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I ran the 7308 in my Lyr 2. It's not compatible with the Crack. The 7308 is a 6922 variant.
Wow the noob struck out. Appreciate you guys pointing out the obvious can't believe I wasted that much time trying an incompatible tube haha wow .
As my father used to say... "That's how we learn. Now pull that tent spike out of your foot, and finish pitching the tent. It's getting dark."
I've done the same thing, actually worse, I once had all the right tubes but was plugging them into the wrong sockets! All 8 pin sockets of the same size are compatible with all tubes that will fit in them right? Welcome to the club!
I am just starting my crack build now. I have put a clear coat on top of the transformer end bell to prevent rust. Is it okay for me to also paint the underside of the end bell as i am worried about rust there too.
The manual says not to paint it as it may be a part of the ground loop but for the life of me i cant see any circuits or ground loops that incorporate the transformer end bell. Any thoughts on this?
I would ask on the bottlehead forum but it appears to be offline for me at least
I have yet to see Doc tell anyone not to do something just because. If he says don't, seriously, don't.
The Bottlehead site is offline for me as well. Try to access the site though a proxy/VPN, it works then.
Has anyone been able to access the Bottlehead website? I haven't been able to since a few weeks now.
I get this error: "Access from your Country was disabled by the administrator."
tried just now and I can access it without any issue
I can get to it fine. Unfortunately their hosting provider is pretty bad. For instance if you try to log into the store and you use the wrong username and password it throws a security error and doesn't tell you that your username and password are bad.
My bet is there were attacks ( DDoS, Brutforce Password ) coming from whatever country your IP is associated with and the provider just blocked the whole country or region. It happens.
Taking a working crack amp with speedball and removing everything from the top plate to change over to my three plate system is not the easy way to go because you have to cut a lot of wires and you have altered the original to add the speedball upgrade.
I am also adding molex plugs so the top plate can be removed without disturbing the front and back plates.
The individual volume knobs in pearl and silver once adorned two Fender guitars.So far I have used about 12 coats of black lacquer on the cabinet but I cannot install the headphone jack in the cabinet side till all of that is done. The jack will have to be mounted then wired. Basically every wire had to be cut from the small tube socket to remove it so I have to keep the speedball upgrade out of the way while I rewire said socket. Luckily my son is not in a big hurry for this amp and this is not a build i would do for anyone but a family member. I should have known I was in trouble when I showed off my amp and my son asked if could have his own choice of materials. Oak was easier as was adding a patina to copper. When completed this should go nicely with a gloss black Music Hall turntable.
That is not a mess,Mine is.
Except for some polishing I am nearly finished with the carbon fiber crack amp that uses my three plate system. I also ran a preamp out to the back plate so my son can hook it easily to his speaker amp if he so chooses. I used a 3.5 mm for the preamp out because it can also double as a second headphone jack, since it is in parallel with the original jack, two sets of headphones can be run at the same time.
I will build some silver audio cables to match and right now it just has the factory rubber feet till I find something better in silver. Vu meter lights are white whereas I used yellow on the steampunk crack amp. My next crack builds will most likely involve polished copper, more quartered oak, some top quality walnut, and or cherry.
Nice. Now you have enough space to install those large Mundorf Caps.