DIY Cable Gallery!!
Apr 19, 2016 at 3:43 PM Post #14,868 of 16,236

GreatestUnKnown

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Yet another Recabling. this time HD429
 
http://imgur.com/a/rRUZC
 

Nicely done, single entry cans make our jobs easier when recabling by hiding the split.
 
Gathering some parts to do a recable myself of some single entry cans I just need to decide on if I want the job to be a universal (able to use on multiple headphones) or tailored specifically for the DT 1770s.
 
Apr 22, 2016 at 1:38 PM Post #14,870 of 16,236

peterinvan

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Balanced cable for Oppo PM-3

I made up a balanced cable using Canare L-4E5C microphone cable and the special "extended" TRRS plug from EIDOLIC (sourced from Double Helix Cables)...

http://www.doublehelixcables.com


On my "balanced" CEntrance M8 I could not hear any difference between the Oppo stock cable (the straight TRS one) and the Canare 4-Pin XLR.

Other fully balanced amps may be an improvement... anyone able to comment?




 
Apr 23, 2016 at 2:10 PM Post #14,871 of 16,236

Benny-x

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Balanced cable for Oppo PM-3

I made up a balanced cable using Canare L-4E5C microphone cable and the special "extended" TRRS plug from EIDOLIC (sourced from Double Helix Cables)...

http://www.doublehelixcables.com


On my "balanced" CEntrance M8 I could not hear any difference between the Oppo stock cable (the straight TRS one) and the Canare 4-Pin XLR.

Other fully balanced amps may be an improvement... anyone able to comment?





Congrats on the good work.
 
I'm looking at doing almost exactly this right now. How flush does the flat base of the 3.5mm TRRS fit against the cup of the PM-3? After getting the PM-3 3 days ago I'm sure the Eidolic with the extended part will fit into the recessed socket, but I'm hoping the base of the barrel fits nearly flush as to give it a nice look. I hope there's not much gap, but I can't tell from your pic. 
 
Do you know what I mean?
 
And let's hope that another source works better for the balanced PM-3s. For my own sake as well.
 
Apr 23, 2016 at 2:29 PM Post #14,872 of 16,236

peterinvan

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... How flush does the flat base of the 3.5mm TRRS fit against the cup of the PM-3? After getting the PM-3 3 days ago I'm sure the Eidolic with the extended part will fit into the recessed socket, but I'm hoping the base of the barrel fits nearly flush as to give it a nice look.


Not quite flush, but not really noticeable.
 
Apr 23, 2016 at 2:37 PM Post #14,873 of 16,236

Benny-x

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Not quite flush, but not really noticeable.

Thanks for the pic, that's awesome of you.
 
I never noticed before, but the smaller oval part of the cups that the connector goes in is ever so slightly angled as it goes to the bigger, base oval that the earpads connect to. So it's probably a very, very good thing that it doesn't fit flush, as it wouldn't be able to at all due to the angle, and if too close it'd bring up on one side and not the other. 
 
The Eidolic 3.5mm TRRS is probably a go for me now. Unless anyone can recommend a good TRRS connector that'd fit a recessed 3.5mm socket?
 
Apr 23, 2016 at 4:26 PM Post #14,874 of 16,236

WMah

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First foray into DIY, bought a bunch of parts a while ago but didn't have a good soldering iron. Finally picked up a hakko 888 and the smaller tips def makes a big diff! Still a lot of stuff to learn, esp how much heatshrink is needed for certain areas. The sennheiser cable was pretty butchered as far as that goes, with 1 area by the headphone connections wherethe second heatshrink didn't overlap causing a potential stress point. did a much better job with the TF10 cable but i likely went a bit overkill w/ heatshrink that time to ensure everything is secure.
 
With more experience i think would be able to measure out exactly how much paracord i need for a certain length of wire as well as how much heatshrink is needed. 
 
EDIT: So there was zero foresight going into to this build... I totally didn't consider the color of the TF10s prior to going with the black and red nylon. The combo is ugly as sin 
eek.gif

 

 

 

 
Apr 25, 2016 at 1:38 AM Post #14,877 of 16,236

WMah

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i cannot for the life of me keep stranded wires twisted in pairs no matter how tight i twist. they have zero memory effect and would simply unravel. I would like to know how you guys are able to keep them in twisted pairs even after sleeving with paracord! because i wasn't able to keep my wires twisted i ended up just sleeving them in straight parallel pairs :frowning2:
 
Apr 25, 2016 at 6:41 AM Post #14,878 of 16,236

ai03

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i cannot for the life of me keep stranded wires twisted in pairs no matter how tight i twist. they have zero memory effect and would simply unravel. I would like to know how you guys are able to keep them in twisted pairs even after sleeving with paracord! because i wasn't able to keep my wires twisted i ended up just sleeving them in straight parallel pairs :frowning2:


In my case, I overtwist the wires, since they will naturally untwist over time. Twist the wires more than needed, and solder on the connectors while the wires are kept twisted. The connectors should prevent most untwisting.
 
Apr 25, 2016 at 8:35 AM Post #14,879 of 16,236

Wfanning1

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In my case, I overtwist the wires, since they will naturally untwist over time. Twist the wires more than needed, and solder on the connectors while the wires are kept twisted. The connectors should prevent most untwisting.
To add upon what was already said, i personally use a cordless drill to do the twisting for me but be sure to use a variable speed drill or you will find yourself over twisting and knotting up your wire!
By using the drill, you can make the twist very symmetrical and if it gets twisted 50 times, upon removal of the wire from the dtill, it may untwist a few times then stay twisted for good!

Hope it makes sense? If you need to know how to out the wire in the drill let me know!
 
Apr 25, 2016 at 1:23 PM Post #14,880 of 16,236

Armaegis

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Please guys, a drill is not the way to do it. You're inducing a ton of stresses into the wires which is what makes them want to untwist. You have to let the wires hang loosely and manually loop them over and around each other. The individual wires to not actually "twist", rather they run a helical pattern around each other.
 

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