Chord Mojo DAC-amp ☆★►FAQ in 3rd post!◄★☆
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heliuscc

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Some kind soul mentioned a pelican case that can take AK100 mojo stack and a set of IEMs. I know it's somewhere within 500 pages...
 
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Mython

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post-12252666
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Ike1985

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It seems that while charging and playing mojo continues to gain charge-in they words it uses less than it takes in-at least with my 64 audio ADEL A12's which will be my last ciem. Now to get those adjustable modules, it'll be interesting to see how they interact with mojo. Mojo soundstage is *DEEP* and A12's have a massive soundstage for ciem's-similar to open back headphones, they are essentially an open back ciem. I was in the right place at the right time, getting into this hobby. I like companies that push the limit and make new tech, thus 64 audio and chord with their products, if I had gotten in just a little bit earlier I know I would have wanted both of these. It's nice to know I only had to buy one ciem and one dac and I won't be buying a dap since I can do every format from a smartphone with mojo. Maybe someday I'll get a pair of actual headphones but I doubt it.
 
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post-12252758
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Pokersound

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Hi friends.
 
I am very interested in Mojo, I'm going to buy it very soon and think that going to used mainly with my Samsung Galaxy S5.
 
Could you recommend me one cable that can be buy it though Amazon?
 
If you can give me the link will be wonderful.
 
Thank you very much.
 
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mscott58

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Hi friends.

I am very interested in Mojo, I'm going to buy it very soon and think that going to used mainly with my Samsung Galaxy S5.

Could you recommend me one cable that can be buy it though Amazon?

If you can give me the link will be wonderful.

Thank you very much.

Do believe that's covered in post #3. Cheers
 
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post-12253775
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San Man

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  It comes off easily (without any residue) from AK's case compared to Mojo's surface. I had to remove the stack after 2 months of use, to RMA the Mojo.
What did you end up using to remove the residue from the mojo?
 
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music4mhell

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I am enjoying Mojo with my Genelec Speakers from last 5 days :)
 
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post-12254459
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salla45

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For me, it's a simple matter of practicality. Engineering a device the size of a matchbox to make a 600 OHM headphone sing does nothing for anyone except sales reps at the booths at audio shows. In real life, nobody is going to strain their neck under a pair of Abyss and plug into something so small that when held in the palm of one's hand it is mistaken for a mole. The vast majority of these micro devices will be used as mobile audiophile solutions, and more often than not will be paired with IEMs. The engineering/tuning of these devices should focus on refinement and perfect pairing for how they will most likely be used, not the ability to make a pair of Stax do backflips in order to impress people at CanJam. 
 
My two cents anyway, heh.
 
I'm happily using it for portable and desktop use; running K3003's and T1's with their 600ohm load. For me it is great to have a single device which works well with both options.
 
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Earbones

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I don't necessarily agree with your statement. I find that devices with more power (Mojo, Lotoo, 901, etc.) sound better with many iems then less powerful ones (AK players, Sony players).
It's not really about agreeing or disagreeing with regards to power vs noise floor... That's just what it is.

As far as how much power is enough for optimal sound, I agree that a bit more power than will ever be needed is the best solution for any speaker... Full size, headphone, IEM, whatever... I believe all benefit from a small allowance over maximum requirement. What I am saying is that with many of these newer tiny mobile devices, there is a point where the power far exceeds what is realistically needed, and this impacts the refinement and noise floor of the device.

Let's say you had some full size B&W Nautilus speakers. Lucky you. But if you hooked them up to whatever amp NASA uses for the shuttle launch speakers, you'd get a polluted noise floor. You don't need to drive truck-sized speakers designed to count down a rocket launch with your home theatre amp, so at that point, the excess power is detrimental to your setup and the overall sound.

When I look at something the size of the Mojo, I don't see a whole lot of people plugging a set of LCD3s into it. Some will, sure. Probably to see if it can drive them, and they'll be impressed when it does. But realistically, that's a parlor trick. There are a plethora of other solutions available for difficult full-size cans.

Basically, I'm pointing out that most cans that are difficult to drive aren't usually used as mobile solutions, and the Mojo is clearly a mobile device. The power required to drive big difficult cans far, far exceeds even the most difficult IEMs by a wide margin. That's why you if you put that power into a sensitive IEM you get a polluted noise floor. But if you throw out the unnecessary ability to drive very difficult full-size cans, draw that power back to just a bit more power than the most difficult IEM will draw, you get improved refinement, a blacker noise floor, and still more power than you'll ever need, meaning whatever improvements the sound from your IEMs may require, it won't be for a lack of power.

In my estimation, this makes more sense for how something like the Mojo will most likely be really used.
 
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Dobrescu George

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It's not really about agreeing or disagreeing with regards to power vs noise floor... That's just what it is.

As far as how much power is enough for optimal sound, I agree that a bit more power than will ever be needed is the best solution for any speaker... Full size, headphone, IEM, whatever... I believe all benefit from a small allowance over maximum requirement. What I am saying is that with many of these newer tiny mobile devices, there is a point where the power far exceeds what is realistically needed, and this impacts the refinement and noise floor of the device.

Let's say you had some full size B&W Nautilus speakers. Lucky you. But if you hooked them up to whatever amp NASA uses for the shuttle launch speakers, you'd get a polluted noise floor. You don't need to drive truck-sized speakers designed to count down a rocket launch with your home theatre amp, so at that point, the excess power is detrimental to your setup and the overall sound.

When I look at something the size of the Mojo, I don't see a whole lot of people plugging a set of LCD3s into it. Some will, sure. Probably to see if it can drive them, and they'll be impressed when it does. But realistically, that's a parlor trick. There are a plethora of other solutions available for difficult full-size cans.

Basically, I'm pointing out that most cans that are difficult to drive aren't usually used as mobile solutions, and the Mojo is clearly a mobile device. The power required to drive big difficult cans far, far exceeds even the most difficult IEMs by a wide margin. That's why you if you put that power into a sensitive IEM you get a polluted noise floor. But if you throw out the unnecessary ability to drive very difficult full-size cans, draw that power back to just a bit more power than the most difficult IEM will draw, you get improved refinement, a blacker noise floor, and still more power than you'll ever need, meaning whatever improvements the sound from your IEMs may require, it won't be for a lack of power.

In my estimation, this makes more sense for how something like the Mojo will most likely be really used.
I kinda agree with you here, with one exception. There is still a need for a portable amp for HD800. As much as LCD3 will need desktop amps every single time to sound to full potential, I do think that driving HD800 while on the go is important. This being said, over 90% people will be using mojo with either IEMs or rather portable headphones. 
 
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joshk4

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I kinda agree with you here, with one exception. There is still a need for a portable amp for HD800. As much as LCD3 will need desktop amps every single time to sound to full potential, I do think that driving HD800 while on the go is important. This being said, over 90% people will be using mojo with either IEMs or rather portable headphones. 

I'm not sure why there is a need for hd 800 and not other headphones?

Also, isn't there already portable dac/amp that can drive the hd 800 nicely?
 
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mathi8vadhanan

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  It comes off easily (without any residue) from AK's case compared to Mojo's surface. I had to remove the stack after 2 months of use, to RMA the Mojo.
What did you end up using to remove the residue from the mojo?
It did not leave a lot. I was able to just wipe it away with a zeiss wet wipe, I used for glasses and lenses.
 
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EagleWings

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Here are a couple of methods how you can remove the residue. But it is not guaranteed that it will work all the time because of the difference in the glue and eraser materials. Note, this only applies if the residue layer is just glue and not the tape material.
 
Method 1:
 
1. If the top surface of the residue is still sticky apply a small amount of talcum powder (or Gold Bond powder) to cover it up very lightly.
2. With an eraser (preferably a fat one and not the ones found on the back of mechanical pencils), try to rub off the residue until the glue starts coming off.
3. Sometimes adding a small drop of water helps. But sometimes it can make it worse by only removing the talcum powder off the top sticky layer. What you can do is experiment on one corner and use the effective method on the rest of the area.
 
Method 2:
 
1. Take a layer fine cotton cloth (preferably knitted and not woven) and wrap it against your finger. Your finger should be pressing hard against the cloth.
2. Apply some water on this layer and rub it against the glue residue. It is okay if the top layer of the residue is still sticky.
3. Once the area of the cloth is tainted with glue. Move your finger to a fresh area of the cloth to rub again. 
 
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Ike1985

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I love when mojo light is blue, if there was a way to make it blue all the time I would
 
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post-12255457
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vapman

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Can you use this as just a DAC if you do the press both volume buttons to set it to line level? the two 3.5mm's will both act as line out?
 
is it clear when it's set to line level so i don't blow up my IEMs and ears if I forget?
 
i want to use this both as a portable amp and my new home DAC i think. I love my current DAC but it was not terribly expensive when it came out, it is equivalent to a Schiit Modi 2 as they use the same DAC chip, but I have been looking to upgrade, and if the DAC on this sounds as nice as people say it does i would like to use it in my home stereo.
 
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