[Skylab]

Well, there again, there is bi-amping using a speaker that is designed for that, in which case no external crossover is needed, and then there is bi amping a speaker that isn't.  My B&W N800 and N805, and many other modern speakers, have a high input and a low input for either biwiring or biamping.  In that case, you are accessing the crossover at the right point, not bypassing it.  I bi amp my N800's straight from the amps, and that is how they are designed.  No external crossover needed, and in fact it would be a problem to use one.
 
My vintage speakers, though, all have only one set of inputs, and cannot be biwired or biamped. 

 

[Rawrbington]

Quote:

You are wired up just fine.  The benefits of bi-wiring are suspect.  Are the two sets of posts on the speaker still tied together with a metal strap or connected via short interconnects?  If you had specified the model of your Mission speakers, I'd have looked this up.

yeah i can see how they would be suspect.  I **think** i **might** have noticed a little better bass presence or response.  perhaps a tiny bit more separation.  but that could very well be all in my head!
 
i took out the jumper between the posts on the speaker.
the manual for the missions explained well enough how to wire them at the speaker.  but then didn't say much of anything about what to do with the wires at the amp.  so i kinda read and then just guessed.
 
they's just some lowly mission MX1's

 

[BmWr75]

You are good to go.  These speakers are biwirable.
 
http://www.missionspeakersusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Mission_mx1
 
This is a vintage amp/receiver thread, so that is why I was concerned about how you had wired up the system.  

 

[Rawrbington]

my question is how does that not bridge down the amp?
 
my experience comes from car audio and i guess it could be different but, if i were to take 2 4 ohm subs or 1 dual 8 ohm voice coil sub and run them both out of the same channel it would drop the impedance.  why does that not happen with bi wiring?

 

[BmWr75]

Quote:

my question is how does that not bridge down the amp?
 
my experience comes from car audio and i guess it could be different but, if i were to take 2 4 ohm subs or 1 dual 8 ohm voice coil sub and run them both out of the same channel it would drop the impedance.  why does that not happen with bi wiring?

It is all dependent on how the speaker is wired inside.  Bottom-line is does it sound better to you bi-wired?  If yes, that is all that matters.
 

 

[sluker]

Skylab,
I have a set of B&W CM1's which have the posts for bi-wiring/amping but I am not sure if they are Hi/Low input. How does one tell? Could I run my Sansui and Pioneer into the speakers and bi amp them (both are fed from the same DAC through an audio switch)? Does it matter which amp is connected to the top vs. bottom jacks?
Quote:

Well, there again, there is bi-amping using a speaker that is designed for that, in which case no external crossover is needed, and then there is bi amping a speaker that isn't.  My B&W N800 and N805, and many other modern speakers, have a high input and a low input for either biwiring or biamping.  In that case, you are accessing the crossover at the right point, not bypassing it.  I bi amp my N800's straight from the amps, and that is how they are designed.  No external crossover needed, and in fact it would be a problem to use one.
 
My vintage speakers, though, all have only one set of inputs, and cannot be biwired or biamped. 

 

 

[Skylab]

I am virtually certain that you could bi amp the CM1's.  Note that if you did, you MUST remove the gold strap that connects the two sets of outputs first.
 
However, the way You suggested to do it would be very wonky.  You would have the volume on one amp controlling the treble and one controlling the bass! That isn't really workable IMO.  And frankly I don't see the benefit.

 

[Rawrbington]

found a Pioneer Pl 55X on craigslist locally.
guy wants 50$ for it,
claims its in perfect condition and the pictures from what i can tell its at least in decent condition.
 
gonna try to swoop it up before anyone else here finds it.  cause i think thats a really nice price if it is in nice shape.
 
im hoping it will mate nicely with my 950

 

[BmWr75]

Quote:

I am virtually certain that you could bi amp the CM1's.  Note that if you did, you MUST remove the gold strap that connects the two sets of outputs first.
 
However, the way You suggested to do it would be very wonky.  You would have the volume on one amp controlling the treble and one controlling the bass! That isn't really workable IMO.  And frankly I don't see the benefit.

I concur with Skylab on this topic.  Stick with one vintage receiver per pair of speakers!!

 

[wotts]

I feel "enabled" to get more speakers and receivers now. Might go after the Sansui G8000 that the guy I bought my HPM-100s from has.

 
Quote:

I concur with Skylab on this topic.  Stick with one vintage receiver per pair of speakers!!

 

 

[Skylab]

The G-8000 sure looks killer! Never heard one though.

 

[Meewoo]

Quote:

I feel "enabled" to get more speakers and receivers now. Might go after the Sansui G8000 that the guy I bought my HPM-100s from has.
 

 

I would say G-8000 is a very good 120wpc receiver. I have one, but has little time to dig it. In 100-120wpc receiver category, I have G-8000, Sanyo JCX-9000, Setton RS-660, Pioneer SX-1010, Kenwood KR-9400 and KR-8050, JVC Jr-s501, and Rotel rx1203, I had SX-1050 too. They are all stocked one, and I think they are all very solid receivers with Sanyo's at a lower league. G-8000 sounds like Sansui Au-517 with a little neutral sound than early Sansui models but warmer than later Sansui models. I had a chance to pick one from G-8000, G-9700 and SX-1010 at seller's house, and I picked G-8000 with my AKG q-701 headphones after auditing all three there. I bought my SX-1010 later. G-x700 has very fancy looks, but I like G-8000 with my Q-701 more. I would say G-8000 is very solid build and can be a center piece for serious stereo setup.

 

[sluker]

Whats the going rate for a refurbished G-8000? My repair guy has one for $745.
Quote:

I would say G-8000 is a very good 120wpc receiver. I have one, but has little time to dig it. In 100-120wpc receiver category, I have G-8000, Sanyo JCX-9000, Setton RS-660, Pioneer SX-1010, Kenwood KR-9400 and KR-8050, and Rotel rx1203, I had SX-1050 too. They are all stocked one, and I think they are all very solid receivers with Sanyo's at a lower league. G-8000 sounds like Sansui Au-517 with a little neutral sound than early Sansui models but warmer than later Sansui models. I had a chance to pick one from G-8000, G-9700 and SX-1010 at seller's house, and I picked G-8000 with my AKG q-701 headphones after auditing all three there. I bought my SX-1010 later. G-x700 has very fancy looks, but I like G-8000 with my Q-701 more. I would say G-8000 is very solid build and can be a center piece for serious stereo setup.

 

 

[sluker]

Thanks,
I did not think about the volume matching issue. 
Quote:

I am virtually certain that you could bi amp the CM1's.  Note that if you did, you MUST remove the gold strap that connects the two sets of outputs first.
 
However, the way You suggested to do it would be very wonky.  You would have the volume on one amp controlling the treble and one controlling the bass! That isn't really workable IMO.  And frankly I don't see the benefit.

 

 

[Meewoo]

Quote:

Whats the going rate for a refurbished G-8000? My repair guy has one for $745.


 

I think you can refer the price of Pionner SX-1050, I don't follow the prices for receivers for a long time. But according to AKers, 2010 is year for Sansui 9090, and 2011 is for Sansui G-9000 and G-8000. Clearly, not many G-xx000s have been on ePay. In my experience, G-8000 or G-9000 are more rare than SX-1050 or SX-1250.