Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Jun 16, 2015 at 11:19 PM Post #7,036 of 12,335
Often you need to listen to the music since the "burn-in" is often just getting used to the new sound.

Alternatively, leave it on for a day, but don't play anything, then listen to it. If it sounds better, then either the sound changed or your expectations were lowered sufficiently (yet another form of burn in).

Then, if leaving it on for a day didn't make it sound better, play music through it without any headphone plugged in for a day, then check again. Use a low volume

If that doesn't work, play music through it for a day with headphones plugged in, then listen again. If that doesn't change the sound it's possible you need to buy a new headphone cable, or a new power cable, or upgrade the caps, or upgrade the jacks, or update the resistors, or upgrade the wire, or upgrade the sockets. You may have a vibration issue, so you should put anti-vibration pads under your crack, under your source, and under the CD for one hour before you insert the CD into the CD player (to remove any pre-vibrations that might carry over). If you are playing music you downloaded, make sure the music has to to "rest" and become acclimated to your hard drive. If not acclimated, the music could get upset and sound jittery. Really. Google jitter and you will find all sort of discussion on jitter and how to avoid it.

:)



Hahaha, thanks. Great post.
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 12:02 AM Post #7,037 of 12,335
 
IMO the clear top is the way to go with the HD650, unless you can afford an Amperex 12AU7. The clear top and HD650 combo was almost solid enough for me to keep the HD650 but I'm an HD600 person at heart. The Gold Lion is solid for sure, but for me it does better with the HD600. But hey, everyone is different! And yeah, if you see an amperex tube for a good price, grab it!!

Is there a specific Amperex 12AU7 tube that's really good? I see a very large range of prices on e-bay.


i would also like to know the ans....
popcorn.gif

 
Jun 17, 2015 at 12:22 AM Post #7,038 of 12,335
Orange globe pretty much any would do though long as its 12au7 type. You could try and search for sale forum here too I've seen them listed before not sure if there are any left though hehe.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Amperex-globe-12AU7-ECC82-grey-plate-top-halo-get-made-in-Holland-tested-/261930226607?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cfc4213af
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPEREX-12AU7-ECC82-VACUUM-TUBE-ORANGE-GLOBE-1970-SINGLE-WARM-SWEET-A17F-/221798902742?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a43eabd6
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-2-Vintage-AMPEREX-12AU7A-Tubes-Hickok-533A-Tested-NOS-/381276023422?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58c5d26a7e
 
and this is cheapest best option probably, I should probably buy it myself because of the price alone but since I have a couple already and you're in need.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Strong-Amperex-World-Logo-by-GE-Short-Gray-Plate-O-Getter-12AU7A-ECC82-Tube-/111669932803?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1a000bf303
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 4:06 AM Post #7,039 of 12,335
What ab

What about the bugle boy. As far as I know that is the best varient of the Amperex 12AU7 (and the most expensive) but that is for the HD 650 the best option, as far as I've heard. They can be found for around $70 for a good one.
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 5:06 AM Post #7,040 of 12,335
Yea that ones ok but I much prefer the Orange Globe it give so much more life to upper range. Orange Globes are just as well respected as a Bugle Boy if you ask me, from what I've read on here. And for $11.00 ....seriously you guys will be kicking yourselves in the ass later for not grabbing it at that price. The guy is giving it away. Even the $20 are dirt cheap they are also Halo getters which I think are the better sounding version of the tube. Least most of the ones I linked are halo getters anyway it's real late and I can't remember but anyway.
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 9:22 AM Post #7,041 of 12,335
Thanks for the tip hdtv00! i bought that frst one you posted.
Il rotate through Genalex Gold lion ECC82, RCA 12AU7 Cleartop and the Amperex 12AU7 Orange and give my impressions with my setup!
Cheers :D
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 1:12 PM Post #7,043 of 12,335
The way tube prices can be any time you see a tube that's decent for $10 -$20 buy it. Long as it looks right, seller is rated good. Because prices only go up, way up from there usually so, grab em while you can and at those prices.
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 2:41 PM Post #7,044 of 12,335
It's good to be a bit cautious about choosing tubes based on their logos or them being "Orange Globe" or "Bugle-Boy" alone.  Tubes were re-branded all-over the place.  People get most excited about those 12AU7s that came out of the Philips factory in Holland since they have that characteristic warm yet detailed sound.
 
Since Philips group was making tubes for Amperex and they have factories and subsidiary companies all over the world they might have come from anywhere in Europe or even further afield.  Also I'm not certain but one of those tubes looks like it could be a rebranded GE 12AU7 and another could be a rebranded Mullard.  I've seen some that were made in Japan. I have no idea if they sound alike but I would expect some differences.  
 
Don't mean to throw a spanner in the works but its good to get into the habit of checking the factory-codes or asking the seller if you are looking for a particular tube. 
 
 
Below - German branded VALVO ECC82s but made in Holland by Philips.
 

 
Jeb.
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 5:53 PM Post #7,045 of 12,335
Yea never buy from someone from ebay you refuses returns. Although really ebay pretty much supports the buyer and forces them to take them back anyway if they're not good working tubes. Even is mistaken labeled. But sound advice labeling actually works both ways. I've got some off labeled for a steal because they didn't know what they actually had.
 
I comb through the tube roller threads here and on bottlehead forums, cause people like to post pics of their tubes. That way you can get an idea what construction was like on the tube you're looking for, it can be a guessing game and it sucks but also it's part of the fun finding a gem. And at $10 one can't go to wrong for the most part. But anyway yea good advice.
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 5:54 PM Post #7,046 of 12,335
My Amperex is a rebranded Hewlett Packard tube, says "Made in Holland" and "by Amperex" on it. Sounds absolutely beautiful with the HD600.
 
The RCA Clear Top was by far my favorite with the HD650 though...
 
Jun 17, 2015 at 9:27 PM Post #7,047 of 12,335
   
 
Often you need to listen to the music since the "burn-in" is often just getting used to the new sound.
 
Alternatively, leave it on for a day, but don't play anything, then listen to it. If it sounds better, then either the sound changed or your expectations were lowered sufficiently (yet another form of burn in).
 
Then, if leaving it on for a day didn't make it sound better, play music through it without any headphone plugged in for a day, then check again. Use a low volume
 
If that doesn't work, play music through it for a day with headphones plugged in, then listen again. If that doesn't change the sound it's possible you need to buy a new headphone cable, or a new power cable, or upgrade the caps, or upgrade the jacks, or update the resistors, or upgrade the wire, or upgrade the sockets. You may have a vibration issue, so you should put anti-vibration pads under your crack, under your source, and under the CD for one hour before you insert the CD into the CD player (to remove any pre-vibrations that might carry over). If you are playing music you downloaded, make sure the music has to to "rest" and become acclimated to your hard drive. If not acclimated, the music could get upset and sound jittery. Really. Google jitter and you will find all sort of discussion on jitter and how to avoid it.
 
:)

 
 
I'd come back and state that once your ear is sufficiently refined/trained, burn-in or break-in may make difference for you. Audiophiles generally don't listen to music the same way or for the same reasons that common folk do. They perhaps cue into dynamics, space, tone and timbre. Spacial queues, a sense of height width and depth with headphones especially require a system with a clean power supply and components. Audiophile grade components exists because every component in the signal chain or that imparts control of the signal will affect it by adding its own characteristic noise, or blurring if you will.  My mental view is to use the water analogy.  Rivers, rocks, pressure and time. The path of least resistance is made. This established path is generally audible and can be contrasted against identical equipment that is not 'burned-in'.  Its not a new concept and generally accepted as subjective evidence since the beginning of high-end audio.
 
 
Admittedly there are extremists who will wave any voodoo over their equipment they can to try and 'purify' the sound. Generally this stems from ignorance and audiophools can be a odd bunch of subjectivists. But.. their not hurting anyone. :) Just maybe the wallet. 
 
Jun 18, 2015 at 1:52 AM Post #7,050 of 12,335
Hey guys,
I have the HD800 and I ordered the Crack + Speedball two weeks ago, and while I'm waiting for it to be shipped, I'm starting to have some doubts about the purchase - maybe I should have gone with the Valhalla 2 instead.
What do you think?
 

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