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Darkvoice 336i & 336SE Tuberolling PartII

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by heatfan12, Jul 31, 2008.
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  1. Gallic Dweller
    Just taken a look at the internals of the Schiit, only one thing I don't like - the Alps Blue is configured PCB only, so there's nothing you can do, except maybe fit a new different pot. Volume control has a lot to do with the sound you hear, why do you think some are prepared to pay a lot of money for fancy stepped atts.

    My first intro to real hifi was on a forum dedicated to tube gear and in the early days there was real experimentation with components. The good old boys were all for PIO caps, most newbies soon rejected them, along with ditching carbon resistors. A big improvement was to 'shunt the pot', the pot being an Alps Blue. this can be viewed on the World-Designs forum, scroll down and look for the tweaks, it's there. It really transforms the Alps Blue into something an awful lot better. Most just used ordinary metal film resistors, I used Z foils - there is no comparison between a shunted Alps and the standard model.

    I don't think that Schiit intends it's punters to mod any of their gear and I don't think most want to anyway. I'm just pointing out how important to the overall sound the volume control is - it looks to be a well designed piece of gear. Using the one tube and a good one at that is nice, with adaptors you can tailor the sound to your liking. I'll bet it would sound good using a 6F8G TS RP but then any piece of gear does with that tube.
     
  2. JohnBal
    I own both and can say the new Lyr is head and shoulders above the 336. If you want a slower tube sound, stick with the DV. If you want speed, resolution, dynamics, frequency extension, clarity and larger more well defined stage, then go with the Lyr.
     
  3. Gallic Dweller
    JohnBal,
    is your D/V standard, you don't say. I've only made a couple of mods and the detail and clarity are great, voice is 3D. So is your D/V bog standard - there is a $300 difference in price, I've spent around $1 on the mods so far.
     
  4. JohnBal
    Bone stock. I'm not a tinkerer. No such skills or knowledge for that matter LoL.
     
  5. SilverEars
    what's the output impedance on this amp?
     
  6. spacequeen7
    • Impedance: 32 ~ 600 Ohms
     
  7. Gallic Dweller
    JohnBal,
    there's $300 difference in price, for a few $ that perceived gap in quality may well be able to be narrowed or closed and with a sense of personal achievement as well, not to be sniffed at.
     
  8. JohnBal
    Maybe. I don't know. I was replying to the OP who didn't indicate that modding was an option. I may have missed it though. He was asking about saving up for a Lyr 3. And my reply stands. My 2 cents.
     
  9. spacequeen7
    Swapped my DAC from -AK4396 to ES9038Q2M2 and my previously best sounding driver tube sounds like crap now .couldn't believe the difference
     
  10. Gallic Dweller
    spacequeen7 - could it be an impedance thing. Because some people have a first resistor of 100K instead of the 1M I have in D/V I popped in a Z foil 100K. The GE6080 which previously had worked so well with the 6F8G TS RP sounded terrible, screechy as hell. Like I say, check the specs of the two DACs, it's a process of elimination.
     
  11. JamesCanada
    Thanks for the awnser about the lyr 3.
    This does look like a nice, simple barebones amp.
    Love the look!
    Cheers!
     
    JohnBal likes this.
  12. spacequeen7
    You probably right since this DAC have preamp and the other one didn't
     
  13. evilsync
    Done a bit of reading but doesn’t seem to be a general consensus... but if there was, which tubes are worth rolling?
     
  14. aisalen
    Based from reading in this thread, JAN CRC RCA 6AS7G for power and Tung-Sol 6SN7GTB for driver.
     
    mindhead1 likes this.
  15. dobigstuff
    Even better than the 6AS7 you can also use the following Power Tubes: 7236, 5998 and if you can find them the 421A
     
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