[rayg]

I can't thank you enough for this thread, FallenAngel.

I have not touched a soldering iron since HS Electonics workshop 30 years ago, when I did build a transistor radio, and amp and a linear regulated PSU.

I was off this past week, and got my feet wet making some interconnects with mogami 2549. Luckily, I have easy access to Redco locally and can pick up materials as needed.

I've never recabled headphones, so the next day, I did a trial recable with an inexpensive pair of Superlux HD 681's with mogami 2534, converting it to dual entry. Amazing cans for the price, BTW.

Yesterday, I tackled the main project that all the practice was for: recabling my D2000's. I really hate the stock cable on these. I just used mogami 2534, and it was a breeze, thanks to your instructional. The hardest part was getting the earpads on and off! Thanks, man.

 

[ShinyFalcon]

Ah, I was looking for this thread! Yep, looking at these pictures, these are definitely easier to recable than the D1001.

 

[Silenced]

what type of wood was used for the cups. Thanks for posting this guide !

 

[MikeW]

I plan to recable my D2000's with mogami 2534 soon, any impressions on how the sound changed with the upgraded cable?

 

[g5tar]

You mentioned using a DMM to test the polarity- can someone explain how to do this (I've been searching for a while and can't seem to find an answer, just get more confused)

Great thread, can't believe it didn't get more attention.

 

[amcananey]

OK, dumb question: after doing the above, are the headphones balanced? I assume the answer is yes. I'm just wondering: you're only using two of the three pins in the XLR, right? What is the third pin for if it isn't being used?
 
I also have a related question. On this page from the Audio Gd website, they show a pair of Denon headphones being reterminated so that they can be used with the 4-pin jack on the front of their balanced amps, such as this one. Is there any reason why FallenAngel's modified cans terminate in two separate 3-pin XLR connectors, whereas the Audio Gd website shows the Denons terminating in a single 4-pin connector? Will the Denons be fully balanced after the Audio Gd modification (when not used with the 1/4" adapter)?
 
Am I missing something or does this mean that converting Denon's to balanced headphones is a piece of cake?
 
Thanks for your advice.
Adam

 

[FallenAngel]

Yes, those are balanced.  The shield is not used (pin 1) for headphone cables.
 
Most gear uses dual 3-pin XLRs, some gear uses a single 4-pin XLR, both are balanced.  Personally, I prefer 4-pin - it's smaller, lighter and takes less space on the amp.
 
You aren't missing anything, converting ALMOST ALL headphones to balanced is a piece of cake.

 

[amcananey]

Sweet! I am positively astounded. I thought there was lots of voodoo involved!
 
Out of curiosity, do you happen to know whether Ultrasone PRO 900s also have two wires running to each cup? I know they are single-entry, but after entry do 2 wires go to one ear and two wires go through the headband to the second cup? I assume yes.
 
Also, any ideas on where to get those 4-PIN XLRs that are shown on the Audio Gd website I linked to (other than from Audio Gd themselves)?
 
Regards,
Adam

 

[FallenAngel]

They are single entry with TRS connector (3 wires).  I also recommend against modding PRO900, I had fun fixing them, and Ultrasone does not sell drivers.
 
You can buy 4-pin XLR connectors just about anywhere.

 

[amcananey]

FallenAngel,
 
I've now got the 4-pin XLR connectors and I'm going to have a go at this tonight. I plan on recabling my Denon AH-D2000 as described on this Audio Gd website. My only question is: [size=11pt]how do you tell which black wire is "L-" and which wire is "R-"? Does it matter?[/size]
 
[size=11pt]Also, any experience recabling Shure SRH840s? These are also single-entry. I assume they are like the Ultrasones, better left alone?[/size]
 
Best regards,
Adam

 

[FallenAngel]

Yes, it matters - easy way to tell is to measure resistance from L+ / R+ to determine which wires are which.
No experience with SRH840 aside from listening.  All headphones that have detachable cables with TRS connectors are a little harder to work with - you need to remove that connector and run the wires directly (or replace with a small 4-pin XLR jack).

 

[amcananey]

Errrr....sorry for being a dunce, but how do I measure resistance from L+ / R+? I assume I need a multimeter? But what do I do and what should the dial in the center of the multimeter be set to?
 
Thanks!
Adam

 

[FallenAngel]

Yes, you do need a multimeter (or ohmmeter) - you measure resistance (in Ohms).  When you have a connected pair (L- and L+ or R- and R+), you'll some resistance between the wires (the impedance of the driver), otherwise, you'll see infinite resistance.

 

[amcananey]

Thanks!

 

[Totally Dubbed]

I know this is an old thread - But I'll bump it + save it in my list of threads.
Excellent guide - still not quite sure fi i should mod mine or not.
 
Out of interest is it reversible, ie. re-soldering the stock cable? For warranty purposes for example?
 
I want to put a shorted D7K cable, which in it self will also be terminated differently.
So:
D7k cable, shortened to around 1.5m & a 3.5mm jack termination.