Hi,
Quote:
I really just want to become a true knowledgeable audiophile.
We don't say "a true knowledgeable audiophile". Here we just simply say "MalVeauX"
First of all, I'm not the experienced audiophile that you seem to be looking for but...
I think the most important thing to keep in mind is this:
"A chain is only as strong as its weakest link"
I think that's pretty easy to understand. For example, if you listen to music with using your computer as a source, links could be:
1 - Recording quality
If you want this link to be strong, you should look for 'audiophile' recordings, most of the times made by Chesky Records, Telarc, Harmonia Mundi, and other well regarded labels. You should also read about Dynamic Range and Loudness War.
Here you have a good dynamic range database:
http://www.dr.loudness-war.info/
2 - File quality
(Good transcode) 16bit/44100Hz .mp3 [320Kbps] is a good start. Difference between this format and those with higher bitrate (FLAC, PCM) is not huge. Most of the times it is quite dificult to notice any difference.
What does 'good transcode' means?
http://www.whatinterviewprep.com/prepare-for-the-interview/transcodes/
3-DAC
Digital to Analog converter. This device take your digital file (.mp3, .flac, etc.) and converts it to an analog signal. This step happens in your soundcard or integrated audio chip in your laptop (or portable player). Getting a 'separate' higher quality DAC improves sound quality (transparency, soundstage, etc.)
4-Amp
This device amplifies that analog signal coming from the DAC. This step also take place in your soundcard, unless you have a 'separate' higher quality Amp. Separate amps are more transparent and less noisy and most of the times can work at higher voltages, and can give more current than an ordinary built in amplifier.
Most of the times high impedance headphones need high voltage to work properly. (Beyerdynamic DT880 600Ohm)
Most of the times low impedance headphones with low sensitivity need lots of current to work (Hifiman HE500)
5-Headphones
Some terms you should read about:
Open Back, Closed Back, High Impedance, Low Impedance, Bright, Dark, Cold, Warm, Planars, Electrostatics, Frequency response graphs (remember: Graphs are only Graphs. Sometimes really useful, sometimes useless)
Well, here we have 5 links (we can add cables as a 6th link but I prefer not to do that)
The most important and most of the times Weakest Links are 1, 2 and 5, then those are the ones to care firstly.
Another interesting things:
It is really common here to say "Welcome to Head-Fi, sorry about your wallet"
I must admit, I like that phrase very much, but then I must warn you, and I think a good way to do that is by just mentioning something called "law of diminishing returns"
Listening to music is not the same as listening to your equipment. I think it's sometimes useful to listen critically to your equipment, but after that you should still be able to listen to music through your equipment.
Finally, it's not good trying to build up conclusions about your gear too soon. Take your time, some days is a lot better than some hours.
We tend to hear in a comparative way with what our brain has as its reference, then if you have been listening to dark headphones for a year, you will probably hate a bright sounding one the first days you use it.
Hope you find this useful.
Best Luck!