I was looking at possibly socketing the output transistors for easier potential swapping. Would TO220 sockets like
these ones work? And if so, would there be any disadvantage/detriment to using them?
If the sockets would work, is there any safe, reasonable way to hookup the output transistors temporarily for testing purposes? Could I just wrap wire around the leads and cover with electrical tape? And is there a reasonable way to connect the wires to the board without soldering? Could I just wrap around the board edge since it's so close and doesn't look like there's anything in the way? I don't mind desoldering simple wire too much, but the less desoldering I have to do the better.
Similar question for the rest of the wiring. Would I be able to just wrap wire around the lugs and cover with electrical tape? Basically I want to test everything before placing an order for a few things I forgot (particularly heatshrink, and those sockets if they work) in case I need to replace anything and again, the less desoldering the better.
For a couple general wiring questions, just wanted to confirm, are these diagrams correct for wiring the switches (4PDT for output on left, basic schematic in middle, DPDT for input on right)? These are the switches I went with:
4PDT output,
DPDT input. For the 4PDT output diagram, is the PCB ground specified supposed to be the output ground pad or the star ground? Would having the pre-amp selected also float noise to the headphones and thus I should also wire the headphone outs to the ground throws (like the grey lines)?
And also, since I am using switches for 2 inputs and 2 outputs, where would each of the grounds go? Would the default (headphone for output, RCA for input) go to the ground pad and the extra (RCA Pre for output, 3.5mm for input) go to the star ground? Or would I want both of each going to their respective ground pads? Or should both of each go directly to the star ground? Or wire the grounds in parallel and then go to the respective ground pad? Also partially confused since for output there's a single ground pad and the extra RCA Pre has 2 (R/L) grounds needed, and for input there's 2 ground pads and the extra 3.5mm has one ground needed.
Hope I didn't screw up the wording too much, first DIY projects >.>. Thanks again.
Thanks again.I was looking at possibly socketing the output transistors for easier potential swapping. Would TO220 sockets like these ones work? And if so, would there be any disadvantage/detriment to using them?
If the sockets would work, is there any safe, reasonable way to hookup the output transistors temporarily for testing purposes? Could I just wrap wire around the leads and cover with electrical tape? And is there a reasonable way to connect the wires to the board without soldering? I don't mind desoldering simple wire too much, but the less I have to do the better.
Similar question for the rest of the wiring. Would I be able to just wrap wire around the lugs and cover with electrical tape? Basically I want to test everything before placing an order for a few things I forgot (which includes heatshrink, and those sockets if they work) in case I need to replace anything.
For a couple general wiring questions, just wanted to confirm, are these diagrams correct for wiring the switches (4PDT for output on left, basic schematic in middle, DPDT for input on right)? These are the switches I went with: 4PDT output, DPDT input. For the 4PDT output diagram, is the PCB ground specified supposed to be the output ground pad or the star ground? Would having the pre-amp selected also float noise to the headphones and thus I should also wire the headphone outs to the ground throws?
And also, since I am using switches for 2 inputs and 2 outputs, where would each of the grounds go? Would the default (headphone for output, RCA for input) go to the ground pad and the extra (RCA Pre for output, 3.5mm for input) go to the star ground? Or would I want both of each going to their respective ground pads? Or should both of each go directly to the star ground? Or add them onto the switch? Or wire the grounds in parallel and then go to the respective ground pad?
Thanks again.I was looking at possibly socketing the output transistors for easier potential swapping. Would TO220 sockets like these ones work? And if so, would there be any disadvantage/detriment to using them?
If the sockets would work, is there any safe, reasonable way to hookup the output transistors temporarily for testing purposes? Could I just wrap wire around the leads and cover with electrical tape? And is there a reasonable way to connect the wires to the board without soldering? I don't mind desoldering simple wire too much, but the less I have to do the better.
Similar question for the rest of the wiring. Would I be able to just wrap wire around the lugs and cover with electrical tape? Basically I want to test everything before placing an order for a few things I forgot (which includes heatshrink, and those sockets if they work) in case I need to replace anything.
For a couple general wiring questions, just wanted to confirm, are these diagrams correct for wiring the switches (4PDT for output on left, basic schematic in middle, DPDT for input on right)? These are the switches I went with: 4PDT output, DPDT input. For the 4PDT output diagram, is the PCB ground specified supposed to be the output ground pad or the star ground? Would having the pre-amp selected also float noise to the headphones and thus I should also wire the headphone outs to the ground throws?
And also, since I am using switches for 2 inputs and 2 outputs, where would each of the grounds go? Would the default (headphone for output, RCA for input) go to the ground pad and the extra (RCA Pre for output, 3.5mm for input) go to the star ground? Or would I want both of each going to their respective ground pads? Or should both of each go directly to the star ground? Or add them onto the switch? Or wire the grounds in parallel and then go to the respective ground pad?
Thanks again.