[hdtv00]

It may not be pointless but the minute you start using it right with a nice tube you'll be wondering What you were thinking this whole time. Don't matter to me how you use it. I'm just saying you're missing out big time.
 
Why does it still light up the tube when not using it right. Um well duh because they're to cheap to put more effort into it. Besides they probably figure who the hell would use it with just rca inputs bypasses the entire point of the device....haha just saying.

 

[Chris Ihao]

Ok. I trust you. Hehe. It still sounds great though. Not a newbie when it comes to audio here, considering I have been mixing and worked with audio for over a decade, (more seriously) on a hobby basis.

I also have the Oppo HA2, so I COULD use that for dac purposes.

 

[mikoss]

Yeppers. The T1 is a tube buffered DAC. The audio signal will only go through the tube if the USB input is being used.

It isn't a tube amp, just a solid state amp.

 

[Chris Ihao]

I surrender

The amp in itself is surprisingly good though, and NOTHING you guys say will change that. Lol! Are anyone able to connect directly from ipad/iphone to the T1, with a camera kit. Its a hassle to deal with a powered usb hub and all that. Will probably be able to rig something though.

 

[hdtv00]

Doesn't the iphone have a usb OTG type cable too. I'm pretty sure it does. That's all you'd need and you'll be right as rain. You REALLY want to be using it right with a nice tube. It's that much better.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Valhalla-Lightning-Connector-iPhone-iPad/dp/B00GDEOVHU
 
Something like that, but do some research first make sure it works like you need it to when it's connected. I'm sure in this thread people are using it with an apple device.
 
Quickly I searched and found this info in this thread.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-ss-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq-updated-on-02-14-15/3465#post_10042875
 
There is link to the post maybe you can just message them directly and ask their solution for iphone/apple devices.
 
"Also someone had problems with iPad/iOS and had to use powered usb hub. Might also be Apple software related issue but haven`t understood yet why because Aune T1 does not draw any power from USB, only data signals. Worth to try if you have powered usb hub laying around.
Yes, I have to use a small powered hub with the iPad or iPhone to avoid a "low power" reading, despite the fact that the T1 doesn't draw power from the USB port. It works great once you use the hub though."
 
 
And PS the amp section of the T1's aren't anything special at all really. Which is why so many change the caps and what not on their units. Or like me just use the RCA outputs into a much better amp(bottlehead crack for me). And then pure magic happens. I'm just trying to get you the best out of your investment. Plus the fact that the right tube, and music comes ALIVE.

 

[xkonfuzed]

Yes, the T1's amp isn't really its strong suit. The DAC is where it truly shines. If you think the amp is good, wait until you hear the T1 utilizing the DAC with a nice tube. It really is magical.
 
Speaking of amps, has anyone tried hooking up Aune's own B1 with the T1 yet? Im very curious as to how those two pair. Im more than ready to drop some $$ on a new amp that will drive my low impedance headphones and IEM's well. 

 

[Chris Ihao]

Cool. Thanks a lot hdtv. Will check it out. Never knew there was such a cable.

No hurry though. Just glad to have found this gear, and in particular with the free bundled Takstar. Will use my Oppo until then I guess.

 

[penmarker]

I'm curious as to why you haven't plugged the T1 into a computer via USB yet. You'd be able to hear the tube dac stage then.

 

[Chris Ihao]

I'm curious as to why you haven't plugged the T1 into a computer via USB yet. You'd be able to hear the tube dac stage then.

Only reason is that I'm in a moving process, and my stuff is in boxes and attics, my pc's and lightning to usb kit as well.

BUT, an interesting little "twist" is that a component inside of the T1 seems to have gone "pop" earlier today. I thought I smelled something burnt, but figured it was the smell of "new gear". Guess what. The smell is still there, in droves, and I have already written to the store I bought it for RMA. I guess your fingers are not supposed to smell burnt after holding the T1. Yay. This is the second time in two weeks I experience Chinese qc failing completely after ordering supposedly quality hardware. Hassle.

 

[Koolpep]

Only reason is that I'm in a moving process, and my stuff is in boxes and attics, my pc's and lightning to usb kit as well.

BUT, an interesting little "twist" is that a component inside of the T1 seems to have gone "pop" earlier today. I thought I smelled something burnt, but figured it was the smell of "new gear". Guess what. The smell is still there, in droves, and I have already written to the store I bought it for RMA. I guess your fingers are not supposed to smell burnt after holding the T1. Yay. This is the second time in two weeks I experience Chinese qc failing completely after ordering supposedly quality hardware. Hassle.

That indeed sucks. Hope you get it replaced ASAP. I have mine in the office and use it constantly for a year now. Works like a charm....
 
Cheers,
K

 

[creatip]

I debated that with someone in another thread here. Are you 100% this is the case with the mkII? This is what I wrote in that thread:

"Hmm. But why does the tube light up when running in line in mode? On this page, under 2), it says that it is a high quality "tube amplifier", while under 1) it says its a tube usb dac: http://en.auneaudio.com/html/en_products/NewDesign/T-Series/154_20.html"

With those 1 and 2 alternatives, I feel they differantiate between two seperate functions.

Also, its a bit strange if the tubes dont work when set to line, as the sound suddenly were messed up for a moment, as the tube were heating up for the first time. It would be rather stupid to fire up the tube as well, when running on line, if its not used. I dont have a clue though. I guess you know what you are talking about

Anyways, I wouldn't say its "pointless", considering it sounds awesome on the line setting, but it is a temporary solution anyways (my life is in boxes due to moving these days).

 
The tube part is used as the pre-amp buffer. It should go more or less like this: digital audio data from USB (PC or others) => DAC circuit => tube pre-amp circuit => solid state headphone amp. 
 
I've tried it, with the switch flicked to 'line', then I took off the tube. While the white LED is still on, I still got sounds, meaning the tube part is bypassed when in RCA line in mode. 
 
The guys aren't saying that the amp part is particularly bad, but they're saying you're missing on something better, the tube pre-amp part. It's kinda like driving a Ferrari, but never go above 100kph
 
The T1 can work with ipad, but needs a bit of workaround. You gotta have a USB hub in between. Any cheap one will do, I use a generic $3 hub to do the job. 
 
Here's a video I recorded to show that it's possible to do that:
 

 
*tapped the mic at the beginning of the video, to show that the audio recorded was indeed from that lapel mic, recording the sound leak of the headphone in function. It goes: ipad => camera connection kit => usb hub (to 'fool' the ipad's restriction) => T1

 

[mikoss]

...
BUT, an interesting little "twist" is that a component inside of the T1 seems to have gone "pop" earlier today. I thought I smelled something burnt, but figured it was the smell of "new gear". Guess what. The smell is still there, in droves, and I have already written to the store I bought it for RMA. I guess your fingers are not supposed to smell burnt after holding the T1. Yay. This is the second time in two weeks I experience Chinese qc failing completely after ordering supposedly quality hardware. Hassle.

That ******* sucks.

 

[Chris Ihao]

It goes: ipad => camera connection kit => usb hub (to 'fool' the ipad's restriction) => T1

Thanks mate. I will have to do something like that yes. The restrictions on the lightning port are SO ridiculous. Grrr. Is that an unpowered usb hub you are using? It varies if powered is necessary.

Also, thanks Koolpep and mikoss. Yeah, it sucks big time, especially since I have been unlucky lately with other gear as well. The good part is that I probably will be allowed to exchange it, judging from what the dealer told me via mail, and they are situated in the same town as me

 

[creatip]

Thanks mate. I will have to do something like that yes. The restrictions on the lightning port are SO ridiculous. Grrr. Is that an unpowered usb hub you are using? It varies if powered is necessary.

Also, thanks Koolpep and mikoss. Yeah, it sucks big time, especially since I have been unlucky lately with other gear as well. The good part is that I probably will be allowed to exchange it, judging from what the dealer told me via mail, and they are situated in the same town as me

 
That's a powered sub, but in that video, the power wasn't plugged. The problem is with the USB enumerator. It's like this: when you plug in a USB device, it takes about 0.5-1 seconds before windows recognize what it is, right? That's the process of 'introducing' itself, something like, 'hi, my name is X, I'm an audio device, etc, I need to draw Y mA of current from you to power myself'. Now this is where the ipad's restriction problem lies. Starting from IOS 4.2, idevices limit the max current that can be drawn through the camera connection kit to 20mA. This is their attempt to preserve battery life. 
 
When T1 is connected straight to the CCK, the T1 reports that it needs more than the max current allowed by the IOS. In reality, I don't think it will draw a lot of electricity via the USB, because the T1 already got its proprietary PSU. The hub's function is to trick the ipad in the initializing process. Hubs' enumerator always report a very low current draw, thus the IOS will allow it to connect. So in a sense, the hub's function is just to fool the 'gatekeeper' for the real device to gain access. I've successfully ran an E10 olympus, which is a bus-powered dac/amp with this method. 
 
Oh, and if you got a few of fried electric devices recently, you might want to check if there's anything wrong with your power line/plugs. Maybe the voltage is fluctuating frequently?

 

[Chris Ihao]

Oh, and if you got a few of fried electric devices recently, you might want to check if there's anything wrong with your power line/plugs. Maybe the voltage is fluctuating frequently?

Thanks for elaborating regarding that usb hub. Think I will try to find the smallest and cheapest non-powered hub I can get my hands on, and try that. I got a seven port powered hub available, but it just takes up a lot of space.

Regarding electrical currents: no, the other faulty device isnt connected to the mains, so thats (hopefully) not a problem here. I got a theory though, and that is that the metal caps of the rca cable (like many good brands use) may have just barely touched the metal casing, as the holes are far too narrow for its own good. Also, if the rca terminals are just barely misaligned, this could create a short. I think it would be a better solution to have a naked area around the terminals, as the metal casing is a really good conductor. I guess most people use the usb dac, so most people wont come across this potentially dangerous aspect of the construction.

Anyways, the retailer I bought it from was extremely service minded, and I will get a replacement already tomorrow afternoon, after delivering it to them. Very happy about this