DIY Cable Gallery!!
May 21, 2014 at 7:13 AM Post #13,667 of 16,305
@elmoe, have a look.

http://robrobinette.com/Push-Pull_Vs_Single-Ended_and_Balanced_Vs_Unbalanced.htm

 
Thanks, that's an interesting article and it seems to follow what I understood:
 
 A 4 wire balanced line rejects RFI and radio magnetic interference (RMI) naturally due to each stereo channel's two equal length and gauge wires both picking up the same electrical noise--one wire is positive and the other is negative so when the signal from the two wires is combined at the speaker the added noise cancels itself out. This is called CMR or Common Mode Rejection. Adding a grounded shield to a balanced line will offer even more noise reduction.

 
So it seems that if you want the best possible balanced cable for noise reduction, grounding the shield to the shell is a good idea? Or did I not understand this properly? I reckon most cable makers will stick with CMR (L-, R- only) but there are advantages to also adding the shield as ground?
 
May 21, 2014 at 7:23 AM Post #13,668 of 16,305
I've never experienced a problem with cable related noise. In certain environments such shielding is probably 100% necessary, but I'm not sure the extra precautions are necessary for most household setups.

I greatly prefer the reduction in weight and size by not using the shield.
 
May 21, 2014 at 12:12 PM Post #13,669 of 16,305
The shield isn't a ground it is grounded to earth through the drain wire (the shield itself if no wire is present). This allows any intervene to dissipait to an earth ground. It has nothing to do with the signal going to the headphones.

Most xlr connectors for headphone use probably aren't attached to any earth ground.

With high level signals like a headphone signal the amount of interference necessary to create noise is very high.
 
May 21, 2014 at 5:41 PM Post #13,670 of 16,305
A few things:
 
In a balanced cable with no shields, there's no provision for using the shield connection.  In a single ended cable, the shield can be connected to the ground on the source end of the cable, obviously you don't want to connect the shield on both end, as then it would literally be part of the ground wire.  I've seen balanced cables that are just a braid of three wires - +, -, ground and rather than shielding from interference that the cable might pick up, it simply grounds the amp to the DAC. A tubular shield braid covering the cable does that, but also blocks incoming noise.  
 
4 pin XLR headphone cables, there's simply no pin for ground.  The cable's shields, if they exist, connect to the ground tab of the 4 pin XLR which interfaces with the shell of the 4 pin XLR.  The metal shell of the 4 pin XLR jack on the amp is grounded; same functionality as a 3 pin XLR, assuming the amp is set up properly.  
 
Rean is a division of Neutrik AG: http://www.rean-connectors.com/
 
I think everyone's favorite Neutrik plugs were originally Neutrik branded 3.5mm, then they went to being Rean branded.  Rean is Neutrik's budget division, often the plugs have the prefix "NYS" in their model number.  There's a few 1/4" plugs, 3.5mm plugs, and RCAs in the Rean lineup, as well as mini XLRs.  Reans are more budget-quality than Neutrik products such as their NC3 XLRs, which are made in Liechtenstein rather than China like Reans.  
 
May 21, 2014 at 6:03 PM Post #13,672 of 16,305
For the same money, I strongly prefer Amphenol mini XLR.  In the $1 range for mini plugs, there aren't a lot of options.  It takes a little experience to use the Neutrik mini without causing shorts, I don't recommend them for beginners, that is for sure.  It doesn't hurt to heatshrink the left/right solder tabs, then one should be okay.
 
May 21, 2014 at 6:26 PM Post #13,673 of 16,305
I really like the plastic internal of Neutrik 1/8" right angle connectors. 
 
Amphenol is also a favorite of mine, their 1/8" connectors are really sharp looking, I wish they could incorporate a proper cable clamp instead of the mediocre jacket crimp.
 
May 21, 2014 at 11:46 PM Post #13,674 of 16,305
i think this thread is for gallery
 
my black m2m and custom cable for my dbe hp30 modded detachable.
1376648_10201932194526069_1810450365619767117_n.jpg

 
May 24, 2014 at 1:24 AM Post #13,678 of 16,305
Spent some time making some cables this afternoon. Built four 1/4" TRS(m) to XLR4(f) adapters. Three for others and one for me. I also finished up the set of 3 cables for my modified Beyer T70, now I have a 3m 1/4" TRS(m), 3m XLR4(m), and a 1.25m (R/A) 1/8" TRS(m). Portable, single ended, and balanced ready to go.
 
I used Neutrik NC4FXX-B and NP3X-B terminated Mogami W2893 with Techflex 3/16" Nylon Multifilament. 12" for the three, and 18" for mine.
 
The T70 cables are Lemo FGG.304.CLAD42Z connectors with Cooner cable 6*26 shielded. The source ends are Neutrik NC4FXX-B, NP3X-B, and NTP3RC-B.
 
I'm expecting two more HD650 cables from Sennheiser to make the same 1.25m 1/8" TRS(m) and 3m XLR4(m) variants, torn on putting a NP3X-B on the cable that came with my HD650s but I think I'll wait until the plating wears off.
 

 

 
May 24, 2014 at 3:04 AM Post #13,679 of 16,305
  Spent some time making some cables this afternoon. Built four 1/4" TRS(m) to XLR4(f) adapters. Three for others and one for me. I also finished up the set of 3 cables for my modified Beyer T70, now I have a 3m 1/4" TRS(m), 3m XLR4(m), and a 1.25m (R/A) 1/8" TRS(m). Portable, single ended, and balanced ready to go.
 
I used Neutrik NC4FXX-B and NP3X-B terminated Mogami W2893 with Techflex 3/16" Nylon Multifilament. 12" for the three, and 18" for mine.
 
The T70 cables are Lemo FGG.304.CLAD42Z connectors with Cooner cable 6*26 shielded. The source ends are Neutrik NC4FXX-B, NP3X-B, and NTP3RC-B.
 
I'm expecting two more HD650 cables from Sennheiser to make the same 1.25m 1/8" TRS(m) and 3m XLR4(m) variants, torn on putting a NP3X-B on the cable that came with my HD650s but I think I'll wait until the plating wears off.
 

 

nice work. love the colored rings on the neutrik balanced plugs...
 
May 24, 2014 at 2:59 PM Post #13,680 of 16,305
More of a Hack & Slash than a DIY...
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I took the thick oyaide cabled L8, which is nicer that the ones shipped with X3/E12/E17 etc...
Chopped the other end and added a Pailiccs plug as a little extension for use with my leather case on the X3.
 

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