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Anyone know how much are import duties in Sweden? Are they similar across EU?
You'll have to pay "moms" at least in addition to a fee to the company that does the custom clearance (here it's about 150 kr, might be slightly cheaper in Sweden). I don't believe there's any custom duty on electronics in Sweden but if you check tull.se you should find everything you need to know there.
Sometimes when i turn on my ps4/tv with the ps4 controller my nfb28 rapidly changes volume (sometimes up sometimes down) does anyone else have this issue or know what causes it.
If your ps4 controller uses infrared wireless if could be interfering with the infrared receiver that the nfb28 uses to communicate with its remote. The infrared codes could be similar, but not the same.
That's the thing the PS4 controller uses Bluetooth afaik maybe my TV sends out an IR signal that my nfb28 picks up.
I have had my NFB-28 since Oct 2013 and I recently upgraded my PC, from HP Z400 on Win7Pro to HP Z440 on Win10Pro, and I cannot get my new computer to recognize the NFB-28. I have had many emails in the past few days to Kingwa, and he specified for me to use Driver ver2 (which is actually for post Aug 2014 ships). I expect he is correct as when I tried the driver for my Oct 2013 build, it failed. In Nov 2014, I updated the firmware and to Driver ver1 on my old Z400.
Though the Driver ver2 install seemed to complete, my Win10 Z440 does NOT recognized the driver and the VIA ASIO shortcut would NOT work. Kingwa initially said that Win10 would require updated firmware, but after doing a firmware check, he then said that my firmware (updated in Nov 2014) was the latest for the VIA USB32. He now suggests changing the USB to either XMOS or Amanero.
1) Has anyone had success with getting a VIA USB32 NFB-28 work with Windows 10Pro? If so, what drivers and firmware were used?
2) How do the XMOS or Amanero USB differ? Trade-offs and recommendations?
3) How easy is the XMOS or Amanero USB modifications? (Describe)
4) Do XMOS or Amanero USB's ASIO work with 64-bit JRMC23?
5) Would an XMOS or Amanero modified Oct 2013 NFB-28 handle DSD files (without transcoding to PCM)?
All else being equal, I would expect that XMOS is a safer choice, as it seems to be the most widely used and probably the most supported going forward????
I use my NFB-28 to be a DAC/Pre to drive my balanced Focal CMS50 active monitors. I use JRiver MC23 64-bit and I have many DSD files (SACDs ripped to DSF with an Oppo 103). My old Z400 had to transcode my DSD files to 176K PCM.
JRMC started offering 64 bit version a few months ago, and my old Win7Pro Z400 and JRMC would NOT recognize the VIA ASIO (VIA is unsupported for 64 bit), but it was working fine using WASAPI.
XMOS is very wildly used and its a company that specifically does USB Audio products.
Amanaro is considered the best at this point in time (its from Italy) but I am not sure the support for the future considering the usage isn't as large as XMOS.
I haven't had the privilege of testing an Amanaro based product yet so I can't say the exact difference.
Personally I have 4 XMOS based products and they work nicely, although if the firmware isn't done right then its possible your computer will not go to sleep with the DAC on (will affect some computers).
Can anybody compare the sound of HA-1 and NFB-28.38?
No one has experience with both amps?
I am informing of Kingwa's responses to some of my questions:
What are the benefit differences between the XMOS and Amanero on a Oct 2013 NFB-28?----------There are not different on performance in your unit.
Will they work with Windows 10Pro x64?------------Of course.
Will their ASIO drivers work with 64-bit JRiver?--------------I have not Jriver so can not test. But these two modules had very widely applied on other brands I think you may can ask others.
With these USB connectors on a Oct 2013 NFB-28, will it be able to play DSD?-----------No, just support PCM up to 192K 32 bit.
After several emails with Kingwa, the Chinese/English communication issues left me uneasy regarding whether replacing the VIA USB32 board with the XMOS U208 board could be done without soldering, I decided on another solution:
I have ordered the Schiit Eitr, USB to SPDIF Coax converter. From reviews this product is a very high performing USB interface and has galvanic isolation (w/ transformers), its own linear PS, and separate 44K and 48K base clocks.
The Eitr is limited to 192K-24bit PCM (no DSD), but my 2013 unit is limited to that anyway, but the Eitr should have cleaner results than the Audio-gd USB boards due to its transform isolation between PC USB and DAC coax input.
Hi All. I have a NFB-28 (2014) and the Audio-GD aluminum remote for sale. I'm the only owner, in very good condition. I'm thinking $600 but am open. Wanted to post on this thread before posting on the "for sale" forum.
Hello. This is my first post on this forum. I just purchased the nfb-28 (2015) with amanero usb. I have a problem with the volume control on the amplifier. I cant control volume from the knob itself, only on my PC (windows 10). Even if the volume is physical turned down to 0 on the amplifier it seems like it send out full signal/voltage. If i turn the volume knob to full strenght it doesn’t affect the volume.
This happens in USB input and also with optical. I’ve tried on a different computer as well, but it’s the same thing. So when I have the windows volume over 10% it’s super loud. Is this how it’s suppose to be? Or do my unit have some sort of defect.
I tried with different gain with no luck. I’m using it with my Audeze lcd-2.
I hope you understand what I mean. English isn’t my first language.
I recommend you contact Audio GD directly and ask. It would probably help if you took a video with your phone, uploaded to YouTube and include it in your email to them.
Their contact info is listed here:
Have You checked the button (silver) on the back of the NFB28? It is used when You want to choose between dac+preamp and just fixed level dac.
I sent a video of the problem to Audio-gd, and they think maybe there is a loose 6-pin socket inside the amp. I will Open the cover and check inside.
Update. Nothing loose inside. So there is probably a problem with the volume board.