[HTSkywalker]

The 5998 power tube lower the output Z of the Crack somewhat, it can warm-up certain lower Z cans such as the Focal range pretty enjoyably.

I have the Elear so that’s good news
Thanks

 

[Tom-s]

Today I build a Crack. It's the one from last weeks pictures. I cheated the Hammerite dry times of 2-4 weeks by using the oven.

So this morning I started the journey and am now enjoying the new build Crack!
Leds lit. All checked out first time. And it's sounding great!

Here it sits next to my other Crack. This one looks better!



What's done!
In no particular order.
Input wiring and all signal wires are silver plated solid core copper.
FAQ #3 was implemented for optimizing usable volume range.
The volume pot is a stepped ladder time with SMD resistors. For better balance and sound quality.

The 6SN7 is used as input tube.
The Speedball small board was replaced by a switch board. This allows to switch between 3.6mA; 7,2mA and 8,2mA.
The first option is for 6SN7's. The other 2 options are for; par example; 12BH7's; E88CC's. Depending on the condition of the tube (and sound preference).

The power supply uses Shottky SIC diodes as bridge rectifier. And a Hammond 158M choke as second resistor in the power supply.
A film cap still needs to be installed; space is there. This is for another time. I preferred to do the base build without for troubleshooting reasons.
Same goes for the diode ground mod by PB. During this fase; i prefer a solid wire connection to ground.

For output caps Mundorf film types were installed.

It's

Edit: Don't know why i stopped at It's. Anyhow; i'll enjoy this on the coming evenings; as is. Next weekend. Building a base and the rest of the upgrades.

 

[Mightygrey]

Today I build a Crack. It's the one from last weeks pictures. I cheated the Hammerite dry times of 2-4 weeks by using the oven.

So this morning I started the journey and am now enjoying the new build Crack!
Leds lit. All checked out first time. And it's sounding great!

Here it sits next to my other Crack. This one looks better!



What's done!
In no particular order.
Input wiring and all signal wires are silver plated solid core copper.
FAQ #3 was implemented for optimizing usable volume range.
The volume pot is a stepped ladder time with SMD resistors. For better balance and sound quality.

The 6SN7 is used as input tube.
The Speedball small board was replaced by a switch board. This allows to switch between 3.6mA; 7,2mA and 8,2mA.
The first option is for 6SN7's. The other 2 options are for; par example; 12BH7's; E88CC's. Depending on the condition of the tube (and sound preference).

The power supply uses Shottky SIC diodes as bridge rectifier. And a Hammond 158M choke as second resistor in the power supply.
A film cap still needs to be installed; space is there. This is for another time. I preferred to do the base build without for troubleshooting reasons.
Same goes for the diode ground mod by PB. During this fase; i prefer a solid wire connection to ground.

For output caps Mundorf film types were installed.

It's

Edit: Don't know why i stopped at It's. Anyhow; i'll enjoy this on the coming evenings; as is. Next weekend. Building a base and the rest of the upgrades.

Very neat job. Nice work! Making me want to upgrade my caps...

 

[HTSkywalker]

Today I build a Crack. It's the one from last weeks pictures. I cheated the Hammerite dry times of 2-4 weeks by using the oven.

So this morning I started the journey and am now enjoying the new build Crack!
Leds lit. All checked out first time. And it's sounding great!

Here it sits next to my other Crack. This one looks better!



What's done!
In no particular order.
Input wiring and all signal wires are silver plated solid core copper.
FAQ #3 was implemented for optimizing usable volume range.
The volume pot is a stepped ladder time with SMD resistors. For better balance and sound quality.

The 6SN7 is used as input tube.
The Speedball small board was replaced by a switch board. This allows to switch between 3.6mA; 7,2mA and 8,2mA.
The first option is for 6SN7's. The other 2 options are for; par example; 12BH7's; E88CC's. Depending on the condition of the tube (and sound preference).

The power supply uses Shottky SIC diodes as bridge rectifier. And a Hammond 158M choke as second resistor in the power supply.
A film cap still needs to be installed; space is there. This is for another time. I preferred to do the base build without for troubleshooting reasons.
Same goes for the diode ground mod by PB. During this fase; i prefer a solid wire connection to ground.

For output caps Mundorf film types were installed.

It's

Edit: Don't know why i stopped at It's. Anyhow; i'll enjoy this on the coming evenings; as is. Next weekend. Building a base and the rest of the upgrades.

Indeed very neat and innovative job

 

[HTSkywalker]

Today I build a Crack. It's the one from last weeks pictures. I cheated the Hammerite dry times of 2-4 weeks by using the oven.

So this morning I started the journey and am now enjoying the new build Crack!
Leds lit. All checked out first time. And it's sounding great!

Here it sits next to my other Crack. This one looks better!



What's done!
In no particular order.
Input wiring and all signal wires are silver plated solid core copper.
FAQ #3 was implemented for optimizing usable volume range.
The volume pot is a stepped ladder time with SMD resistors. For better balance and sound quality.

The 6SN7 is used as input tube.
The Speedball small board was replaced by a switch board. This allows to switch between 3.6mA; 7,2mA and 8,2mA.
The first option is for 6SN7's. The other 2 options are for; par example; 12BH7's; E88CC's. Depending on the condition of the tube (and sound preference).

The power supply uses Shottky SIC diodes as bridge rectifier. And a Hammond 158M choke as second resistor in the power supply.
A film cap still needs to be installed; space is there. This is for another time. I preferred to do the base build without for troubleshooting reasons.
Same goes for the diode ground mod by PB. During this fase; i prefer a solid wire connection to ground.

For output caps Mundorf film types were installed.

It's

Edit: Don't know why i stopped at It's. Anyhow; i'll enjoy this on the coming evenings; as is. Next weekend. Building a base and the rest of the upgrades.

What cans are you using with the BHC

 

[skhan007]

Question about line level between the DAC and BHC:

I'm running my DAC (RME ADI-2) at -5dBu into the BHC. At this level, I find the BHC volume at about 9 or 10 O'Clock, which I think is pretty low on the dial, but sufficient and comfortable volume for me and my ZMF cans (about 70 dB listening level).

Curious if the BHC needs to be up at Noon or higher to get the proper tube benefits (i.e. the qualities we tend to love about tubes being driven at sufficient levels). I can certainly use my ears and dial down the output of the DAC a bit and turn up the volume on the BHC, but mostly curious how other people run their signal into the BHC?

 

[HTSkywalker]

Question about line level between the DAC and BHC:

I'm running my DAC (RME ADI-2) at -5dBu into the BHC. At this level, I find the BHC volume at about 9 or 10 O'Clock, which I think is pretty low on the dial, but sufficient and comfortable volume for me and my ZMF cans (about 70 dB listening level).

Curious if the BHC needs to be up at Noon or higher to get the proper tube benefits (i.e. the qualities we tend to love about tubes being driven at sufficient levels). I can certainly use my ears and dial down the output of the DAC a bit and turn up the volume on the BHC, but mostly curious how other people run their signal into the BHC?

Normally you crank the DAC volume all the way up into the BHC, the less volume used on a tube amp the less audible humming and hissing.

 

[Galapac]

Question about line level between the DAC and BHC:

I'm running my DAC (RME ADI-2) at -5dBu into the BHC. At this level, I find the BHC volume at about 9 or 10 O'Clock, which I think is pretty low on the dial, but sufficient and comfortable volume for me and my ZMF cans (about 70 dB listening level).

Curious if the BHC needs to be up at Noon or higher to get the proper tube benefits (i.e. the qualities we tend to love about tubes being driven at sufficient levels). I can certainly use my ears and dial down the output of the DAC a bit and turn up the volume on the BHC, but mostly curious how other people run their signal into the BHC?

I guess it depends on your use. For me I use a FiiO DAP so I run an RCA to USB-C line that reaches my chair. I set the tube amp anywhere from 10 to noon on the dial and then control the volume from my DAP to increase/decrease the volume from my chair. I get very minimal hum depending on the tubes, if it is a 6080 very minimal, a 5998 has a bit more due to the gain.

 

[eimis]

Bottlehead interview

 

[HTSkywalker]

In fact am checking on the Bottlehead Moreplay as a preamp to my high end system. sounds interesting but not much previews.

 

[xkonfuzed]

I have found that lower the input voltage into the Crack, the more I can avoid the initial channel imbalance from the potentiometer. Also it seems that with a 3V input form my Mojo I am rarely ever going past 11-12 on the knob on any of my headphones. When I run it at 2V I can get a lot more out of the amp.

 

[headphone hedonist]

Question about a recent post,

The Speedball small board was replaced by a switch board. This allows to switch between 3.6mA; 7,2mA and 8,2mA.

Is this pcb available for sale?
As a kit or just the board, doesn't matter.
If so, any information on where to purchase, or have one made would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Tom-s]

These switch boards were made for my own personal use. I have a few spares available, as these PCB makes have a minimal order number.
Let's continue via PM.

Edit: build some BH bases today. 2x Crack. 1x Eros.

 

[DeweyCH]

Upgraded my Crack - after having it built for a couple of months, I finally added the Speedball package and replaced the stock pot with a 20k DACT-style stepped attenuator.

Other than being an idiot and miswiring the attenuator the first time, it sounds really great! I re-did the braided wire from the inputs to the pot, too. All in all, a DEAD SILENT noise floor, whereas the old pot/lack of Speedball had some static popping up enough to be annoying in the right channel.

Now I just need a better knob, because this one I got from eBay is just absurd looking.

Philips ECC82/12AU7 in the front with a RCA 6AS7 in the back. Not my everyday tubes, but a couple that are nice but I won't be too sad if I f'ed up something in the wiring and they melted. But they didn't. So huzzah.

 

[xkonfuzed]

Looks nice! Do you like the sound with Speedball more, or without?

I'm running JAN 6AS7G as well. Really smooth tube. I'm looking at input tubes to replace my RCA cleartop, to me its a bit too forward and can end up sounding too shouty in mid-forward headphones. Do you like the Phillips ECC82?