Discovery: Cleaning Flux off PCBs

Apr 30, 2007 at 9:22 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 10

colonelkernel8

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Well, I recently discovered the best way to clean PCB boards if you do not have access to the 99% pure alcohol that tangent recommends. All you need is drugstore grade 80%-90% alcohol and ammonia (the stuff for cleaning). Just follow tangents recommendation with using the alcohol and the tooth brush and let it dry. You'll notice the white residue the alcohol leaves behind. At this point, dip the toothbrush in a little ammonia (only get a small amount on the brush) and follow the same process. Ammonia will take a little longer to dry so you should follow up by dabbing it with a paper towel.

This will leave your boards perfectly clean.
 
Apr 30, 2007 at 10:10 PM Post #2 of 10
Anhydrous Ammonia, even at the diluted strength of household cleaner, is highly reactive. Reactivity is particularly strong against metals, especially copper. In the future, you should probably stick to established DIY/electronics good practices before grabbing a bottle from underneath the sink on a whim.

The white stuff is simply dried dissolved rosin, and an indication that your rinsing was incomplete. Rubbing alcohol is available in the 91% percent strength at any Walmart or drugstore, is only pennies more than the basic 80% variety, and is quite adequate for DIY electronics work. As you have noticed, several rinses may be necessary to completely remove rosin flux from a PC board - but shortcutting that process with something else may be worse.
 
May 3, 2007 at 8:15 PM Post #8 of 10
Whether 99.x% pure alcohol is important or necessary has a lot to do with what's on the part you'd clean. Depending on method it isn't very important. If your assembly order leaves off certain parts like pots and non-sealed trimmers until after cleaning, you can use lesser % alcohol.

As already mentioned, having a haze is usually just a sign it wasn't rinsed, or rinsed enough. Even with nearly pure alcohol I like to leave some parts off so it is no problem rinsing, even immersing parts. Sometimes when working with aged gear as with repairs, I find it helpful to put a bit of detergent on a toothbrush (or paintbrush for hard to access areas) to clean up other areas, then I rinse that with water (when the populated parts allow for this) then shake off excess and a final rinse with alcohol.

You could of course use only alcohol but I find water cheaper and more abundant. In a pinch I've also used water for final rinse and never had a problem doing so, but when I do that I shake off excess and leave parts drying for a day or more.

Whether flux can be left on depends on factors like how active it is, where it is, and depending on the flux, how humid the environment. Generally speaking the more active the flux the more important to remove it. Taking a popular brand and type, Kester 44 should be removed, ideally, though you're in no rush to do it right after soldering or even the same day like you would if using the wrong solder or flux (with acid in it).

More gentle fluxes like RMA or no-clean can usually be left on without issue, and they are harder to clean off. RMA gets harder but can still be removed with alcohol while no-clean should only be used if you will leave it on (but it's virtually clear, if you are THAT picky about your solder joints it may be more of a vanity issue than audio electronics issue).

Leaving on some fluxes will erode the metal a little depending on how active they are and how fluid they remain. Fairly active rosin fluxes are hygroscopic and the longer they sit, the more moisture absorbed from the air, the more gummy they become. At some point if it becomes too gummy, fluid, and thus more active, it can become more conductive. Many people never have the problem later if they didn't clean it off but it is possible.
 
May 3, 2007 at 9:48 PM Post #9 of 10
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The white stuff is simply dried dissolved rosin, and an indication that your rinsing was incomplete. Rubbing alcohol is available in the 91% percent strength at any Walmart or drugstore, is only pennies more than the basic 80% variety, and is quite adequate for DIY electronics work.



Check the bottle - iirc these are exactly the same thing. One measured by weight, the other by volume.
 
May 4, 2007 at 12:03 AM Post #10 of 10
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Check the bottle - iirc these are exactly the same thing. One measured by weight, the other by volume.


Nope - both by volume where I live. They are offered as alternate choices on the same shelf at different prices. Sort of hard to confuse anything other than that they are different.
 

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