FallenAngel
Headphoneus Supremus
Hey guys,
I am recabling a pair of headphones for somebody on the forum so I decided that it might be useful to post a guide. For this recable I'm using a pair of freshly modded Denon D2000.
Mods were preformed by the master himself, MarkL; and the job look wonderful (compared to the amount of time I spent trying to mod my own D2000 and having the mods turn out functional but not very nice looking - reason why I bought the D5000 modden by MarkL, he does awesome work). He also offers wood cups for the D2000 which were also installed during this recable.
The cable I am using today is 22awg Jena wire, terminated in Neutrik XLRs.
Without further ado, the guide.
1) Disassemble the headphones.

2) Desolder original wire

3) Solder new wires

4) Braid the wire


5) Termination

6) Install the cups

All done
I also made an XLR to 1/4" adapter in the photo for unbalanced use.

Hope you enjoyed it, was tons of fun to do. Oh yeah, they sound very VERY good.
I am recabling a pair of headphones for somebody on the forum so I decided that it might be useful to post a guide. For this recable I'm using a pair of freshly modded Denon D2000.
Mods were preformed by the master himself, MarkL; and the job look wonderful (compared to the amount of time I spent trying to mod my own D2000 and having the mods turn out functional but not very nice looking - reason why I bought the D5000 modden by MarkL, he does awesome work). He also offers wood cups for the D2000 which were also installed during this recable.
The cable I am using today is 22awg Jena wire, terminated in Neutrik XLRs.
Without further ado, the guide.
1) Disassemble the headphones.
- Give the earpads a slight twist until you hear a click, then pull off.
- Unscrew the 4 deep-seated screws to release the cup, then pull it off.
- If it is not already marked, use a DMM and measure resistance between the Left/Right signal on the headphone plug and mark a little red dot on the driver so you can identify signal vs ground later.
- You can at this time unscrew the other 4 screws that hold the driver to the headband (not done in the photo).

2) Desolder original wire
- I say again, make sure to mark + signal on the driver for later!
- Desolder the two thin wires from the drivers; make sure you don't keep the iron on the driver for too long, they burn up otherwise.
- Once wires are detached, loosen the knot and pull it out.
- If not done already, unscrew the driver from the headband.

3) Solder new wires
- I use 4 individual wires so this step is simplifier vs a ready-made cable like Mogami 2534, Cardas 4x24, etc.
- Feed the wires through the original hole.
- Solder on your new wires. Again, be careful not to use too much heat. For this reason I use Cardas Quad-Eutectic solder, it has a very low melting point so I can set my iron to 650F, solder the wires and have it solidify nice and shiny.
- For strain relief, I used a simple zip-tie. Cheap and very effective. You can use a bit of hot glue or epoxy, I saw no need in this case.

4) Braid the wire
- For this step, I attach the drivers back to the headband to make it easier
- I then put the headphones on my head and twist the wires from the driver in opposite direction and because I'm obsessive, I make sure there is an equal number of twists and they are at equal intervals.
- Wearing the headphones during this makes it easy to judge how long you want the Y-split to be.
- After the cable is twisted, put the headphones on the table and braid the wires.
- Since this is Jena wire, I use the same braiding style as Jena uses on all of their cables, it looks nice.


5) Termination
- This is when marking the driver makes sense. Measure resistance back to the driver and identify the wires.
- These headphones are terminated in balanced 3-pin XLR, so I split the wires up and twist them again in pairs.
- Solder on your connector(s); 3-pin XLR uses pin 2 for +, pin 3 for -.
- Double check to make sure everything is wired properly, you don't want to have to open the headphones later for this.

6) Install the cups
- This can be tricky, even when you try to align as perfectly as you can, but here's a hint - It was a lot easier to do with the drivers not attached to the headband.

All done

I also made an XLR to 1/4" adapter in the photo for unbalanced use.

Hope you enjoyed it, was tons of fun to do. Oh yeah, they sound very VERY good.
