I just ordered a couple of those and an adapter. There’s too much to buy and test and play with in this hobby.So, this GEC that I missed today.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6080-TUBE-...438129?hash=item3b54b85971:g:FzsAAOSwy8Vf8bG4
Have you never thought of using the GEC CV4079?
It's cheap and they're saying it's better than the GEC 6080.
Only you need an adapter.
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Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII
- Thread starter HeatFan12
- Start date
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
Scored a pair of Tung Sol 5998 for 150$
Sweet! That's a great deal for a pair. Hope they're in tip-top shape -- they certainly look nice.
Yeah, that's a crazy good price for two. I paid $180 for my single 5998. Worth it though.Sweet! That's a great deal for a pair. Hope they're in tip-top shape -- they certainly look nice.
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
I just ordered a couple of those and an adapter. There’s too much to buy and test and play with in this hobby.
The one good thing about this particular rabbit hole is that it's plenty big enough for more residents. We get together and play Bingo every night at 7:00, just in case you missed that during orientation.
As long as I'm in bed by 8 so I can watch Matlock.The one good thing about this particular rabbit hole is that it's plenty big enough for more residents. We get together and play Bingo every night at 7:00, just in case you missed that during orientation.
Hey, uh... this offer still on the table? I tried and failed.@DeweyCH Pretty much this, and any three of us would be happy to do it for ya if your not able..
Can I ask what the voltage and amperage ratings are for that? Is it 2-4 volts DC and 100mA? And if so, would any voltage rating in that 2-4 VDC range work? I'd like to find an illuminated push-button switch if possible. No clue why, just do.
FYI I received the stepped attenuator you linked earlier this weekend. May or may not try installing it at some point; wanna do a power switch first and maybe then dick around with yet another volume controller. Should be way, way, way easier this time around (knocks on head). Arrived with the volume knob - same seller.I want to hear if offers any improvements over the alps. I’ve heard very good things about them and that they sound as good as the goldpoint it copies. I’ve read that the Noble pot from England is an upgrade from the Alps but it costs a good amount more. Many have said that they think this stepped attenuator bests the Noble. Most attenuators won’t fit in the DV.
Would something like this work?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000375272251.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.2.5e229087JbTVkt
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000375272251.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.2.5e229087JbTVkt
bcowen
Headphoneus Supremus
Would something like this work?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000375272251.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000023.2.5e229087JbTVkt
This switch is switching your AC power. The power from your AC outlet flows through this switch and then to the amp's transformer. So what's important here is the AC voltage rating and the AC current (amp) rating. My DV has "Use 1 amp fuse" silkscreened on the chassis, yet a 3 amp fuse is installed (and the spare fuse is also 3 amp). Don't know if the 3 amp fuse was installed/supplied by mistake, or whether something changed in the design making the 3 amp fuse necessary and they just didn't change the silkscreening on the amp chassis.
So you need to look for a switch that is rated for 120 volts AC (or more), and if it were me I'd be looking for a switch that was rated for 4 amps AC (or more). If an internal fault develops in the amp, you want that fuse to blow before you exceed what the switch is rated for. The one you linked has different voltage values available, but doesn't specify whether that's AC or DC voltage, and shows a 3 amp rating, but again doesn't specify whether that is AC or DC. When it comes to a power switch, my advice is to get a quality switch that is UL and/or CE listed (preferably both) with a 120v (or higher) and 4 amp (or higher) AC rating. This is not something to try and save a few bucks on IMO, as an underrated switch can lead to some serious problems.
Voltage-wise, more than 120 is OK? There seems to be more options at the 125 VAC level on Mouser, at least.This switch is switching your AC power. The power from your AC outlet flows through this switch and then to the amp's transformer. So what's important here is the AC voltage rating and the AC current (amp) rating. My DV has "Use 1 amp fuse" silkscreened on the chassis, yet a 3 amp fuse is installed (and the spare fuse is also 3 amp). Don't know if the 3 amp fuse was installed/supplied by mistake, or whether something changed in the design making the 3 amp fuse necessary and they just didn't change the silkscreening on the amp chassis.
So you need to look for a switch that is rated for 120 volts AC (or more), and if it were me I'd be looking for a switch that was rated for 4 amps AC (or more). If an internal fault develops in the amp, you want that fuse to blow before you exceed what the switch is rated for. The one you linked has different voltage values available, but doesn't specify whether that's AC or DC voltage, and shows a 3 amp rating, but again doesn't specify whether that is AC or DC. When it comes to a power switch, my advice is to get a quality switch that is UL and/or CE listed (preferably both) with a 120v (or higher) and 4 amp (or higher) AC rating. This is not something to try and save a few bucks on IMO, as an underrated switch can lead to some serious problems.
wideload
Head-Fier
If I”m not in bed by 8, I go home!As long as I'm in bed by 8 so I can watch Matlock.
JKDJedi
Headphoneus Supremus
Nice score!!!Scored a pair of Tung Sol 5998 for 150$
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