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Chord Electronics Qutest DAC - Official Thread

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  1. Zzt231gr
    Are you sure this isn't brightness?
     
  2. Qute Beats
    Actual interruptions to the music sounds quite severe. I've never had such a problem and like kerisabe said above a dedicated power line should fix, but may not be practical. A battery would do the trick, but if using usb/coaxial connection you still have an electrical connection from you source, so also try an optical link if you can. Failing that a power conditioner should improve things. I use iFi's AC Puifier to quieten down mains noise, not expensive and you could sell on or return if not doing what you want.
     
  3. dinus777
    i think i'm sure. And the sound is just somehow cleaner, cleaner highs as well, without harshness. And in midrange more details, better separation, depth between instruments, and voises pushed front. This is how i feel it with my system : Audirvana 3.5 + Mac mini late 2014 + Sysconcept optical + Qutest + Naim 5SI + ProAC D20R
     
  4. Zzt231gr
    Sounds like a noticeable improvement!I think I must give it a try...
     
  5. Chop-Top
    Try this first...Jameco 1953612
     
  6. ra990
    I believe Rob Watts has recommended a good battery pack over linear PS (the linear PS will also void warranty).

    What does a linear PS get you that the battery won't, other than alleviating the need to recharge the battery every once in a while?
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2019
  7. Chop-Top
     
    ra990 likes this.
  8. Joe-Siow
    Pretty sure using an LPS does not void the Qutest; it is not stated on the manual

    However, the opposite is true for the M Scaler with Chord stating pretty clearly on the manual on the manual that any PSU other than the stock on will void the warranty
     
  9. odessamarin
    I am also thought this way, but it's not that simple.
    Power bank inside will have circuit to stabilize 5V from LI-Ion..
    And in many cases it's crap.. a lot of noise and non linearity. At the end it was deigned to recharge our gadgets and not for hi-fi audio components.
    So, not that easy... still good switching supply or LPS is the way to go here.
    I heard many good words about this.. and it costs nothing.

    upload_2019-7-4_9-25-51.png
    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=MeanWell,+RS-15-5&ref=nb_sb_noss_2
     
    blueninjasix likes this.
  10. Ragnar-BY
    You can try this thing:
    https://www.russandrews.com/eu/x4-block-euro/
    Russ offers 60 days moneyback, so you can try and see if it helps. I have Russ Andrews X6 and it had great effect on Qutest`s sound.
     
  11. odessamarin
    It's likely problem with coax (BNC) connection it this case. Can you try optical input and see if it's better? pauses should gone.
    If so, then i would try other digital cable maybe, if you need coax interface.
    Other thing to check how good grounds connected in your gears..
     
    Ragnar-BY likes this.
  12. cotic54
    Thanks for all your replys and suggestions this really is a great forum.

    I would like to describe my system and power supplies in some more detail as this may be useful to get to the bottom of this problem.

    Firstly my system comprises of a Modwright Oppo 205 which has the TV and computer (for Amazon prime) fed through it, all music is CD direct from Oppo, digital coaxial cable out, M- scaler connected with supplied cables into Quetest- ARC REF3 preamp with one SE output split to Croft 7R monoblocks for
    bass section of T Gravsen DTQWT III speakers and an Elekit 8100 flea watt amp driving the MT section of the DTQWT III speakers, the second SE output from the REF3 drives the rear speakers using a Quad 606.
    When the M-scaler and Quetest are not in the chain the pauses in play back disappear.

    Power supplies are two cables direct from the consumer unit one into a Furman conditioner and the other to a standard power strip, both of these have a 20 amp switches connected so the system can be switched on using just two switches ( high WAF) .

    A while ago a third direct line was added for the REF 3 as I started to get brown outs which were detected by the REF3 and it would automatically shut down, I installed a Sollatek voltage stabilizer for the REF3 which cured the problem , I did try the Quetest and M-scaler conected to the Solatek but it made no difference.
    None of the things which cause these pauses in playback are on the HIFI eletrical circuit but everything that causes the pauses is in close proximity, for example the fridge nearest the system (other side of partiton wall) is the one that causes pauses, the house is divided into our living area, a studio and a two bed apartment so on site we have 7 fridges and freezers in total . The light switches which cause pauses in playback are also the closest ones to the system, when tennants are in they must be using light switches but they do not cause problems.

    From the suggestions so far I am thinking of going from least expensive upwards to see what happens.

    I have ordered an optical cable as a lets see if it works (nice 'n' cheap), if no dice there i'll try the 5V battery next. Some time ago I had a borrowed Hugo TT with its internal battery and experienced no problems either with or without it plugged into the mains, so I would like to ask those of you who use a battery pack if you leave it on trickle charge whilst it is being used or is it always drained then recharged. I seem to remember reading somewhere that the Hugo TT worked from the battery all the time and it made no difference if it was plugged into the wall (may be wrong about that), I certainly could not detect a difference in sound quality either way, and the owner said likewise. My concerns are to get rid of the problem and have an easy to use wife friendly system (no battery charging if possible) if I get sound improvements in SQ they are a bonus .

    If all the above fails then I guess I'm left with the PSU option ( most expensive).

    Thanks again for all your input I shall let you know what works and if anyone has an A'HA moment from any of the info above please post it up.
     
    Zzt231gr and Qute Beats like this.
  13. odessamarin
    My TT is always connected to adapter..
     
    Ragnar-BY likes this.
  14. Ragnar-BY
    @cotic54

    Well, Furman should be ok. Although, it’s strange that with power filter and voltage stabilizer you still have your gear reacting to lights and everything. The fact that different parts of your system are powered by separate power lines - might be not ok.

    If I were you, I would try to:
    - buy better BNC cables. Most obvious thing. Some of owners here, including me, had different cable related issues with the stock cables.
    - ground all components to one point

    A test with optical between M Scaler and DAC, suggested by odessamarin, is a good way to understand if stock cables causes the problem.
     
    odessamarin likes this.
  15. kerisabe
    @cotic54

    Your light switch scenario actually is happening w me as well in my bedroom tv setup. Thats why ive suggested a dedicated power line for your system. The reason these things happen, it might be the electrician’s mistake, the lines of that particular switch/fridge crosses, or in the same main electricity line with the one used for your audio. They need to be “separated”.
     
    Ragnar-BY likes this.
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