[Zerohour88]

I actually was thinking about it, but saw a lot of comments on the amazon page it doesnt work good with android devices (as it is made for apple devices) so I skipped it.

I've tested the Q1 Mark II with a Galaxy S5, Xiaomi Mi4 and LG V20, had no issues with any of them. Mostly used either Onkyo player or HibyMusic app (this is usually the source of most problems on Android). No idea on streaming such as Spotify or Tidal though, no one had them on their phone.

There's also the NX4 DSD if you need more power on unbalanced port, but it does costs a bit more (justified, at least). The SMSL IQ (built-in battery) or Sabaj DA3 (no battery) are also good, but durability remains to be seen:

https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...baj-da3-dac-compared-to-dragonfly-black.3503/

 

[RedJohn456]

Guys, venture electronics just released the VE Odyssey, a portable amp dac, and it's gonna be hype! Will post impressions in the official thread https://www.head-fi.org/threads/ve-odyssey-official-discussions-and-impressions-threat.886989/ and here as well! It is supposed to be compatible with a WIDE variety of android devices

 

[FunkeXMix]

@FarCry, that's some really dope music right there.

Firstly, i am not a treble sensitive person hence i dont find them too harsh however its still abit fatiguing to listen to the whole of the Enya song. Sibilance is not an issue imo. (Edit: i was listening to song other songs and the "S" sound emerge, hmmmm)

Overall presentation is clear and detailed, with good layering of music. That's all i can say for now but it really gives a new dimension listining to my favourite songs

The "S" sound is coming from an overly compressed music file used in that Enya youtube video. Judge music from proper sources or results will be unreliable. FLAC or mp3 320kb/s music files.

 

[Slater]

The "S" sound is coming from an overly compressed music file used in that Enya youtube video. Judge music from proper sources or results will be unreliable. FLAC or mp3 320kb/s music files.

 

[nraymond]

I think I will go with the FX Audio DAC-X6, it gets tons of good reviews, Z Reviews recommended it. Seems like its a very nice dac and if I will upgrade in the future I will need to upgrade the amp only and connect it to the DAC-X6. It also has free shipping from amazon to my country which is awesome.

If you have the extra money, the Topping D30 + A30 is a better DAC/amp combo. D30 review here:

https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/topping-d30-dac-measurement-and-review.2016/

There's a Topping D30/A30 drop going on right now, for those interested:

https://www.massdrop.com/buy/topping-d30-dac?mode=guest_open

 

[slapo]

I do find both the S.M.S.L. M3 and the Sabaj D3 to be really nice. I don't crank volume up much and I haven't been able to observe any noticeable distortion from either of them.
Both seem about on par and somehow, instrument separation and overall clarity seems quite noticeably better than cheap USB DACs/sound cards (e. g. CSL USB mini sound card, the not so cheap XtremPro X1...).

 

[Zerohour88]

I do find both the S.M.S.L. M3 and the Sabaj D3 to be really nice. I don't crank volume up much and I haven't been able to observe any noticeable distortion from either of them.
Both seem about on par and somehow, instrument separation and overall clarity seems quite noticeably better than cheap USB DACs/sound cards (e. g. CSL USB mini sound card, the not so cheap XtremPro X1...).

that XtremPro X1 should be the same as this:

https://audiosciencereview.com/foru...-speaka-usb-dac-and-headphone-amplifier.2423/

for sub $40, that's not too bad. Though I do wonder how it fares against the Weiliang/Breeze Audio SE4 (ES9028Q2M DAC, SA9226 USB controller), also sub $40. Very good build quality, and mostly fuss-free installation/usage for Windows and Android.

had some distortion with my SHP9500 initially, turns out it was just the crappy volume control for the OEM boompro cable. More than enough power to blow out my ears

 

[audionab]

.

 

[Joong]

.

Hum... You like completeness as do I.

 

[audionab]

Hum... You like completeness as do I.

posted in wrong thread

 

[ctgchaos]

The driver was seriously damaged. See all the small dents on the edges and large hole at the center dome. this is how it looks like now
I could not fix the center part fully because every time I popped up those two dents two more would appear on another side of the dome!

Good news is that the fix was a success to some extent anyway. Membrane is now stable so no more driver flex when pushing the cups. Most important thing is that the mids are now 100% centered. Bass is heavier on the right side at 70-190hz but that might be because driver was not glued back properly. There is another channel imbalance somewhere above 10khz but that might have been there allready.

The soundstage is as big as people say. Really impressive. Bass is prominent, mids recessed, highs laid back with adequate sparkle and detail.

So quite good, definately better than bosshifi b7 etc... However I paid about 45€ for these. Headphones got stuck in customs so that was 9€ more. So about 55€ total. Not bad headphones for that price. Thing is Sony mdr-100aap can be had for 80€ in eu and atleast based on my early impressions sony's are clearly superior. So yeah... kind of mixed feelings. I'll post more thorough impressions when I have the time. I'm focusing on another headphone review at the moment.

What type of glue would be required to reaffix the assembly?

 

[Slater]

What type of glue would be required to reaffix the assembly?

Contact Cement or (even better) Aleene’s Tack It Over.

 

[Roderick]

What type of glue would be required to reaffix the assembly?

I use just some generic glue that is ment for plastic etc. Gooy stuff takes while to harden. It is good because of I spill it I can just push the glue off the wrong place.

Runny superglues are tricky. If it goes to the wrong place there is nothing one can do about it. Also those kind of glues have more of those potentilly driver ruining fumes.

 

[Slater]

I use just some generic glue that is ment for plastic etc. Gooy stuff takes while to harden. It is good because of I spill it I can just push the glue off the wrong place.

Runny superglues are tricky. If it goes to the wrong place there is nothing one can do about it. Also those kind of glues have more of those potentilly driver ruining fumes.

Yes, superglue near any kind of driver = bad bad bad

Heck, in addition to the stuff I listed in my above post, I've also used Elmer's white glue, Gorilla glue, 2-part fast setting epoxy, and UV-activated adhesive. Really anything BUT super glue.

It just depended on what adhesive I had on hand, how permanent I needed it to be, how expensive the headphone was, if I was planning on taking it back apart later, etc.

 

[Roderick]

It's tricky recommending stuff like glues foams etc since this is a global forum. Sometimes I get recommened "buy that red stuff from wallmart". There's only the atlantic ocean between me and the nearest wallmart. Actually since I live 100km from russian border there is actually whole europe between me and the atlantic. Anyway...

Would be cool If people recommend brand stuff available globally. Then one can find a corresponding item on their local market. Like @Slater mentioned gorilla glue. Easy to Google The properties and then buy something similar If original is not available.

Talking about gorillas... I bought gorilla tape while ago. I intended to apply a ring of tape on the outer edge of a malfunctioning driver. Sadly the tape is so sticky that I could not cut it to a proper shape. For whatever the reason the driver has too much pistonic movement causing the voice coil rattle. I had previously fixed it with bluetack but as it hardens over time it needs to be replaced.