Damaged MS2i cable, what can I do
Dec 3, 2007 at 9:13 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 16

DesmondDavidH

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The upper part of the Y (right chan) of my MS2i cable started making a cracking sound. What kind of option I have (considering I live in the EU)? Does Grado make repairs in/off warranty? What's the charge?

Tnx,
Luca
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 9:30 AM Post #2 of 16

Televator

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grado does perform repairs (within and outside of warranty) for Alessandro headphones (as they are essentially grados).

Warranty service (within one year of buying) is free except for the shipping to them, I believe... Service outside warranty is pretty cheap as well.

The Gradolabs website does mention contact info, so you can always ask before sending it in (phone is a quicker way than email with grado, but not practical from the eu) or you could ask Alessandro, but they'll just refer you to grado probably.

There is always the option of installing (having installed) a better cable. Recabling grado/alessandros (except for the woodies) is quite simple and any decent quality SPC cable with a nice Y-split could be regarded as an upgrade already. I have recabled my SR-60 myself (without much DIY-experience) but have been hesitating to try my MS2i's (don't want to ruin them). But there are a lot of commercial (/non-commercial) DIY'ers that have done this often enough to feel secure about it.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 11:12 AM Post #4 of 16

DesmondDavidH

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Yep I thought about different options, like a DIY recable starting from scratch, or even buying a Grado cable (got a WTB thread open) and do the soldering myself (much better) but I'm very scared at the idea of heating the cups and ruin the housing.

I'm waiting a reply from Grado, let's see what they tell me.

I also checked Headphile but Italy is the only country they do not ship to -_-°, not to mention a quality recable plus a double shipping will cost me an arm.

 
Dec 3, 2007 at 1:02 PM Post #6 of 16

DesmondDavidH

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Zorander /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I believe Qables is located in the EU and I am sure they offer Grado re-cables (I can't find it on their site but I know I have seen it before - can't forget those woodied beauties).

Cheers!



Qables is definitely out of my budget -_- tnx anyway.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 2:33 PM Post #7 of 16

snejk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DesmondDavidH /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Qables is definitely out of my budget -_- tnx anyway.


So you know what a Qable recabling costs? I'm curious if they do it and how much it would cost. The Y-joint of my almost new MS2 looks scary fragile, for some reason even more so than my RS1.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 3:50 PM Post #8 of 16

nickchen

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Take care that you don't get robbed with those nice but dubious headfi boutique-hifi aftermarket cables. Anything able to transmit electricity will do in principle.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 3:57 PM Post #9 of 16

n_maher

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nickchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Take care that you don't get robbed with those nice but dubious headfi boutique-hifi aftermarket cables. Anything able to transmit electricity will do in principle.


Yay, another cable skeptic.

To the OP, if you do decide to try and take them apart yourself just be aware that the aluminum will sink a lot of heat as you try to do this and you'll need a good pair of gloves to avoid getting burned. I've had several pairs of 325s (same housing) apart and it just takes time and a good amount of heat. No damage will result if you're careful.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 4:04 PM Post #10 of 16

snejk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by nickchen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Take care that you don't get robbed with those nice but dubious headfi boutique-hifi aftermarket cables. Anything able to transmit electricity will do in principle.


Yes that might be a good cautionary advice, although the notion about the (zero) effect of aftermarket cables are quite debatable I guess.

But this thread isn't about the effect of aftermarket cables and optimizing the sound but fixing a broken cable in the best way.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 4:45 PM Post #11 of 16

nickchen

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Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
To the OP, if you do decide to try and take them apart yourself just be aware that the aluminum will sink a lot of heat as you try to do this and you'll need a good pair of gloves to avoid getting burned. I've had several pairs of 325s (same housing) apart and it just takes time and a good amount of heat. No damage will result if you're careful.


I heared rumours that Grado doesn't utilize that hot melt adhesive any more and takes something superglue-ish instead. Bad news if true.
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 5:11 PM Post #12 of 16

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this has only been the case on the igrados and for the buttons... they will never use superglue on the cups as they wouldn't be able o open them themselves... and I really think they wouldn't do something as uneconomical as preventing their product to be serviced (so they have to exchange the product or at least part of it - i.e. the cup - even just to have a look at the inside)

I personally recommended a decent SPC DIY-wire because 1) you can choose several parameters yourself (length, stiffness, plug, Y-split, cover,...) ; 2) because it will take quite some time having them serviced from the eu ; 3) shipping costs and 4) a decent SPC-cable (which isn't boutique necessarily) is at least as good as the stock one and shouldn't cost too much (especially if you DIY yourself)

and last but not least... even if you don't believe in cables (not saying I do or I don't, my opinion doesn't matter here), we should agree that the eye deserves something as well... the MS2i is a beautiful phone and I bet even a die-hard cable-non-believer would solder some red-n-blue home- improvement electric wires to those beauties, even though they are designed to conduct electricity as well
wink.gif
 
Dec 3, 2007 at 5:19 PM Post #14 of 16

DesmondDavidH

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I just want a new cable on my MS2 without paying absurd moneys on it, cause it's Just a Cable.

Anyway, talking of the driver housing: isn't just plastic, like the RS1/2?
The alluminium cup chamber shouldn't have any component attached (except the plastic part with the transducer). Or not?

If there's a DIY in EU with good experience that can help me let me know. What I'm looking is not magic, just a good and heavy duty cable, possibly techflexed.
 

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