Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII
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DarkDrummer

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After reading the articles sennfan83261 wrote about, I gently tapped the power tube and the popping/cracking sound disappeared. Surely enough, it came back after a few minutes, but tapping the tube again temporarily fixed the problem. And then again. So, I might be getting somewhere after all. The power tube seems to be bad. (Or the socket?) I'll replace that 6AS7 and see what happens...
I'm having the same problem with a GE 6AS7GA....I love the sound of it but out of nowhere it just starts to snapin', cracklin', and a poppin' !!! I used Deoxit on the tube pins to clean them up and it didn't do anything as far as helping with the problem. I don't know what to do. :frowning2:
 
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JKDJedi

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I'm having the same problem with a GE 6AS7GA....I love the sound of it but out of nowhere it just starts to snapin', cracklin', and a poppin' !!! I used Deoxit on the tube pins to clean them up and it didn't do anything as far as helping with the problem. I don't know what to do. :frowning2:
Try a different tube if you got it,
 
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JKDJedi

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Hi guys -

Had my DV for a while now but new to tube-rolling. Where should I begin?

TIA.
Read the last 30 pages....then chime back. :)
 
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sennfan83261

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Hi guys -

Had my DV for a while now but new to tube-rolling. Where should I begin?

TIA.
Start here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the-reference-6sn7-thread.117677/

You can search some of my posts (I don't have many). I already made my tube preferences for DV336 known here and on the HD650 thread. Lastly, set yourself a hard limit on what you'll be willing to spend on tubes. Sometimes it isn't worth it to chase the dragon (looking at you Western Electric 421A).
 
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laurianmoga

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Hi, guys.
Just replaced the power tube with a NOS Svetlana 6AS7G. The "snapin', cracklin', and poppin'" noise (as DarkDrummer so accurately described it in his post) is completely gone! The sound appears to be a little more detailed, but slightly less bassy. So far, so good.
 
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JKDJedi

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Hi, guys.
Just replaced the power tube with a NOS Svetlana 6AS7G. The "snapin', cracklin', and poppin'" noise (as DarkDrummer so accurately described it in his post) is completely gone! The sound appears to be a little more detailed, but slightly less bassy. So far, so good.
The bass will come with some burn in and for the monies a very good tube. I got the new version of that tube, and hear that the new ones are not as good as the NOS versions. Congrats Dude .. enjoy!
 
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JKDJedi

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If you have the NOS Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB AND the New Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB... Whats your take on them?

2019-06-08 16.55.46-1.jpg
 
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Amish

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I'm having the same problem with a GE 6AS7GA....I love the sound of it but out of nowhere it just starts to snapin', cracklin', and a poppin' !!! I used Deoxit on the tube pins to clean them up and it didn't do anything as far as helping with the problem. I don't know what to do. :frowning2:

Also maybe unrelated but make sure your cell phone is not too close to the amp. Might sound strange but any EMF from like a PC or even the signal coming out of your cell phone can cause some strange issues with tubes. Some tube will be fine and some will be more sensitive. I have dealt with this in the past.
 
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diforce

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Hey wonder if someone could help, i'm in the process of modding my DV 336se and I have several questions (it is connected to sen HD650 300ohm, will probably be replaced by beyerdynamics T1 gen2)

1. Performing the hum fitz mod for the cathode bridge, should I remove the 2 1k resistors while adding 220uF caps of decent quality ? (annoying hum at left channel for a long time now with Tung Sol preamp tube)
2. Can i remove the output all together If I don't need it ? Can I simply remove the 2k resistor and the 0.47uF cap ?
3. getting an alps rk27 100k is a smart idea considering the gain increase from the 220uF caps right ?
4. planning on removing the 10uF caps on the output stage and replace them with a single 80uF'ish of good quality cap, good idea ?
5. anything else I might as well replace I am not aware of ? since i'm already doing all of the above
6. is it ok to replace the 33 ,10k ,820 and 1M resistors with ALLEN BRADLEY ones ? considering i measure each for accuracy since they are 5%
 
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diforce

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If you have the NOS Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB AND the New Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB... Whats your take on them?

I have the red base one but it says 1810 and not 1803, anyway much better than the original, "S" is less knivy in your ears but still sharp, but my tube have a terrible left channel noise, was told to leave it on for 72h but it's on and off for a week now and maybe it went down by 50% :frowning2:
 
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JKDJedi

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I have the red base one but it says 1810 and not 1803, anyway much better than the original, "S" is less knivy in your ears but still sharp, but my tube have a terrible left channel noise, was told to leave it on for 72h but it's on and off for a week now and maybe it went down by 50% :frowning2:
those numbers are just dates, and the hum will eventually go away.. take out the power tube, the one behind it and just leave it on for 48 hours, that way your Darkone won't over heat during the b u rn in. I really like this tube. One of my favorites and most played.
 
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sennfan83261

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1. Performing the hum fitz mod for the cathode bridge, should I remove the 2 1k resistors while adding 220uF caps of decent quality ? (annoying hum at left channel for a long time now with Tung Sol preamp tube)
2. Can i remove the output all together If I don't need it ? Can I simply remove the 2k resistor and the 0.47uF cap ?
3. getting an alps rk27 100k is a smart idea considering the gain increase from the 220uF caps right ?
4. planning on removing the 10uF caps on the output stage and replace them with a single 80uF'ish of good quality cap, good idea ?
5. anything else I might as well replace I am not aware of ? since i'm already doing all of the above
6. is it ok to replace the 33 ,10k ,820 and 1M resistors with ALLEN BRADLEY ones ? considering i measure each for accuracy since they are 5%
1. Typically, the resistors are left in. Another head-fi'er posted an alternative to the Fitz mod to temper the single channel buzzing w/o the Fitz mod gain issues.
2. You may. As described elsewhere, performing this mod brightens the DV sound, thereby bringing it closer to the Crack. I cannot verify if this true or not.
3. Yes, the gain from performing the Fitz mod with 220uF caps is really noticeable with 6C8G tubes that some of us roll with our DV's due to the higher amplification factor of those tubes. With the stock 250K volume pot, listening volumes are at around 8 o'clock or below. Below 8 o'clock = channel imbalance. Replacing the stock volume pot is my next mod too. From a Yaqin Darkvoice mod thread, this post shows supposedly the wiring of the volume pot PCB. From the same thread, here's a post describing the difficulty of removing the stock volume pot from the front plate.
4. Don't know. People have replaced the 10uF output caps here and elsewhere (dive into the any of the links in this post, embedded or listed below)
5. Don't know either, but please post the results of your mods, :wink:
6. Don't know, but I hope others can chime in.


Other posts:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dv-336se-hum-fitz-mod.353079/page-2#post-5248489
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/dv-336se-hum-fitz-mod.353079/page-2#post-5480248
https://drop.com/buy/dark-voice-366se/talk/556072
https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/51tnl6/whats_required_for_modifying_a_darkvoice_336se/

EDIT: bunch of links and added a Fitz mod alternative...
 
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