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Audio-GD NFB-11.32 & NFB-11 (2014) (Delivery & Impression Thread)!!!

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by heatfan12, Aug 25, 2012.
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  1. djsolidsnake86
    guys another question, sorry
    it's possible that the power supply of the speaker amplifier (24v 5A) make a incompatibility with nfb 11.28?
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2019
  2. Elder
    Try using a USB HUB on the USB-C 3.1 port of your computer.
    As I said, it is very likely that the amplifier noise is getting into USB interface. The amp's power supply, if it is a switched mode one, may generate noise and may cause inference. You said that, with the RCA cables connected to the amp, the issue happens when you connect its power supply to the outlet. This may indicate that the power supply is inducing noise, because de problem happens even if the amp is off. This amp requires a high current power supply. Try using a different power supply (at least 12V/3.5A). Cheap switched mode power supplies may have poor EMI filtering. Look for a good power supply. A simple wall wart may not be good enough. If you get a linear (not switched mode) power supply, it is better. You can also try using a 12V battery.
    Be careful to no invert the voltage polarity (check the indications on amp's power input label). If you connect a battery to your amp with the inverted polarity, you will burn it.

    Did you try to use a different power strip for the amp?
    Did you try to lift the ground (earth) wire of one of the power strips (either the one for the computer or for the amp)?
    When you connect the RCA cable, a ground loop may be formed. Lifting the ground wire from one of the devices may interrupt the noise path through the ground.
    You can experiment combinations of power connections of PC, DAC and amp. You can try connect the PC in the same power strip of the DAC and the amp in another one, or connect the DAC and the amp in the same strip but the PC in the other.
    Did you try to use other USB cable? The DAC does not require power from the USB, so the power pins of the USB connectors can be covered with tape.

    The DAC gets a little hot, but not too much. It uses linear voltage regulators and a highly biased headphone amplifier (almost class A). These circuits generate heat.
    There is no auto shutdown on idle. It is safe to leave it powered on all the time, but the only advantage to do so is keeping it warm and ready for use at its best, but this will waste a lot of energy and reduce the life time of the components, I believe.
    It is normal to have the Combo384 safe remove icon in the system tray. No need to safe remove before disconnecting or powering down the unit.
    I do not have the issue with having to cycle power the DAC to make the PC detecting it after reboot. I do not know what is causing this with your PC. Does this only happen with the amp connected or does it always happen? Was this happening with other PC that you said that was working?
     
  3. djsolidsnake86
    hi man! i solved my problem
    the issue was caused by the amp power supply! i tried a 12v 2A and a 19V 3A, and now all work correctly! no more issue! :D
    so these components have a life time?
     
  4. Elder
    I am glad that you solved the mistery.
    12V/2A is not powerful enough and 19V/3A is out of the specs. The amp chip supports a wider voltage rage than the one specified by the SMSL but the amp uses other components, like capacitors, so 19V maybe too much. With a higher voltage you'll get more power but the chip may get hotter than with the maximum specified 15V. The case is small and the heat sink, if there is any, may not allow the extra heat to be dissipated. Look for a good power supply in the 12-15V range. 4A or more. More current means better bass and dynamics.
    Everything has a life time. Electronic components too. No need to be too worried about. Usually the life time is very long, except for tubes.
    While the DAC is new, it is good to leave it on and playing a long time for burning in. After that burning in time, no need to keeping on all the time.
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2019
  5. djsolidsnake86
    using the 19v for long times, the case of the smsl is always cold! so i think is good!
    however i saw this thing:
    using the 19v, if the smsl is off and if i'm listening music from nfb via headphones, if i make on the smsl, the music disappear from hp, and if i select variable and fixed no music, i must close the music app and reopen for make reappear the music
    this don't happen if i use the 12v 2a
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2019
  6. Elder
    Open the amp case and check the electrolict capacitors voltage rate. It must be higher than 19V, otherwise they will blow.
     
  7. djsolidsnake86
    however i saw this thing:
    using the 19v, if the smsl is off and if i'm listening music from nfb via headphones, if i on the smsl, the music disappear from hp, and if i select variable and fixed no music, i must close the music app and reopen for make reappear the music
    this don't happen if i use the 12v 2a

    ps. this smsl support 12-24v
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2019
  8. Elder
    It looks like you still have an EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference) issue.
     
  9. djsolidsnake86
    with 12v 2a seem no interference
    i will try a 12v 5a.. do you think that can cause interference?
     
  10. OctavianH
    I have a problem after upgrade to Windows 10 1903 that the OS blocked my drivers? Does anyone found a solution for this? I tried several things but nothing worked.

    Later edit: It seems the solution was simple. I just unistalled and reinstalled drivers manually from Device Manager.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2019
  11. lemarsghast
    How do the nfb11.28 compare with the jds atom?
     
  12. skinwizard
    I purchased an NFB 11 used. Is there an easy way to tell what year/version?
     
  13. capetownwatches
    [​IMG]

    Mine was made in February 2017.
     
    skinwizard likes this.
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