Can someone help me out with my casework?
Jul 27, 2007 at 7:39 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 25
gates_2

gates_2

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Hey guys,

So, I've got 2 projects cooking right now(first watt f2 and B22) Both of em are up and running, but I've got an issue with casing them. For example, I have 3/8" thick aluminum plate for the front of my first watt, and I'm afraid drilling holes with my hand drill is a good way to ruin a $30 piece of metal. I was wondering if there is someone in the NC area who could lend me use to their drill press / shop, so I could do these right. I've explored trying to get into a lab here at my Uni, but so far have not been successful(i'm not an engineer).

Let me know what ya'll think

-Thanks
 
Jul 27, 2007 at 10:07 PM Post #2 of 25
3/8" aluminum.. Wow, that's going to be one heavy duty case.
biggrin.gif


Centerpunch your holes thoroughly and then use something like this:

http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/200307296.htm

They drill much better than a regular drill bit and don't walk around nearly as much. To get the size you want, just drill the hole a couple of sizes less than your finished hole in the front and then come in from the back side to finish. Swap back and forth from side to side until the hole in the front is the size you want.

Go slowly and carefully and you shouldn't have much of a problem.

If you can, practice on some scraps first.

962154_lg.gif
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 12:41 AM Post #3 of 25
A stepped bit on material that thick is pretty much worthless unless you happen to want to drill a hole the maximum size of the bit. I'd probably call a machine shop and see how much it'd be to have them drill it for you.
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 1:01 AM Post #4 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
A stepped bit on material that thick is pretty much worthless unless you happen to want to drill a hole the maximum size of the bit. I'd probably call a machine shop and see how much it'd be to have them drill it for you.


seconded
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 2:14 AM Post #5 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by MASantos /img/forum/go_quote.gif
seconded


gah.... i suppose i'll have to do that, although I'm afraid it is going to be pretty expensive... Can't hurt to get a quote though...
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 11:47 AM Post #6 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
A stepped bit on material that thick is pretty much worthless unless you happen to want to drill a hole the maximum size of the bit. I'd probably call a machine shop and see how much it'd be to have them drill it for you.


I've only done it a few hundred times..

So what would I know?
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 1:39 PM Post #8 of 25
Just to show you I'm not wafting universal obscurant out of my nether orifice here is a pic of an armature I made for a microflight brushless motor.

The little silver pieces are neodymium magnets.

I made it on the CNC mill I have in the basement.

4u0dusx.jpg
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 3:32 PM Post #9 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheVinylRipper /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've only done it a few hundred times..

So what would I know?


Please explain to me how one uses a bit with an 1/8" cutting surface directly followed by a larger cutting step to cut through 3/8" of material. Even going from both sides you're going to end up with 1/8" left over in the middle. Now granted if you could live with a larger hole on the inside of the case you could use the bit and stop short of drilling through the front surface with the next larger step but if you have components that like to mount to a flush surface this can cause problems. This generally happens with things like headphone jacks, volume pots, and some RCA's.

Remember, we're trying to help someone who clearly isn't all that experienced with casework avoid toasting a front panel. Or were you too busy showing off your expertise to remember that the user in question doesn't have a CNC machine, drill press or much in the way of tools?
rolleyes.gif
So I stand by my statement, for this user, in this case your recommendation of a stepped bit is inappropriate.
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 3:34 PM Post #10 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Remember, we're trying to help someone who clearly isn't all that experienced with casework avoid toasting a front panel.


x2

I'm a student and cannot afford(money or space) big equipment to do some casework. Even with a stepped drill bit(I own one), I am worried about the precision of using a hand drill, especially through such thick aluminum...
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 4:05 PM Post #11 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Please explain to me how one uses a bit with an 1/8" cutting surface directly followed by a larger cutting step to cut through 3/8" of material. Even going from both sides you're going to end up with 1/8" left over in the middle. Now granted if you could live with a larger hole on the inside of the case you could use the bit and stop short of drilling through the front surface with the next larger step but if you have components that like to mount to a flush surface this can cause problems. This generally happens with things like headphone jacks, volume pots, and some RCA's.

Remember, we're trying to help someone who clearly isn't all that experienced with casework avoid toasting a front panel. Or were you too busy showing off your expertise to remember that the user in question doesn't have a CNC machine, drill press or much in the way of tools?
rolleyes.gif
So I stand by my statement, for this user, in this case your recommendation of a stepped bit is inappropriate.


There are these things called "washers".

You put them on the inside to make sure that the hole on the inside is the right size..

And I've done it with a hand drill on site many times..

As for inexperience, note that I told him to practice on scrap if at all possible.

Cheers,

Jon
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 4:10 PM Post #12 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by gates_2 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
x2

I'm a student and cannot afford(money or space) big equipment to do some casework. Even with a stepped drill bit(I own one), I am worried about the precision of using a hand drill, especially through such thick aluminum...


Do what you feel you need to.

I've had machine shops ruin my material before, that's basically why I started doing things myself. One thing led to another and I ended up with a CNC mill in the basement that I built myself from a machine that was made in October of 1941.

I'd rather screw it up myself than have someone else do it for me.

I did tell you to practice on scrap.

If you have a problem on a piece of scrap, then by all means, have it done.

I hope it works out for you and when you get done post some pics, I would like to see them.

Cheers,

Jon
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 4:42 PM Post #13 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by TheVinylRipper /img/forum/go_quote.gif
There are these things called "washers".


At 3/8" thick he's already going to be running into issues with panel thickness as it relates to the allowable mounting depth of most components. Adding a washer exacerbates this problem.

Quote:

You put them on the inside to make sure that the hole on the inside is the right size..


Thanks, I know how to use a washer, your condescending attitude is clearly something you're well practiced at as well.
 
Jul 28, 2007 at 4:56 PM Post #14 of 25
Jul 28, 2007 at 7:16 PM Post #15 of 25
Quote:

Originally Posted by n_maher /img/forum/go_quote.gif
At 3/8" thick he's already going to be running into issues with panel thickness as it relates to the allowable mounting depth of most components. Adding a washer exacerbates this problem.

Thanks, I know how to use a washer, your condescending attitude is clearly something you're well practiced at as well.


I was simply matching your own attitude..

I'm very friendly when treated in a friendly manner.

Your manner was not friendly so mine was not either.
 
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