Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII
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ggillies

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JKDJedi

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I have not tried that particular tube. I'd be interested to find out if anyone here has tried both the Tung-Sol and the Sylvania 7236. Any opinions???
I might be out of the country by the time the Sylvania gets here, super anxious for this one. I'll keep ya guys posted if it gets here before I leave.
 
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JKDJedi

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Co u ld we or should we be able to connect a CD Player, Turntable directly to the Darkvoice, just curious.
 
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sennfan83261

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Co u ld we or should we be able to connect a CD Player, Turntable directly to the Darkvoice, just curious.
I don't see why not. They are sources like your standalone DAC. Your CD player has a DAC. Your turntable outputs should be fine too (see below). (NB: Not my rig)

 
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Amish

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Co u ld we or should we be able to connect a CD Player, Turntable directly to the Darkvoice, just curious.
You betcha.
 
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post-15039359
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Keno18

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Co u ld we or should we be able to connect a CD Player, Turntable directly to the Darkvoice, just curious.
A turntable with a magnetic cartridge would require a phono preamp if the turntable doesn't have one built-in.
 
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Keno18

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Picked up a backup Tung-Sol 7236 tonight. One is not enough.:wink:
 
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sennfan83261

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Listening to what appears to be a Sylvania 6SN7GT (beige-lettering on its base, weird) with either a Tung-Sol 7236 (white-lettering) or a RCA 6AS7G (silver-lettering, 4-09 date code) as the power tube. Mid-size bottle having 939 and J8A as its date codes, so it appears to be from 1949 (39th week). Looking at its getter, one could think that it is a chrome-dome, but that appellation is usually reserved for early '50s 6SN7GT's. Don't care, as I took a flyer on this untested tube and got it for cheap. As for its sound, this tube has a pretty impressive soundstage and is slightly crisper sounding than the smoother-sounding '54 Sylvania 6SN7GTA I have.


 
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JKDJedi

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Listening to what appears to be a Sylvania 6SN7GT (beige-lettering on its base, weird) with either a Tung-Sol 7236 (white-lettering) or a RCA 6AS7G (silver-lettering, 4-09 date code) as the power tube. Mid-size bottle having 939 and J8A as its date codes, so it appears to be from 1949 (39th week). Looking at its getter, one could think that it is a chrome-dome, but that appellation is usually reserved for early '50s 6SN7GT's. Don't care, as I took a flyer on this untested tube and got it for cheap. As for its sound, this tube has a pretty impressive soundstage and is slightly crisper sounding than the smoother-sounding '54 Sylvania 6SN7GTA I have.


That could be 1959 (9 is underscored in the pic) 39th week, and looks to be a nice find. Rare to see the chrome come down that far at least for me. and I'm seeing other Sylvania codes dated 939 as 1949... wow you might have an early sample of the "Chrome Dome"..which yeah started in the early 50's (catching up on some reading ) Does this tube fully light up top to bottom?
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-6sn7-identification-guide.209782/
 
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sennfan83261

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That could be 1959 (9 is underscored in the pic) 39th week, and looks to be a nice find. Rare to see the chrome come down that far at least for me. and I'm seeing other Sylvania codes dated 939 as 1949... wow you might have an early sample of the "Chrome Dome"..which yeah started in the early 50's (catching up on some reading ) Does this tube fully light up top to bottom?
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-6sn7-identification-guide.209782/
The problem with the 1959 theory is that apparently Sylvania phased out 6SN7GT's by 1953 or 1954 (I initially thought it was '59 too until I did some digging):

http://vintagetubeservices.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Octal_Tubes_March_2018.pdf
https://www.tubeworld.com/6sn7.htm#sylgt

As for their lighting, the top is completely obscured by the getter and only the lit up bottom portions of the two heater filaments are visible. So far, these T-plate 6SN7GT's are very clear sounding with really good bass extension. Probably the best $10 I've spent on a tube so far. I should compare these to a few Sylvania VT-231's I have.
 
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Its been two weeks since I've been running the DV. Everything's burned in and I'm really happy with the sound. The DV truly beats the Vali 2 even with both running a 6sn7gt mouse ears. Instrument separation is clearly audible with complex high frequency passages that the Vali just presents as a fog of conjested sound. Overall dynamics have an effortless quality where the Vali feels like it runs out of steam. Glad I made the purchase.
 
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And with all that my NOS tube I just got in has the hum...LMAO... well the positive note on NOS tubes with hum is that you know your popping its cherry! Burn in time for my spanking brand new Westinghouse 1957 D getter 6SN7GTB (left), I'm told it's miles ahead of the 60's halo getter version (right) so really anxious here, (oddly the 60's version had no hum when I got it) So we'll see.. ..
You were right about the RCA Gray Glass. I'm gonna ride your streak and try a Westinghouse NOS. Hope its a good bank for the buck as I've heard.
 
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Keno18

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To anyone who has done the Fitz mod: Have you noticed any changes to the sound quality of the DV besides the hum being gone? Brighter, darker, more pronounced frequency over another? I've read from one source that the mod changes the sound. I'm thinking of making the change myself and want to know what to expect. Thanks in advance.
 
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sennfan83261

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To anyone who has done the Fitz mod: Have you noticed any changes to the sound quality of the DV besides the hum being gone? Brighter, darker, more pronounced frequency over another? I've read from one source that the mod changes the sound. I'm thinking of making the change myself and want to know what to expect. Thanks in advance.
Outside of volume gain, I can't tell whether the sound changed on mine using 220uF caps. People here mentioned that using caps having a capacitance less than 220uF (typically those using 100uF caps) will experience bass roll-off. I used two 220uF Nicohicon FG caps (you can use KZ too). The problem with the volume gain is that it lowers the listenable volume range. For me, the bottom of the volume range is pretty close to the threshold where channel imbalance kicks in (sound comes out of one side more than the other, tested on mono tracks to confirm). A quick fix is use my mediaplayer's EQ (Musicbee) to drop the pre-amp gain -10dB together with lowering the DAC output volume. Also, IMO, the higher gain from the Fitz Mod works against the 6C8G tubes that I have due to their 40 AF compared to 6SN7's 20 AF (AF = amplification factor). Luckily, the Fitz Mod is easily reversible.
 
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Keno18

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Outside of volume gain, I can't tell whether the sound changed on mine using 220uF caps. People here mentioned that using caps having a capacitance less than 220uF (typically those using 100uF caps) will experience bass roll-off. I used two 220uF Nicohicon FG caps (you can use KZ too). The problem with the volume gain is that it lowers the listenable volume range. For me, the bottom of the volume range is pretty close to the threshold where channel imbalance kicks in (sound comes out of one side more than the other, tested on mono tracks to confirm). A quick fix is use my mediaplayer's EQ (Musicbee) to drop the pre-amp gain -10dB together with lowering the DAC output volume. Also, IMO, the higher gain from the Fitz Mod works against the 6C8G tubes that I have due to their 40 AF compared to 6SN7's 20 AF (AF = amplification factor). Luckily, the Fitz Mod is easily reversible.
Thanks for the detailed response, that's exactly the kind of information I was looking for. So 220uf at 25v. I'll order them next week.
 
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