Avantone : Pro Planar
Dec 9, 2020 at 11:45 AM Post #526 of 1,500
The goal of any given blu tack mod is to improve the sealing of the front volume which, is the volume of air between the diaphragm and your ear. This particular mod is sealing air gaps in the back volume so any changes that occur are going to be negligible from the perspective of the front volume. Which, is the side we listen to. So, for this particular mod, the blu tack is creating even mechanical pressure NOT acoustic pressure, i.e. "even pressure when you screw it shut".

Now, this brings me to my current project and that is modeling a new baffle that is resistant to warping. This will ensure that the diaphragm is being unaltered by any form of mechanical pressure applied from the screws or putty, etc.
This new baffle is super interesting. Please share the model when its done, would love to get one myself if it turns out as we hope :)
 
Dec 9, 2020 at 1:10 PM Post #527 of 1,500
This new baffle is super interesting. Please share the model when its done, would love to get one myself if it turns out as we hope :)
I just took apart the driver and put it back together. Lord have mercy that was nerve-racking. To be honest, after inspecting the baffles and magnets, I'm not sure if there is much value in redesigning the baffle anymore. There could be but, the hassle of completely breaking down the magnet array isn't something I'm particularly interested in unless I have another brand new pair of the Planars as a backup (I'm considering this actually, I just don't believe the Planar is an $800 headphone though).

I will say that tightening the 4 screws and nuts in each corner of the driver is probably a more worthwhile mod and is lower risk. I wish I had not told you guys to tighten the other 8 screws because the plastic holes that they screw into wear away stupidly fast and they don't seem to consistently improve the sound.
 
Dec 9, 2020 at 8:04 PM Post #528 of 1,500
I just took apart the driver and put it back together. Lord have mercy that was nerve-racking. To be honest, after inspecting the baffles and magnets, I'm not sure if there is much value in redesigning the baffle anymore. There could be but, the hassle of completely breaking down the magnet array isn't something I'm particularly interested in unless I have another brand new pair of the Planars as a backup (I'm considering this actually, I just don't believe the Planar is an $800 headphone though).

I will say that tightening the 4 screws and nuts in each corner of the driver is probably a more worthwhile mod and is lower risk. I wish I had not told you guys to tighten the other 8 screws because the plastic holes that they screw into wear away stupidly fast and they don't seem to consistently improve the sound.
I just checked my baffle and screws. They all seem to have some sort of locktight holding things inplace
 
Dec 9, 2020 at 8:09 PM Post #529 of 1,500
Do it! Do it!

I'm curious to see how they differ. Sundara will be my next planar purchase for sure.

I finally got my Sundaras. I can't compare to the Aventone but I'm really enjoying the Sundara. Lots of reviews mentioned breaking them in. That is sooo true. They stunk out of the box. Almost zero bass and very soft sounding. Now they are broken in they sound spectacular.
 
Dec 10, 2020 at 12:26 AM Post #531 of 1,500
Here is a useful technique for ensuring a tight seal between the baffle and pads. Once the pads have been aligned perfectly on the front baffle, hold the top sides of the pad you're working with while applying downward pressure on the baffle. Next, hold the cup in a similar manner to how you're holding the pad, and then try to move the pad side to side/ up and down whilst applying downward pressure. This will force all the loop fibers on the pads to grasp the hook fibers on the baffle. Repeat this process for middle, bottom, and vertically. If done correctly the pad should appear flush and will be solidly attached to the cup.

The sonic benefits are improved lower mids and perhaps slightly better detail retrieval. Also, the timbre also might have slightly changed, I'm still listening. I think there's going to be a very interesting change in the sound once I do a better pad seal mod.

I also removed the L & R dust covers from the pads.

EDIT: In listening to some more music I can confirm that I can hear more details and the vocals in "To Be Human" by Marina are a tad bit smoother. Also, a lot of songs are sounding more dynamic but It's getting late where I'm from and I could just be imagining things.
 
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Dec 10, 2020 at 6:55 PM Post #532 of 1,500
What do you mean? Pics?
I only took out two screws completely. But they were very tighy to take out so I went slowly. But here is a picture of what I mean. There is this blue locktight glue in the screw holes. It's a very thick glue, not liquidy. But its holding the screws in place extremely securely. So im not sure if I should take them all out or not. But I've been listening more to my Planars. And im not sure if brain burn in or its just me. But been listening with no EQ and they are sounding much better. The 1.3k peak is actually sounding less now and treble seems to be better. I made sure all screws were tighten equally and tightly for my unit. I tried listening with one screw just a bit loose and felt that 1.3k peak again and treble sounding just a bit peaky. But once I tightened it again, its sounding great. Did your Planar have this type of glue stuff?
20201211_104325.jpg
 
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Dec 10, 2020 at 7:34 PM Post #533 of 1,500
I only took out two screws completely. But they were very tighy to take out so I went slowly. But here is a picture of what I mean. There is this blue locktight glue in the screw holes. It's a very thick glue, not liquidy. But its holding the screws in place extremely securely. So im not sure if I should take them all out or not. But I've been listening more to my Planars. And im not sure if brain burn in or its just me. But been listening with no EQ and they are sounding much better. The 1.3k peak is actually sounding less now and treble seems to be better. I made sure all screws were tighten equally and tightly for my unit. I tried listening with one screw just a bit loose and felt that 1.3k peak again and treble sounding just a bit peaky. But once I tightened it again, its sounding great. Did your Planar have this type of glue stuff?
No. Is it on all of the screws?? That’s interesting.

@SethMB can you give us some insight?
 
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Dec 11, 2020 at 12:14 AM Post #537 of 1,500
I didn't check if I could remove the driver but im sure it should be easy to remove. It's not extremely hard to remove the screws but the screws have a bit more grip.
Well that’s good. Give removing the driver a try if you’re brave enough (it’s not that scary) and tighten those corner screws.
 
Dec 11, 2020 at 4:01 AM Post #538 of 1,500
Gotta say I feel like I dodged a bullet here. It may sound wonderful but the build quality is extremely questionable imo...I mean how many cans have you had before, where you needed to tighten up their screws inside the first week of actually owning them?
Headphone makers should test their headphone BEFORE it reaches the consumer methinks.
 
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Dec 11, 2020 at 5:19 AM Post #539 of 1,500
Gotta say I feel like I dodged a bullet here. It may sound wonderful but the build quality is extremely questionable imo...I mean how many cans have you had before, where you needed to tighten up their screws inside the first week of actually owning them?
Headphone makers should test their headphone BEFORE it reaches the consumer methinks.
Absolutely agree. I'll be leaving my headphone as it is. I havent had any issues so far but don't want to risk myself ruining a good set.
 
Dec 11, 2020 at 5:21 AM Post #540 of 1,500
Well that’s good. Give removing the driver a try if you’re brave enough (it’s not that scary) and tighten those corner screws.
I would but I feel everything on my set is good. I don't want to risk doing something then I end up stuffing up the seal. I feel its very easy to go wrong with the Planar. I have been babying them since day one. I think checking the screws is as far as I'll go.
 

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