vs the headphones cost in a whole....1K and using 10 cents worth of wires is unacceptable. It would be nice if they did $100 worth of wires and charge $1600 instead

Here is some very money worthy adapters from 3.5mm Mono female into XLR 3 males :D



They were made to feed my WM1Z balanced out into large stereo at home

 
Dec 6, 2016 at 6:14 PM Post #15,049 of 16,305
Hello friends, I wanted to share a cable I made for a fellow Head-fi'er over on the Home Made-IEM forum. I'm most pleased with how the male MMCX connectors came out, I used UV resin to make the connectors, 28awg Silver Plated Occ Wire, cool boots I got in bulk from eBay. Anyways all done DIY.


Hey Shiloh!  I rarely stray from the DIY CIEM thread, but I'm glad I did because I LOVE these!  I've been thinking about making cable ends with Fotoplast but just haven't tried it yet.  How did you go about this?  Your the Man! 
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 7:21 PM Post #15,052 of 16,305
audiofreakie what kind of wire is that.... Looks nice!

Its silver plated copper 99.9999.

I even use it to replace my USB to USB Type C smartphone charger.
It's good wire with good conductor.
My smartphone get high current rate than standart usb wire.
I modified it to L shaved, can used as charging cable or data/sync cable.

 
Dec 6, 2016 at 8:43 PM Post #15,053 of 16,305
That is awesome man. I have some copper litz wire that is the same size about, i think i should try a braid of over a dozen wires too 
beerchug.gif
 and that usb cable looks awesome :D
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 12:02 AM Post #15,056 of 16,305
Is tinning litz wire anything like tinning the enamel-coated conductors of stock cables?  I just crank up the heat to near max on my Hakko936 and work very quickly.  Paste flux ensures that I tin stuff quick and easy.
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 12:31 AM Post #15,058 of 16,305
  Is tinning litz wire anything like tinning the enamel-coated conductors of stock cables?  I just crank up the heat to near max on my Hakko936 and work very quickly.  Paste flux ensures that I tin stuff quick and easy.

Yup I do about 700 F on my Hakko 888 and no issues here. The only issue is litz is individual strand shielded, so if you just strip the outer coating, it won't conduct. It seems like when I'm doing it, after putting some flux on, It likes to be tinned with what's on the iron tip as the heat melts the protective coating on each strand.
 
To answer you question more briefly, it's similar to tinning the enamel coated conductors but a little more of a pain. A plain wire is far easier! Paste flux is a great idea. Makes the job far easier. i just use liquid flux but I finally got some paste flux in an order I just received of mostly 3.5mm connectors.
 
 
  Guys, I am about to recable some of my earbuds, and I wanted to ask is it better to braid the cable then solder it to the jack or is it better to solder the cable to the jack then braid it?

Actually what I do is clamp one end to a table or tape it down, and braid it, then strip the wire on either ends and tin it, then apply it to whatever I am trying to.  The amount you clamp to the table will be more than enough to connect to either the driver or connector.    You could solder to either device and then braid it, but you'd still have to hold the wire down somewhere when braiding it, and would be putting stress on whatever you solder it to.
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 1:54 AM Post #15,059 of 16,305
I am trying to steal some ideas from De'mun cable. I own this exact earbud, although it's not my picture. Does that look like heatshrink on the upper part,  that isn't the cloth below the Y split?
 

 
Dec 7, 2016 at 3:29 AM Post #15,060 of 16,305
  Yup I do about 700 F on my Hakko 888 and no issues here. The only issue is litz is individual strand shielded, so if you just strip the outer coating, it won't conduct. It seems like when I'm doing it, after putting some flux on, It likes to be tinned with what's on the iron tip as the heat melts the protective coating on each strand.
 
To answer you question more briefly, it's similar to tinning the enamel coated conductors but a little more of a pain. A plain wire is far easier! Paste flux is a great idea. Makes the job far easier. i just use liquid flux but I finally got some paste flux in an order I just received of mostly 3.5mm connectors.
 
 
Actually what I do is clamp one end to a table or tape it down, and braid it, then strip the wire on either ends and tin it, then apply it to whatever I am trying to.  The amount you clamp to the table will be more than enough to connect to either the driver or connector.    You could solder to either device and then braid it, but you'd still have to hold the wire down somewhere when braiding it, and would be putting stress on whatever you solder it to.

 
I started off with liquid flux.  Tried paste flux and never touched liquid flux again.  It suits my style in every situation so far, whether cable-building or modding/repairing DACs/ADCs/amplifiers.  Clean up with alcohol and swabs afterward.
 

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