Beyer DT 770 Pro Removable cable mod, weird wires? Please help.

[Bubblejuice]

So my brother asked me to mod his Beyers because he wanted the cable to be removable, as the stock cable is way too long.

I decided to go the safe route and cut the cable about 6" below the headphone and add a female connector to that. That way he could connect any 3.5mm and everything's good without having to open the headphones.

However, after I cut the cable, I found the inside is just three tiny colored wires that don't seem like they are insulated at all!

There's a blue, red, and yellowish-copper one. But when I touch it with my multimeter, and touch any of the 3.5mm stereo jack parts, I get nothing. After tinkering with it for a while I eventually get a very short spike and then nothing again.

Is this a special coating for the wires so they don't cross? Is there any way to remove it? If I just soldered it to a neutrik jack, would it suddenly work?

Or is there no way to do this and I just have to go the full in headphones removable cable mod route? If so, would this be the jack I need: https://www.markertek.com/product/ac116/stereo-mini-jack-chassis-mt-solder

All the cable mods for this I've read mention nothing about coated cables. They don't mention any issues either but I don't know why I couldn't get any continuity (I know very little about electronics, so this is as far as my expertise goes), they were working fine before.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Here is a picture of the wires: http://imgur.com/a/WNgHa

 

[FallenAngel]

The cables are enamel coated and you can burn that off with a hot soldering iron.
You can use an inline mini jack or install a jack inside the headphone. I recommend the latter and the one you linked would work perfectly fine, just check the size.

 

[HiGHFLYiN9]

FallenAngel is correct, it's enamel. The wire is thin, so too hot of a temperature will burn everything away. Personally I just like to replace the wire. At the minimum, some Canare starquad 4x24 is like 40 cents a foot, treat your bro to some decent wire.

For the connectors, I like to open the cups and drill some larger holes, then mount mini XLRs. The holes need to be drilled closer to the grills so there is no clearance issue with the plastic driver surround. These work well: http://www.zackelectronics.com/chas...gzX75hcMhRlRmmaVqYN_dVWnIw4QNqkY9TxoCg1vw_wcB

Then use these to plug in http://www.zackelectronics.com/inline-male-3-pin-mini-xlr.html

Much better than 3.5mm. But if you want to go the quick and easy way, carefully burn away the enamel with an iron and solder (or a solder pot) and then connect the plug/jack.

 

[Bubblejuice]

The cables are enamel coated and you can burn that off with a hot soldering iron.
You can use an inline mini jack or install a jack inside the headphone. I recommend the latter and the one you linked would work perfectly fine, just check the size.

Oh ok, thank you very much! I went ahead and ordered one friday. It was only $1 anyways. I think it'll work just fine If I'm not able to fix the cable.

FallenAngel is correct, it's enamel. The wire is thin, so too hot of a temperature will burn everything away. Personally I just like to replace the wire. At the minimum, some Canare starquad 4x24 is like 40 cents a foot, treat your bro to some decent wire.

For the connectors, I like to open the cups and drill some larger holes, then mount mini XLRs. The holes need to be drilled closer to the grills so there is no clearance issue with the plastic driver surround. These work well: http://www.zackelectronics.com/chas...gzX75hcMhRlRmmaVqYN_dVWnIw4QNqkY9TxoCg1vw_wcB

Then use these to plug in http://www.zackelectronics.com/inline-male-3-pin-mini-xlr.html

Much better than 3.5mm. But if you want to go the quick and easy way, carefully burn away the enamel with an iron and solder (or a solder pot) and then connect the plug/jack.

Do you know what temperature would be ideal for this? My soldering iron allows for temperature control.

Yeah, I could definitely do that, I have some nice mogami wire, but it's somewhere around 20 awg, maybe too thick.

He actually prefers the 3.5mm jack, but I'll definitely keep the mini xlr in mind! Thank you for the links

 

[FallenAngel]

I use 750F for everything
20awg is pretty huge

 

[Bubblejuice]

I use 750F for everything
20awg is pretty huge

Oh no, I'm talking about a recommended heat for the tiny wires in the beyer. To remove the enamel.

 

[Titanblitz]

So my brother asked me to mod his Beyers because he wanted the cable to be removable, as the stock cable is way too long.

I decided to go the safe route and cut the cable about 6" below the headphone and add a female connector to that. That way he could connect any 3.5mm and everything's good without having to open the headphones.

However, after I cut the cable, I found the inside is just three tiny colored wires that don't seem like they are insulated at all!

There's a blue, red, and yellowish-copper one. But when I touch it with my multimeter, and touch any of the 3.5mm stereo jack parts, I get nothing. After tinkering with it for a while I eventually get a very short spike and then nothing again.

Is this a special coating for the wires so they don't cross? Is there any way to remove it? If I just soldered it to a neutrik jack, would it suddenly work?

Or is there no way to do this and I just have to go the full in headphones removable cable mod route? If so, would this be the jack I need: https://www.markertek.com/product/ac116/stereo-mini-jack-chassis-mt-solder

All the cable mods for this I've read mention nothing about coated cables. They don't mention any issues either but I don't know why I couldn't get any continuity (I know very little about electronics, so this is as far as my expertise goes), they were working fine before.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Here is a picture of the wires: http://imgur.com/a/WNgHa

I need help with my Beyers. The right speaker began to distort the bass frequencies so I opened it up.
https://imgur.com/a/SyHLB1S - right speaker
Also left speaker https://imgur.com/a/BXFsUmd
Can anyone tell me if the wiring/soldering is correct ? In particular the left-most pad which has no solder on it. These headphones were bought from a retailer , not home made by me.
Thank you.

 

[RestlessZombi]

I believe that there are multiple versions of the Headphones available, at least in terms of the wiring in each cup, but yours does look different to the saved link i have for doing a cable swap mod.
https://imgur.com/gallery/7RQttxS