Clip+ Mod for More Bass Control and More Inner Detail
Jan 21, 2011 at 8:57 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 11

Matt

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Gentlemen,
 
Wow...have not been on here for a long, long time, probably five or six years. Quick "credits": I used to own a crapload of cans, starting with Grado SR-80s, Audio-Technica Hokkaido "woodies" (forget the model number), through Sennheiser HD-600's, Etymotic ER-4P's, Grado RS-1's and Stax '404's and then finally (where I called it quits and cashed out) Stax Omega II headphones with a custom-built Kevin Gilmore amp. Further, I have spent time with the Sennheiser Orpheus (at a Headroom.com tour). Finally, I hosted a Florida meetup back in the early days of this site, I wonder if those pics are still around. Lots of great gear and experiences there. 
 
So, I got used to fairly high-end sound (you could say). 
 
Since then I have gotten married and spend my money elsewhere at the moment (pinball!) but still have had the audio itch in the back of my mind.
 
LET'S GET THIS ROLLING - so quickly I got a PX-100's on the recommendation of Head-Fi some time ago (before they were replaced by the PX-100 II) and then got a Clip+ just recently. Wanted a highly portable, no-amp rig for gym and mobile use. Was looking to optimize that. 
 
THE MOD - I ended up breaking my Clip+'s left channel solder tab off of the PCB after I had to replace the PX-100's miniplug after it got "laptopped" (dropped laptop sideways right on miniplug, splaying it's guts). I put in a (probably too-big) RatShack Gold Series miniplug with solder terminals, which then using it out working on a property ended up lifting the aforementioned left channel solder tab off of the PCB
 
Anyhow, I have what I believe is a pretty damn sweet Clip+ mod that cost little to nothing (if you have solder and an iron). So in the process I ended up popping the whole miniplug jack assembly off. Like it was brittle almost. Kind of interesting, because soldering jobs that *I* do would never do that.
 
So I simply follow the old Xin Feng / Fixup.net method of "tiny" PCB soldering (modestly tin the terminals, modestly tin the pads, fit together and give them a beat with the iron...PERFECTION...beautiful mirror-surface joints) and resolder them.
 
I notice there wasn't much solder to begin with (not that I gobbed it on or anything) and - as above - the joints were quite brittle it seemed, enough to just crack off with some twerking. 
 
LONGER STORY SHORT - put the cans back on and...wow! Now, I may be sullying my reputation here if this doesn't work for absolutely everyone, but I am going to go out on a limb and say that I am hearing a significantly improved sound. Bass is more real, deeper, NOTICEABLY more controlled. Inner detail is also noticeably improved. Synthesizers have noticeably more bite and texture. 
 
So, for the price of taking the Clip+ apart (and risking dinging the edges like I did...don't chintz out...use a properly sharp pocket knife, not a mini-screwdriver or plastic edge like I used) and a desolder/resolder, there is some further headway to be made with this rig.
 
Anyhow, this is a CRAZY good rig with CRAZY good synergy. 
 
- Matt
 
 
p.s. even stock, this combo is boss. I tried the Etymotic HF5's with it (a more expensive can, as I got my PX-100's when they were $35 shipped online) and while they do have some more "autistic child putting his ear three inches from the cellists instrument" detail, it was in no way as full-range natural or musical as the PX-100's. Maybe more "technically neutral" but at the cost of LIFE, EMOTION and ART. What's more, the PX-100's have body, natural yet tight bass (or even just have appreciable bass to begin with...I used to have ER-4P's, know the value of Etys and know how to get a great seal, so I was hearing Ety bass...but also of course the HF5's cord noise as well as the creepy sound of my own neck creaking and cracking...yuck...not to mention you absolutely can NOT sing along in Ety's!) 
 
The absolute ENJOYMENT with the PX-100's is and was superior tot the Etymotic HF5 - by far. 
 
Jan 21, 2011 at 9:54 AM Post #3 of 11
Oh geez...no, but it's really easy....just open the Clip+ as per instructions online:
 
http://anythingbutipod.com/2009/08/sandisk-sansa-clip-plus-disassembly/
 
and then as you can see from pictures 11 and 12, the headphone jack has three solder tabs...INTERESTING...in their pictures, those solder tabs have HUGE GOBS of solder...mine had no such gobs. 
 
With gobs that big, you would HAVE to do solder removal...for example with a RadioShack Soldapult, braided wire or (ideally) a Hakko solder removal tool..although I wonder if it would fit in those tight spaces. A sharp pointed 30 watt soldering iron from Harbor Freight (yes, I know 30 watts is far too much for tiny PCB's like this, but I am semi-pro at this, I do pinball PCB repair all the time with a proper soldering station, it's just that this was left at a buddy's house, so I took a bazooka to a gun fight "just this once." Not recommended for newbies to PCB soldering, for sure.)
 
Anyhow, mine definitely did not have those gobs. That would be a whole separate game, for example removing the solder and replacing with higher quality Kester silver solder, etc. 
 
To be honest, I just used some RatShack thick-strand convention crap that I had, but I am telling you the sound was noticeably better. I will not say (what I want to say) that it "exploded," but draw your own conclusions. The sound is more powerful and explosive now, along with far more inner detail and "hearing into the room." A worthy mod, IF your Clip+ has the "wimpy" solder joints (i.e. NOT like the pictures above...for those I have no recommendation beyond your own curiousity and willingness to risk burning your board). 
 
- Matt
 
 
Jan 21, 2011 at 3:12 PM Post #6 of 11
Lol yeah bro you're qualified to facepalm because you've owned a Sansa and some SR-60's...I guess I am the one who is totally outclassed and underexperienced when it comes to audiophilia here. Nice. 
 
Jan 21, 2011 at 3:51 PM Post #7 of 11


Quote:
Lol yeah bro you're qualified to facepalm because you've owned a Sansa and some SR-60's...I guess I am the one who is totally outclassed and underexperienced when it comes to audiophilia here. Nice. 



I've never claimed to be an "audiophile". I did have PX100's with a Clip+, for quite a long time, so I am familiar with the combo......works very well.  I'm just doubtful that what you yourself described as a simple desolder/resolder would make such a difference as you are describing......"significantly improved sound".
 
Jan 21, 2011 at 4:06 PM Post #8 of 11
Yeah, sounds stupid I know. And my apologies for being snarky, but the only thing I can tell you for sure is that the joints on mine were almost "thirsty" for solder and cracked right off with relatively minor torque on them...NOT normal (or at least not a quality joint by any measure). The "why" is all me hypothesizing, may mean nothing for the electrical connection, HOWEVER, I am telling you man...drink the [redacted] kool-aid...I promise I heard a noticeable difference, along with what I believe to be an increase in loudness (now listening at like -10dB on a given song vs. -7dB...for example...volumes may vary song-to-song, of course...
 
Anyways...I am hoping someone else will drink the Kool-Aid and play some favorite/familiar songs. 
 
Oh and I am using this with FLAC files exclusively of course. :D
 
Jan 21, 2011 at 4:09 PM Post #9 of 11
One thing I can add is that I bent the jack's solder tabs DOWN so that they would get a "springlike" pressure against the PCB's solder pads to ensure direct mechanical connection (as per proper soldering procedure). This alone may be what I am hearing. 
 
When I pulled the jack off, the tabs on the jack were "flat" and therefore possibly "floating" off their respective pads. 
 
Jan 21, 2011 at 11:08 PM Post #10 of 11
3-4 months ago my left post solder crack and had to re-solder it as well as reinforce the others when i had it open and the sound it produces did not change, it's all in your head.
 
Jan 22, 2011 at 11:33 AM Post #11 of 11
Placebo effect,...nothing more, nothing less.
 
You may have done an excellent re-soldering job, but improving the SQ - I doubt that very much. Unless the connections were faulty, which would mean it now sounds the way it was supposed to in the first place. 
 
Otherwise, it's the wrong koolaid to drink bro,...
 

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