CMOY Amp Solder

Jan 20, 2003 at 1:47 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 14

duane

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Hello,

I've just started my CMOY Pocket Amp project and am in the process of installing the jumpers and I'm concerned about my soldering job. Can someone please take a look at the picture and tell me if the solder touching other pads is a problem. Any tips for getting better solder joints?

Picture
 
Jan 20, 2003 at 1:52 AM Post #2 of 14
Hehe, that's how my first cmoy looked
smily_headphones1.gif
. It should be fine just as long as the joints are solid and don't contact with neighboring joints. You can use some braid to soak up the excess solder.
 
Jan 20, 2003 at 2:05 AM Post #3 of 14
Good start. But keep practicing. A good solder joint should be almost flush with the board, even indented into the pad. The component leads are properly heated when you can literally see the solder following the flux into the pad. You know you have a good solid joint when the solder slightly "wicks" on the component lead.

Cold joints suck.
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Jan 20, 2003 at 2:55 AM Post #4 of 14
Ok, I'm practicing now on this protoboard and I'm starting to get better. I'm using a 25watt Weller iron.

I believe I was using too much solder. It would just flow all over the board.

My strategy now is touch the tip of the iron to the board and have it touching both the board and the jumper wire. After about 2 seconds I touch the solder wire to where the board and jumper meet on the opposite side from the iron. I then just let a tiny bit of solder flow. Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 
Jan 20, 2003 at 4:48 AM Post #6 of 14
I'm using pretty crude soldering equipment, but my work looks a lot better with just a few lessons learned.

1. Your solder diameter is very important. I started with a 1+mm diameter type, but the 0.6mm that I'm using now melts with almost no preheating needed. That time saved in preheating your joint also helps prevent heat damage to components, and trace lifting. My control over coverage and flow is much more precise with this low diameter solder as well.

2. Solder composition matters. If your solder doesn't melt at a low enough temp, or if its melting isn't instantaneous, then you'll probably get lots of ugly cold joints as I did. I believe you'll want to look for a eutectic solder. I'm quite happy with my Radio Shack silver-bearing solder.

3. Keep your iron tinned. If your iron tip loses that chrome-like shine, it won't transfer heat very well. You can apply that iron to the joint until the cows come home but all you'll get is a messy wreck with an untinned iron tip. My experience with Radio Shack tips is poor. They degrade quickly into useless nubs, and can't be helped by tip cleaner. I've been using the same crappy single clad tip for months, but its kept in great shape with a chemical tip cleaner/tinner.

Oh yeah, and I cut the leads to length before making the joint. You want to avoid mechanical stress on the solder joint, so I would avoid the cuts after soldering.

Happy DIYing
smily_headphones1.gif
.
 
Jan 20, 2003 at 5:30 AM Post #7 of 14
I personally cut the leads after soldering. I use an Excelite wire cutter and it does a great job cutting flush and clean. As long as your cutter is sharp, and you have a solid joint, there won't be any stress on it. You need to make sure the cutter is held at the proper angle to the board.
 
Jan 23, 2003 at 8:45 AM Post #8 of 14
Hi, I just finished my first CMOY and it looks like crap (but it works!). Anyways, I was wondering if you guys have any more tips on how to prep/maintain the tip of the iron? Mine turned to crap half way thru the project and I wasn't able to make the joint pretty. So I just tried to finish it without worrying about cosmetics too much.

BTW I am using Radioshack iron...
 
Jan 23, 2003 at 5:39 PM Post #9 of 14
I was looking around for information on soldering and I discovered Vectronics makes a learn to solder kit, with very detailed information on types of solder, irons, techniques, tips, tricks, etc.

The best part is if you just want to do the reading (90% of the reason you'd buy it anyway), you can download the manual for FREE...
very_evil_smiley.gif


Ok, that's evil, I know. So if you find it of value, you probably should at least buy some vectronics products at some point to support them.

http://www.vectronics.com/vectronics.../VEC-1500K.pdf
 
Jan 23, 2003 at 6:16 PM Post #10 of 14
Try to use an eutectic solder with a Sn63/Pb37 mix. You can buy a Kester eutectic solder in the "44" or "No Clean" type for very little money over at Mouser.com.

I use a more expensive solder: Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder from PercyAudio.com. In my tests, this solder offers the least amount of resistance. That means that it will conduct electricity better than other solders. This happens to be very, very important when you solder PCBs. Reasons? With PCBs, you are unable to get a good mechanical connection at your solder points. Thus, the solder must conduct electricity in your circuit! Mind you: Solders are lousy conductors of electricity. So it makes sense to use a solder that is a good conductor.

Cardas Quad Eutectic Solder also solders clean. You don't have to clean out burnt flux from a board. Why? It burns off most of its flux as you solder. That, of course, is a big plus for me.

To test solders...
--Cut equal lengths of the solders to be tested.
--Check for resistance with a Digital Multimeter (DMM).
--The solder with the least resistance is the best solder to use!!!
 
Jan 23, 2003 at 6:27 PM Post #11 of 14
Here's a fantastic animated soldering tutorial by Joe Mac Jr....

http://home.att.net/~joemacjr/diyproject/soldering.html

If you find anything better, let me know! The only thing I don't like in Joe Mac's tutorial is the mention of Radio Shack solder. It's quality varies. So stay away from it.

Do you want a great, inexpensive solder? Try Kester in an eutectic mix! NASA uses Kester Solder exclusively because its quality is very consistent!
 
Jan 24, 2003 at 12:37 AM Post #12 of 14
Does anybody have any recommendations for a decent soldering iron that can be purchased at RadioShack for around $20 or less? I have the crappy one that came in the $7.99 kit that included a stand and some solder. It's somewhat functional but a pain to work with.
 

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