Crack;Bottlehead OTL
Jun 8, 2015 at 8:38 PM Post #6,992 of 11,881

PETEREK

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i have problem with the crack. all worked well but suddenly.... i listen to music and only left side of the headphones working. right channel is silent as [COLOR=3E3E3E]tomb... what should i do?[/COLOR]

Try moving loosening your right RCA input and make sure it isn't grounding on the top plate then tighten it back up. If it isn't that, start jiggling wires until you find one that may have popped off somehow.

Edit: before that, try swapping the left and right RCA cables you have to make sure it's the amp that is having the problem. It would be annoying to mess around with the amp if it was the cable the whole time.
 
Jun 9, 2015 at 12:05 AM Post #6,993 of 11,881

ohcrapgorillas

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I'm actually really really impressed with the combo of the Crack and the Grado SR80i. Looking at the impedance, you'd think they'd be a terrible match but I'm lovin' Eidolon by Rishloo. Holy prog!
 
The stock power tube does best with the Grados, having that "warm, gooey tube sound" that so many people love. The 5998 is too close to solid state.
 
As for the preamp tube, I thought I'd like the gold lion best with a wider soundstage and good bass slam and smooth mids, but the RCA clear top is really surprising. 
 
Jun 9, 2015 at 12:08 AM Post #6,994 of 11,881

PETEREK

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  I'm actually really really impressed with the combo of the Crack and the Grado SR80i. Looking at the impedance, you'd think they'd be a terrible match but I'm lovin' Eidolon by Rishloo. Holy prog!
 
The stock power tube does best with the Grados, having that "warm, gooey tube sound" that so many people love. The 5998 is too close to solid state.
 
As for the preamp tube, I thought I'd like the gold lion best with a wider soundstage and good bass slam and smooth mids, but the RCA clear top is really surprising. 

I would actually think Grados would love the Crack for the tube effects. They need some low end attention, and that is just what the tubes offer.
 
Jun 9, 2015 at 11:28 AM Post #6,996 of 11,881

audiowize

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  i have problem with the crack. all worked well but suddenly.... i listen to music and only left side of the headphones working. right channel is silent as tomb... what should i do?


Post your resistances and voltages on the Bottlehead forum.
 
Jun 10, 2015 at 10:33 AM Post #6,997 of 11,881

Mich4lle

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Hello guys,
This forum is great and very helpful. I have another question about my RCA sockets though. They have lost all the thread on their screws and will not work anymore so I want to replace them. Where I live the only ones I can get seem to be the Furutech FP-900 and I want to know if they will work with the crack, because I can't see that grounding post on them.
 
Jun 10, 2015 at 12:58 PM Post #6,998 of 11,881

audiowize

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Hello guys,
This forum is great and very helpful. I have another question about my RCA sockets though. They have lost all the thread on their screws and will not work anymore so I want to replace them. Where I live the only ones I can get seem to be the Furutech FP-900 and I want to know if they will work with the crack

These require a 10mm hole, which is a little bigger than the 3/8" hole on the Crack.  We did switch jacks some time ago to the Neutrik line, and consequently newer Cracks will come with a 10mm hole.  If you have access to a hand drill, you can very likely bore out your chassis hole to 10mm (hold that sucker down, don't let it move), as you only need to remove 1/2 a mm of material.
 
The Furutech jacks look like a $63 version of a $4 pair of Chinese RCA jacks.  Caveat emptor.  That same manufacturer makes a gold over copper jack (the Furu is gold over brass) for $20 or so per pair. 
 
Jun 10, 2015 at 1:13 PM Post #6,999 of 11,881

Mich4lle

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Oh but my crack is pretty new, I got it half way through last year (ordered it) so hopefully it will be the right size otherwise I can just drill the hole to the right size.
The problem with the RCA jacks is that as far as selection goes I kinda have to buy these ones because in South Africa I can't get hold of anything else. Are they a complete waste of money? Unless somebody has a suggestion. :wink: But thanks for the help.
 
Jun 10, 2015 at 1:22 PM Post #7,000 of 11,881

audiowize

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Oh but my crack is pretty new, I got it half way through last year (ordered it) so hopefully it will be the right size otherwise I can just drill the hole to the right size.
The problem with the RCA jacks is that as far as selection goes I kinda have to buy these ones because in South Africa I can't get hold of anything else. Are they a complete waste of money? Unless somebody has a suggestion. :wink: But thanks for the help.

 
Your holes will be 3/8", but a 10mm drill bit will be easy to find in ZA. 
 
These can be shipped to you, you'll be out less than $20.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/fskn2-2x-CMC-Gold-RCA-Female-Socket-Chassis-Connector-Phono-Copper-Plug-Amp-HiFi-/301311119184?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item46278acf50#shpCntId
 
If you're in the bush, let me know where, I have a friend that's regularly traveling to the northeastern provinces.
 
Jun 10, 2015 at 10:04 PM Post #7,002 of 11,881

Hibuckhobby

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i have problem with the crack. all worked well but suddenly.... i listen to music and only left side of the headphones working. right channel is silent as [COLOR=3E3E3E]tomb... what should i do?[/COLOR]

Figure it out yet?


Swap driver tube. If problem persists look for cold solder joint or burnt resistor. Go to bottlehead
Site...lots of knowlegable people there.
Hibuck....
 
Jun 11, 2015 at 5:24 AM Post #7,003 of 11,881

PETEREK

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Take a screw driver and just start jiggling wires with it until you find the one you thought had a good solder on it, but you were really just soldering everything but that wire. I'm willing to bet that's what happened, it was just making a connection until now.
 
Jun 11, 2015 at 10:46 AM Post #7,004 of 11,881

skeptic

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I'm looking to try new Tubes for my BHC, can anyone link me to a site where i can find some?

Cheers


My best advice is to hunt and peck for deals on ebay. Start cheap with an old stock tung sol 12au7, still one of my favs, that can easily be found for under $20 and some mil spec 6080's, which can be had for <$10 each. Ramp up from there if need be.

Also, always bear in mind that if the cost of your crack, speedball, mods, tubes etc. starts to approach the cost of a mainline, you have gone off the trail and into the weeds.
 
Jun 11, 2015 at 11:30 AM Post #7,005 of 11,881

DDDamian

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My best advice is to hunt and peck for deals on ebay. Start cheap with an old stock tung sol 12au7, still one of my favs, that can easily be found for under $20 and some mil spec 6080's, which can be had for <$10 each. Ramp up from there if need be.

Also, always bear in mind that if the cost of your crack, speedball, mods, tubes etc. starts to approach the cost of a mainline, you have gone off the trail and into the weeds.

So easily done :)
 

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