Is there any battery life protection when you leave it plugged in, so people who use it as a desktop dac/amp don’t have 0 battery life left after a year if they leave it plugged in to use it as a desktop unit most of the time? It would be nice if it could detect when it is in desktop mode and have a mode thay keeps the battery between 50-80% charge to preserve the battery, I think the Mojo 2 does this.
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Can you handle the Beast! Introducing the iDSD Diablo 2!!
- Thread starter iFi audio
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Is there any battery life protection when you leave it plugged in, so people who use it as a desktop dac/amp don’t have 0 battery life left after a year if they leave it plugged in to use it as a desktop unit most of the time? It would be nice if it could detect when it is in desktop mode and have a mode thay keeps the battery between 50-80% charge to preserve the battery, I think the Mojo 2 does this.
The official response to this question will be interesting.
On the original Diablo iFi said it runs on battery all the time even when plugged in, but later acknowledged in the Diablo thread that connecting it to a power supply will effect the power management.
The designer (Thorsten) also indicated that the original Diablo original does indeed have a proper desktop mode as you describe above. My observations when running the original Diablo off a power supply indicate that it goes into a desktop mode.
It would be reasonable to expect that feature would have been carried over to the Diablo 2, surely.
Very disappointed. I thought the new model would implement a better potentiometer to fix the channel imbalance under low volume.
Abdullah Alzahrani
Head-Fier
How much ?
And is there any difference in x bass than previous generation.
And is there any difference in x bass than previous generation.
Just got started with this thread. I'm pleased with the original Diablo. The new one for $1300? Yikes! What features justify this, aside from inflation?
iPaintCode
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More so inflation and cosmetics.
That is what the different gain modes are for.............Very disappointed. I thought the new model would implement a better potentiometer to fix the channel imbalance under low volume.
That is what the different gain modes are for.............
Except the lowest available gain appears to be higher than the previous Diablos Eco mode.
I think iFi are figuring on people using the IEMatch to counter any issues with excessive gain and/or channel imbalance but of course a lot of people dislike IEMatch saying it squashes the dynamics.
I am sure it will sell out sufficiently well regardless of all the criticisms over design choices that folks here are expressing.
lowrider007
100+ Head-Fier
As said, people vastly overestimate how much power they need. That doesn't excuse misleading marketing.
As to the Tungsten, it's not outright harder to drive than Susvara, it requires a fair bit less current, but requires more gain. Just different requirements.
Agreed, I've been trying to explain this to my friend recently, all too often we get caught up in the need for more power and before you know it we're looking at 7w amps to power sensitive iems/headphones!
Look at the power budget charts at the bottom of the page here from Qudelix, you can power headphones like the DT1990 and HD600 to ear damaging levels before clipping @ 80mW! (single-ended).
I swear one day I'm going to a CanJam with a great big slab of aluminium box with gorgeous machined volume dial, and inside will be a little dongle hooked up to the front panel, a few weights inside to give it some extra heft, and then sit back and enjoy the feedback.
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flyte3333
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@iFi audio Is the volume control using a potentiometer ? The usual channel imbalance issues as with all iDSDs in the past ?
Or using a volume chip like Neo iDSD for perfect channel balance?
Or using a volume chip like Neo iDSD for perfect channel balance?
@iFi audio Is the volume control using a potentiometer ? The usual channel imbalance issues as with all iDSDs in the past ?
Or using a volume chip like Neo iDSD for perfect channel balance?

Thorsten Loesch
Member of the Trade: Studio RaumklanG, Studio Cocktail
Agreed, I've been trying to explain this to my friend recently, all too often we get caught up in the need for more power and before you know it we're looking at 7w amps to power sensitive iems/headphones!
The extremely wide range of sensitivity between IEM's and hard to dive 'CAN's is indeed a major PITA for HP Amp designers.
Imagine you design an engine and gearbox plus accelerator pedal that on one side will be used in a super light 3 wheeler that will go 121mph with 10 Horsepowers and also in a big Train Locomotive where it will only go 83mph with 3000 Horsepower and you want to get to 105 mph speed in both and you want control over speed.
That is the range between say a Campfire Andro and an HE-6 from Hifiman. No engine designer would even take the job.
One of the misleading issues in Headphones is to quote "power" as opposed to voltage.
1mW/16R is 0.125V and needs a noise level of less than 1.25uV (0.00000125V) to get 100dB SNR at 1mW.
If our IEM is 120dB/mW this is already WAY too loud.
1mW/50R is 0.223V and needs a noise level of less than 22.3uV (0.0000223) to get 80dB SNR at 1mW.
If our Planar Headphone is 83.5dB/1mW we need 14V to get to 120dB and can tolerate 140uV noise for 100dB SNR.
For a 16 Ohm rated headphone Amplifier 14V @ 16 Ohm is 12,250mW.
1mW/600R is 0.775V and needs a noise level of less 77.5uV (0.0000775V) to get 80dB SNR at 1mW.
If our headphone is 88dB/1mW (600 ohm AKG K-240M) we need 30V to get 120dB and can tolerate 300uV noise for 100dB SNR.
For a 16 Ohm rated headphone Amplifier 30V @ 16 Ohm is 56,250mW (56W!).
So in theory we need a 56W/16 Ohm amplifier with a SNR (re full power) of 147dB to cover the whole range in a single device.
Generally speaking, it is not easy to make either a compact very powerful linear amplifier or alternatively very quiet amplifiers.
So very low efficient headphones are probably best used with a VERY HIGH quality speaker amplifiers.
Meanwhile superefficient IEM's Idealy need a special amp that has very low noise and gain below unity (negative gain).
A normal DAC has 2V full signal levels, if our actual IEM needs only 0.1V to cross the pain threshold and risk permanent hearing damage, the Amplifier needs to cut the signal by 20 times (26dB) to produce 120dB.
So the amplifier for IEM's should have a gain of 1/20 (or -26dB) and noise optimised for best SNR at 0.1V as well as producing 0.1V @ << 16 Ohm load in Class A and not 10V into 600 Ohm.
If we allow a maximum output of 1V most IEM's should go loud enough.
Of course such a design needs to be radically different from one that aims to provide 4-5W into 16 Ohm.
I swear one day I'm going to a CanJam with a great big slab of aluminium box with gorgeous machined volume dial, and inside will be a little dongle hooked up to the front panel, a few weights inside to give it some extra heft, and then sit back and enjoy the feedback.
Add in a heating Element so waves of heat emanate and emblazon "Class A" on the front if you do this.
Mind you, when I walk in with K-240Monitor or HE-6 and plug 'em in, the Jig is up (weak sound, cannot play loud), same likely for my Andro's (too much noise).
Thor
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Here is the answer I received regarding this topic,The description is misleading indeed. It always runs on battery even when the charging cable is connected.
"After connecting to the external power supply, it automatically switches to the external power supply and charges the battery until it is fully charged. When there is no external power supply, the internal battery is powered."
Hope this helps!
Cheers!!
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I have not gotten an answer yet, but (no excuses) I was off and have asked again for you.Is there any news on this? It'd really be good to know whether this power spec is comparable with other amps or not
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It is a USB C to USB A adapter.What does that usb-A dongle thing do? Bluetooth transmitter?
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