Chop-Top
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Try this first...Jameco 1953612
Chord Electronics Qutest DAC - Official Thread
- Thread starter ChordElectronics
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Try this first...Jameco 1953612
ra990
Headphoneus Supremus
I believe Rob Watts has recommended a good battery pack over linear PS (the linear PS will also void warranty).
What does a linear PS get you that the battery won't, other than alleviating the need to recharge the battery every once in a while?
What does a linear PS get you that the battery won't, other than alleviating the need to recharge the battery every once in a while?
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Chop-Top
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Joe-Siow
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Pretty sure using an LPS does not void the Qutest; it is not stated on the manual
However, the opposite is true for the M Scaler with Chord stating pretty clearly on the manual on the manual that any PSU other than the stock on will void the warranty
However, the opposite is true for the M Scaler with Chord stating pretty clearly on the manual on the manual that any PSU other than the stock on will void the warranty
odessamarin
100+ Head-Fier
I am also thought this way, but it's not that simple.
Power bank inside will have circuit to stabilize 5V from LI-Ion..
And in many cases it's crap.. a lot of noise and non linearity. At the end it was deigned to recharge our gadgets and not for hi-fi audio components.
So, not that easy... still good switching supply or LPS is the way to go here.
I heard many good words about this.. and it costs nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=MeanWell,+RS-15-5&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
Ragnar-BY
1000+ Head-Fier
You can try this thing:
https://www.russandrews.com/eu/x4-block-euro/
Russ offers 60 days moneyback, so you can try and see if it helps. I have Russ Andrews X6 and it had great effect on Qutest`s sound.
odessamarin
100+ Head-Fier
It's likely problem with coax (BNC) connection it this case. Can you try optical input and see if it's better? pauses should gone.
If so, then i would try other digital cable maybe, if you need coax interface.
Other thing to check how good grounds connected in your gears..
Thanks for all your replys and suggestions this really is a great forum.
I would like to describe my system and power supplies in some more detail as this may be useful to get to the bottom of this problem.
Firstly my system comprises of a Modwright Oppo 205 which has the TV and computer (for Amazon prime) fed through it, all music is CD direct from Oppo, digital coaxial cable out, M- scaler connected with supplied cables into Quetest- ARC REF3 preamp with one SE output split to Croft 7R monoblocks for
bass section of T Gravsen DTQWT III speakers and an Elekit 8100 flea watt amp driving the MT section of the DTQWT III speakers, the second SE output from the REF3 drives the rear speakers using a Quad 606.
When the M-scaler and Quetest are not in the chain the pauses in play back disappear.
Power supplies are two cables direct from the consumer unit one into a Furman conditioner and the other to a standard power strip, both of these have a 20 amp switches connected so the system can be switched on using just two switches ( high WAF) .
A while ago a third direct line was added for the REF 3 as I started to get brown outs which were detected by the REF3 and it would automatically shut down, I installed a Sollatek voltage stabilizer for the REF3 which cured the problem , I did try the Quetest and M-scaler conected to the Solatek but it made no difference.
None of the things which cause these pauses in playback are on the HIFI eletrical circuit but everything that causes the pauses is in close proximity, for example the fridge nearest the system (other side of partiton wall) is the one that causes pauses, the house is divided into our living area, a studio and a two bed apartment so on site we have 7 fridges and freezers in total . The light switches which cause pauses in playback are also the closest ones to the system, when tennants are in they must be using light switches but they do not cause problems.
From the suggestions so far I am thinking of going from least expensive upwards to see what happens.
I have ordered an optical cable as a lets see if it works (nice 'n' cheap), if no dice there i'll try the 5V battery next. Some time ago I had a borrowed Hugo TT with its internal battery and experienced no problems either with or without it plugged into the mains, so I would like to ask those of you who use a battery pack if you leave it on trickle charge whilst it is being used or is it always drained then recharged. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Hugo TT worked from the battery all the time and it made no difference if it was plugged into the wall (may be wrong about that), I certainly could not detect a difference in sound quality either way, and the owner said likewise. My concerns are to get rid of the problem and have an easy to use wife friendly system (no battery charging if possible) if I get sound improvements in SQ they are a bonus .
If all the above fails then I guess I'm left with the PSU option ( most expensive).
Thanks again for all your input I shall let you know what works and if anyone has an A'HA moment from any of the info above please post it up.
I would like to describe my system and power supplies in some more detail as this may be useful to get to the bottom of this problem.
Firstly my system comprises of a Modwright Oppo 205 which has the TV and computer (for Amazon prime) fed through it, all music is CD direct from Oppo, digital coaxial cable out, M- scaler connected with supplied cables into Quetest- ARC REF3 preamp with one SE output split to Croft 7R monoblocks for
bass section of T Gravsen DTQWT III speakers and an Elekit 8100 flea watt amp driving the MT section of the DTQWT III speakers, the second SE output from the REF3 drives the rear speakers using a Quad 606.
When the M-scaler and Quetest are not in the chain the pauses in play back disappear.
Power supplies are two cables direct from the consumer unit one into a Furman conditioner and the other to a standard power strip, both of these have a 20 amp switches connected so the system can be switched on using just two switches ( high WAF) .
A while ago a third direct line was added for the REF 3 as I started to get brown outs which were detected by the REF3 and it would automatically shut down, I installed a Sollatek voltage stabilizer for the REF3 which cured the problem , I did try the Quetest and M-scaler conected to the Solatek but it made no difference.
None of the things which cause these pauses in playback are on the HIFI eletrical circuit but everything that causes the pauses is in close proximity, for example the fridge nearest the system (other side of partiton wall) is the one that causes pauses, the house is divided into our living area, a studio and a two bed apartment so on site we have 7 fridges and freezers in total . The light switches which cause pauses in playback are also the closest ones to the system, when tennants are in they must be using light switches but they do not cause problems.
From the suggestions so far I am thinking of going from least expensive upwards to see what happens.
I have ordered an optical cable as a lets see if it works (nice 'n' cheap), if no dice there i'll try the 5V battery next. Some time ago I had a borrowed Hugo TT with its internal battery and experienced no problems either with or without it plugged into the mains, so I would like to ask those of you who use a battery pack if you leave it on trickle charge whilst it is being used or is it always drained then recharged. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Hugo TT worked from the battery all the time and it made no difference if it was plugged into the wall (may be wrong about that), I certainly could not detect a difference in sound quality either way, and the owner said likewise. My concerns are to get rid of the problem and have an easy to use wife friendly system (no battery charging if possible) if I get sound improvements in SQ they are a bonus .
If all the above fails then I guess I'm left with the PSU option ( most expensive).
Thanks again for all your input I shall let you know what works and if anyone has an A'HA moment from any of the info above please post it up.
odessamarin
100+ Head-Fier
My TT is always connected to adapter..
Ragnar-BY
1000+ Head-Fier
@cotic54
Well, Furman should be ok. Although, it’s strange that with power filter and voltage stabilizer you still have your gear reacting to lights and everything. The fact that different parts of your system are powered by separate power lines - might be not ok.
If I were you, I would try to:
- buy better BNC cables. Most obvious thing. Some of owners here, including me, had different cable related issues with the stock cables.
- ground all components to one point
A test with optical between M Scaler and DAC, suggested by odessamarin, is a good way to understand if stock cables causes the problem.
Well, Furman should be ok. Although, it’s strange that with power filter and voltage stabilizer you still have your gear reacting to lights and everything. The fact that different parts of your system are powered by separate power lines - might be not ok.
If I were you, I would try to:
- buy better BNC cables. Most obvious thing. Some of owners here, including me, had different cable related issues with the stock cables.
- ground all components to one point
A test with optical between M Scaler and DAC, suggested by odessamarin, is a good way to understand if stock cables causes the problem.
@cotic54
Your light switch scenario actually is happening w me as well in my bedroom tv setup. Thats why ive suggested a dedicated power line for your system. The reason these things happen, it might be the electrician’s mistake, the lines of that particular switch/fridge crosses, or in the same main electricity line with the one used for your audio. They need to be “separated”.
Your light switch scenario actually is happening w me as well in my bedroom tv setup. Thats why ive suggested a dedicated power line for your system. The reason these things happen, it might be the electrician’s mistake, the lines of that particular switch/fridge crosses, or in the same main electricity line with the one used for your audio. They need to be “separated”.
Mr. Rob,
I have my cd transport connected via optical at my Qutest.I am thinking of adding my PS4 through an optical adapter to one of the BNC inputs.Will this connection deteriorate the sound I hear from my transport?
I mean,will this connection add noise or distortion to the unit when it is not selected?
Thank you in advance!
I have my cd transport connected via optical at my Qutest.I am thinking of adding my PS4 through an optical adapter to one of the BNC inputs.Will this connection deteriorate the sound I hear from my transport?
I mean,will this connection add noise or distortion to the unit when it is not selected?
Thank you in advance!
Rob Watts
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If it locks you are good to go. I have used optical switchers before and they work well. I can't see it degrading the sound, but you can always do an AB listening test to make sure.
Thank you,but I think I didn't explain correctly.
The Playstation will be connected via BNC to Qutest.Will this connection affect the sound from my CD transport when I listen to it(connected through optical)?I mean,will it add grounding noise to my optical input?
I wouldn’t think so since optical is immune from such disturbances.
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