Burson V6 Vivid and V6 Classic Discrete Audio Opamps Discussion and Reviews
Feb 10, 2018 at 7:51 AM Post #166 of 533
Final Review V6 Vivid

My Dream Came True!! Thank You again Mr Charles from SS Audio for sending me the Vivid Duals.


After having the Complete Set of Vivid V6 I decided to install them on my SB ZXR!
....

Just be careful about the heat for the V6 when using a cap between pin 4 an pin 8, as Burson did not recommended to use such modding due to potential overheating.

With my earlier mod. projects using THS4032, I implemented it with a 0,1uF cap to minimize the risk for oscillation, but Burson tell me the pros. for V6 should be very small.

What was your impreesion for this cap mod - did you experienced just a tiny bit better sound or was it a whole new perspective for the V6?
 
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Feb 10, 2018 at 9:02 AM Post #167 of 533
Nice write up. I was fortunate enough to observe the same thing 8 years ago. That's what really kicked off my audio addiction. Needless to say, I went from spending $2-500 per component to 500-2000 per component now...

Dangerous passion this is.
 
Feb 10, 2018 at 3:34 PM Post #168 of 533
The purpose of the MKP bypass caps was to reduce the high frequency noise or feedback, so the V6 performs smoothly on ZXR.
Yes it does have have some positive effects, now I no longer have the harsh feeling to the sound listening to e.g heavy metal type music.
 
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Feb 10, 2018 at 6:32 PM Post #169 of 533
Nice write up. I was fortunate enough to observe the same thing 8 years ago. That's what really kicked off my audio addiction. Needless to say, I went from spending $2-500 per component to 500-2000 per component now...

Dangerous passion this is.

You are not the only one there are still many Audiophiles who are not into DIY stuff like me, and would like to spend more than their monthly income :moneybag::money_with_wings:
 
Feb 10, 2018 at 6:43 PM Post #170 of 533
I played with DIY with Bravo Audio Ocean, upgraded the tube, caps, and mosfet. Issue came when I tried the last mod of soldering the mosfets. The brass ring inside the circuit board came out, and I basically lost $150ish worth of investment. Good learning experience...

Now I get professionals to do the delicate stuff. This way, I won't be out several hundreds of dollars because of my mistake. Lots of audio devices uses IC opamps, but they are soldered on, so I get Partsconnexion to remove the opamps and add in dips so I can put Burson discrete opamps in.

You can usually find people modding, and it's a great way knowing your sound is unique and much better than stock.
 
Feb 11, 2018 at 8:42 AM Post #171 of 533
Telling the following from my own knowledge and experience, as I since 10 year have soldering certificate for industrial/military use: First, if you´re meticulous, you should be aware if the original pcb are soldered with RoHS -solder (Restriction of Hazardous Substances - in shortly; unleaded solder). Most consumer equipment made after 2010 - 2012 are RoHS certified, and this a bit more tricky to solder - especially to unsolder. You should not mix RoHS solder with leaded solder, even that nothing serious bad thing will happens. Just have in mind RoHS solder will need more and longer heat from the solder iron.

When you want to unsolder a component for replacement, you should have a good solder iron (if you do not own an unsolder blower - but not many people do), a big unsolder vacuum pump, unsolder wick and a tweezer. Those tools are not very expensive, and well worth the investments if you´re a serious modder!
When you then want to solder, just hold the solder iron to both the component pin and the metall ring surrounding the VIA-hole around the pin - then apply the solder to the metal ring and the component pin and never only to the soldering iron, as that will generate a cold soldering and will more than likely loose it´s connection after a few year. You should apply just so much solder so the ring will be filled with solder - if you use too much so you will not see the component pin, you can remove it with the vacuum pump or wolder wick and then start over with that soldering. Just hold the solder iron enough time to letting the solder melting and it will fload out nice. If holder solder iron too long, the solder will start to bubble and that´s not good as oxygen will get inside the solder and icreasing the risk for future corrosion/oxidation inside the solder. Also remember to not pushing the solder iron with too much force and not rub it against the metal ring (this is also true when using unsolder wick) - all those three things will also increase the risk for pcb damage.

If you however had minchance/bad luck, so the metal ring inside the pcb will release but still hanging in the conductor, you may still gonna put it down gently in it´s place and resolder the component to it - if you´re meticulous, you can then paint it with some pcb paint, so no air (oxygen) will reach the bare metal. If your really unlucky, so the pcb conductor will release from the metal ring around teh VIA-hole, but you may not have to give up yet - there´s still a change you can save it by solder some thin copper wire either to the conductor by rubbing of the paint where it´s undamaged, or you can solder the wire directly to another solder joint (you can use a DVM, Digital Volt Meter set to Ohm to measure resistance to be sure to choose a correct solder joint).

If you´re not so experienced, you can apply some flux, both to unsolder and solder - as this will make the solder flow easier and fill the surface. As I told earlier in this post, you should not apply the solder directly to the solder iron - this will vaporize the flux inside the solder (exemption is just a small amount firstly, so you will get more heat connection).

Also remember; Many unexperienced people think more solder to the solder joing will be better, but this is not true - a good solder joint should be concave when looking from the side, not as a round ball. There´s also three classification degrees for solder, where the highest requirement is for military and medical use, and the lowest requirement is for consumer equipment.

533192d1261511561-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson-solder.jpg


Here´s a link with more information:

https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html
 
Feb 11, 2018 at 9:42 AM Post #172 of 533
Telling the following from my own knowledge and experience, as I since 10 year have soldering certificate for industrial/military use: First, if you´re meticulous, you should be aware if the original pcb are soldered with RoHS -solder (Restriction of Hazardous Substances - in shortly; unleaded solder). Most consumer equipment made after 2010 - 2012 are RoHS certified, and this a bit more tricky to solder - especially to unsolder. You should not mix RoHS solder with leaded solder, even that nothing serious bad thing will happens. Just have in mind RoHS solder will need more and longer heat from the solder iron.

When you want to unsolder a component for replacement, you should have a good solder iron (if you do not own an unsolder blower - but not many people do), a big unsolder vacuum pump, unsolder wick and a tweezer. Those tools are not very expensive, and well worth the investments if you´re a serious modder!
When you then want to solder, just hold the solder iron to both the component pin and the metall ring surrounding the VIA-hole around the pin - then apply the solder to the metal ring and the component pin and never only to the soldering iron, as that will generate a cold soldering and will more than likely loose it´s connection after a few year. You should apply just so much solder so the ring will be filled with solder - if you use too much so you will not see the component pin, you can remove it with the vacuum pump or wolder wick and then start over with that soldering. Just hold the solder iron enough time to letting the solder melting and it will fload out nice. If holder solder iron too long, the solder will start to bubble and that´s not good as oxygen will get inside the solder and icreasing the risk for future corrosion/oxidation inside the solder. Also remember to not pushing the solder iron with too much force and not rub it against the metal ring (this is also true when using unsolder wick) - all those three things will also increase the risk for pcb damage.

If you however had minchance/bad luck, so the metal ring inside the pcb will release but still hanging in the conductor, you may still gonna put it down gently in it´s place and resolder the component to it - if you´re meticulous, you can then paint it with some pcb paint, so no air (oxygen) will reach the bare metal. If your really unlucky, so the pcb conductor will release from the metal ring around teh VIA-hole, but you may not have to give up yet - there´s still a change you can save it by solder some thin copper wire either to the conductor by rubbing of the paint where it´s undamaged, or you can solder the wire directly to another solder joint (you can use a DVM, Digital Volt Meter set to Ohm to measure resistance to be sure to choose a correct solder joint).

If you´re not so experienced, you can apply some flux, both to unsolder and solder - as this will make the solder flow easier and fill the surface. As I told earlier in this post, you should not apply the solder directly to the solder iron - this will vaporize the flux inside the solder (exemption is just a small amount firstly, so you will get more heat connection).

Also remember; Many unexperienced people think more solder to the solder joing will be better, but this is not true - a good solder joint should be concave when looking from the side, not as a round ball. There´s also three classification degrees for solder, where the highest requirement is for military and medical use, and the lowest requirement is for consumer equipment.

533192d1261511561-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson-solder.jpg


Here´s a link with more information:

https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/336870-how-solder-correctly-not-so-brief-lesson.html

Many Thanks for your Advice, I am not an Electrician but I do soldering only if its necessary, to tell you the truth I am not good at soldering and I don't enjoy it either but unfortunately for Electronics DIY stuff I had to have some soldering skills. atm I have this Soldering station: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-...388477&hash=item1c8717e5d0:g:NwQAAOSww-BaauyZ its not the best but do the job quickly. I decided to practice and learn more about soldering, then I will desolder all the stock Caps on my ZXR and replace them with some high quality caps like this guy did: https://www.bursonaudio.com/sound-blaster-zxr/
 
Feb 11, 2018 at 10:22 AM Post #173 of 533
That is extremely useful information for any DIYer. I learned the basics when working in a production environment soldering power chords to brand new water pumps. Soldering pcbs are a much harder affair. You need the right tip. The right tools as you've described which I did not have at the time. And of course the skilled. Most people don't practice What you have described. They practice on actual components they're working on.
 
Feb 14, 2018 at 8:33 PM Post #175 of 533
Not only on my Soundcard ZXR , V6 Vivids also shines on my SB X7. Maybe I am the first guy ever who tried this op amps on this DAC.
20180215_003922.jpg
20180215_010535.jpg
compare to my ZXR( with Cap mod) SB X7 with V6 Vivids sounds now Natural, and Organic, and also have the Richness to the sound and the Lively feelings while listening to certain songs but SB X7 still don't have the exact same level of sound that my ZXR(with cap mod) offer.

But the airy vibe is still there.

Imo V6 Vivids are some unique op amps, because it doesn't really surprise at the beginning but after a while it really turn into a device that produces sweet and enjoyable sound.

I really wish V6 Vivids weren't so big, then I could easily fit them in my SB X7 but in life wishes don't always come true ; (

Yes Bursons op amps are really something new to me and I must say that all Audiophiles should try them.
 

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Feb 19, 2018 at 7:52 AM Post #176 of 533
Not only on my Soundcard ZXR , V6 Vivids also shines on my SB X7. .....

I really wish V6 Vivids weren't so big, then I could easily fit them in my SB X7 but in life wishes don't always come true ; (

Yes Bursons op amps are really something new to me and I must say that all Audiophiles should try them.

Hi dear Onik,
I bought the opamps V6 Vivid for my creative x7 limited edition just yesterday and they will be delivered to me within the week.
What changes did you have to make to mount them? I was hoping to be able to fit them without problems ... :scream:
 
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Feb 19, 2018 at 8:45 AM Post #177 of 533
Hi dear Onik,
I bought the opamps V6 Vivid for my creative x7 limited edition just yesterday and they will be delivered to me within the week.
What changes did you have to make to mount them? I was hoping to be able to fit them without problems ... :scream:


I did not make any changes I just removed them from my ZXR and Plugged them in SB X7, you can ignore the MKP CAPS you don't really need them for SB X7.

The big problem with Vivids are they are way too big to fit inside, if you really want to use them forever with X7 then I suggest you to buy/make some OP AMPS adapter extenders like this:Screenshot_2018-02-16-18-23-50-1.png

Then you might need to store the Vivids to a box and then put the SB X7 on top, I'm now planning to do this.
 
Feb 19, 2018 at 10:01 PM Post #178 of 533
I did not make any changes I just removed them from my ZXR and Plugged them in SB X7, you can ignore the MKP CAPS you don't really need them for SB X7.

The big problem with Vivids are they are way too big to fit inside, if you really want to use them forever with X7 then I suggest you to buy/make some OP AMPS adapter extenders like this:

Then you might need to store the Vivids to a box and then put the SB X7 on top, I'm now planning to do this.
I knew about the overvolume. Thus my contingency plan for dual V5i's, which are based on a custom monolithic transistor array. If Burson can top itself with a V6i, so much the better, but the V5i's the best existing I-V op amp (as of February 2018) that I can shoehorn under the RFI shield on my ASUS® XONAR® STX™. The V6's will shine on discrete stereo components, which have plenty of air above the main circuit boards - not so easy to fit into a desktop computer with all those other option cards.
 

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