[chrisdrop]

I recommend 2 different ones. The first is from Garage1217, and the second is from forum member @Deyan.

Here is the link for the Garage 1217 - http://garage1217.com/garage1217_diy_tube_headphone_amplifiers_012.htm

Contact @Deyan, by PM, and he is really great to work with. He can pretty much make what ever you want, and he has a great reputation on this forum.

The Garage 1217 is not as pretty, and I need to put a cover over that white part. @Deyan's look much better, by the way.

FYI- one more recommendation for @Deyan. He is great to work with.

 

[Tom-s]

I'm also a very happy @Deyan adapter user! I now have about 10 of them. And all are perfect for my rolling adventures!

His 37 / 76 adapter is getting some fine use. I found a General Electric 37 pair in the collection today and opened the boxes for the first time since packing (Date code 43-L0, if anyone knows what date this is?? ).

Lovely open detailed sound with the most refined highs, more "hi-fi" compared to other 37/76 tubes. I'm a big fan of these more "cheap" alternative tubes.

Here's a picture, fresh from the box, before removing 60-80 years of the dust from them. I like these old style GE boxes. Prefer them over the "modern" grey/orange ones.

 

[DenverW]

ClarityCap TC 110uF output caps - Will bypass with 1uF Audyn True Copper Max (when they eventually turn up from the UK). No electrolytics in the power supply - Just more ClarityCap TCs. Very happy.

Did you replace the ps caps with 110uf as well? Any trouble with the fit?

 

[JamieMcC]

ClarityCap TC 110uF output caps - Will bypass with 1uF Audyn True Copper Max (when they eventually turn up from the UK). No electrolytics in the power supply - Just more ClarityCap TCs. Very happy.

Hi I seem to have to have a vague recollection you have used the clarity caps in a crack before (5 or 6 years ago maybe) but my memory is not what it used to be?

 

[Toad_of_Toad_Hall]

.

 

[DenverW]

Sounds impressive! And complicated. For now I'll put in the blue velvet pot, wait for speedball to arrive, put that in, and then pop in the kzk output caps.

Does anyone have a suggestion on mounting the caps without having to drill holes in the faceplate? I will if I have to, but I'd prefer other options. The caps are 59mm L and 63mm D. Big, but not as big as mundorfs.

 

[larcenasb]

Spent the last several days comparing bypass caps for the last power supply film cap in the Crack (Audyn Q4 68uF 400V, same as output caps), and here are my impressions:

No bypass cap: Very smooth sound, but not very engaging. Still pleasant and enjoyable.

Audyn Tri-Reference 0.68uF 600V: Not as smooth, little details are rendered sharply, vocals take a significant step forward. There's plenty of attack and engagement when listening, makes your eyes pop open. Compared to no bypass, the difference is obvious...this is like adding a supercharger.

Audyn True Copper 0.68uF 630V: The supercharger impression is diminished, vocals take a modest step back, attack and engagement are lessened. Instruments separate further apart, the soundscape width expands, little details are sharp yet the overall sound is smoother than the Tri-Reference. The sound seems very refined and controlled, treble is never screechy. Interestingly, I have to turn the volume up a couple clicks to match the output of the amp with the Tri-Reference.

Current thoughts: When I first heard the True Copper, I was entranced with its refinement and control. I thought this is a clear objective upgrade in sound quality--and it is--even though it wasn't as engaging as the Tri-Reference. After several days of testing each, I found that I kept smiling more when going back to the Tri-Reference. I appreciate the True Copper's high-class, controlled sound...but I adore the Tri-Reference's on-the-edge lust for life--its need to spill its heart out every time. I analyze the music more with the True Copper, and I experience goosebumps from the music more with the Tri-Reference. In the end, it is a quality that's really important to me.

 

[larcenasb]

Does anyone have a suggestion on mounting the caps without having to drill holes in the faceplate?

I recommend you drill and use zip tie mounts with a small bolt and nut. I've used just adhesive zip tie mounts with the Crack before, and after a few months the adhesive didn't hold and one of the caps dropped. The heat of the top plate and the weight of bigger caps require a more secure mounting method.

 

[Bullpride]

So............ Everything put together, plug the RCAs into the Pass of my Drop Liquid Carbon + Grace SDAC. Not getting any sound. Anyone else using the the LCX x/Grace as just a DAC? Passing the analog signal to their Bottlehead (or another amp). USB in from my computer. I hope I am not misunderstanding how the link in the chain should work.

https://imgur.com/gallery/3KnaWrz

 

[DenverW]

I wish I could say it’s because the volume knob is all the way down.

Did it pass all of the resistance and voltage checks? If so, do you have another dac to test it with, or a different amp to test the pass through function? That would help narrow down if you’re looking at a pass through issue or an issue with the crack. Pass through shouldn’t be a problem. Once you have the check numbers, post them with the issue on the bottlehead forums and doc and Paul will help you as well.

Thats a nice looking amp!

 

[Bullpride]

I wish I could say it’s because the volume knob is all the way down.

Did it pass all of the resistance and voltage checks? If so, do you have another dac to test it with, or a different amp to test the pass through function? That would help narrow down if you’re looking at a pass through issue or an issue with the crack. Pass through shouldn’t be a problem. Once you have the check numbers, post them with the issue on the bottlehead forums and doc and Paul will help you as well.

Thats a nice looking amp!

Ha yeah I wish, too. I did turn the volume up.

All resistance and voltage test passed.

Unfortunately the LCX is the only DAC/Amp I currently have.

 

[DenverW]

I’m not familiar with the lcx amp, but what I’d do is review the manual to make sure I’m not missing some kind of setting with the pass through, then I’d post my voltages on the Bottlehead forum in the crack section. Theyre super helpful and can identify if the issue is with the crack.

it looks like the tubes are glowing fine, but if you have any other tubes I would swap them. Also check the solder joints on your headphone jack.

 

[PsilocybinCube]

I’m not familiar with the lcx amp, but what I’d do is review the manual to make sure I’m not missing some kind of setting with the pass through, then I’d post my voltages on the Bottlehead forum in the crack section. Theyre super helpful and can identify if the issue is with the crack.

it looks like the tubes are glowing fine, but if you have any other tubes I would swap them. Also check the solder joints on your headphone jack.

It's likely your amp might need to be set to line out mode or DAC-only mode. You should verify that the sound is passing through the RCAs.

 

[Bullpride]

So the Grace SDAC on the Liquid Carbon does have an RCA Pass, but that only works with the SE RCA input.

There is a 3.5mm Line Out which is part of the DAC itself. 3.5 to dual RCA connected to the Crack and we are in business.

Some other pics of the finished build:
https://imgur.com/gallery/3KnaWrz

Some pics of the build along the way:
https://imgur.com/a/z5odUR0

 

[bagwell359]

Here is what my BHC is going to look like. Before you spit out your wheaties:

1. I'm adapting a cage for the backside to keep anyone for getting a ground shock off the filters, if it looks bad or doesn't work they'll go inside.

2. I know the amp isn't balanced, but all my cables terminate in a balanced not SE manner. It doesn't hurt that the cable locks in more surely than the stock piece. I will add an SE plug later, hung underneath the chassis.

3. I dislike the unruly ostrich like power line and RCA ins. So I'm going under. Direct short run for both, I may notch the case once I've installed them. Seems weird to have the RCA ins then run across the length of the amp. I don't like the fuse/AC in combo either, they are gone, separate AC3 fuse holder going in. Also adding X1 Y2 safety caps at input.

4. Yes, using E80CC. Have the resistors for the change needed for speedball

5. Yes, cutting down the shaft of the volume pot about 1/2" so knob sit better.

Why all the fuss? Well between 1972 and 1983 I built 14 kits and they all were by the book. Then for years I built subwoofer cabinets and changed tweeters and x-overs, but no kits. Pretty sure this will be my last one, so why not go over the top?