[seaice]

SU-1 benefits from a better power supply with my M7. You may be surprised how a better power can improve SU-1.

The Audioquest Mocha (i.e. Coffee) has been another big surprise to me. I tried several 0.5m and 1m HDMI cables before but the Mocha is realy an improvement in my setup. It is 1m but everything is cleaner and more real.

 

[riffer]

I still like my Gustard U12, but I have a new Matrix Audio X-SPDIF 2 here that I am trying to find some time to test. XMOS U208, decent clocks, and the I2s pinout matches the Audio-gd, unlike the Gustard. I've been through a bunch of these.

As for the USB32, I have a DIYinHK XMOS XU216 PCB that I did a quick jury rigged install in the M7 of and it worked well. Again, another project that I can't find the time for despite having all the pins, wires and connectors in stock.

 

[motberg]

I still like my Gustard U12, but I have a new Matrix Audio X-SPDIF 2 here that I am trying to find some time to test. XMOS U208, decent clocks, and the I2s pinout matches the Audio-gd, unlike the Gustard. I've been through a bunch of these.

As for the USB32, I have a DIYinHK XMOS XU216 PCB that I did a quick jury rigged install in the M7 of and it worked well. Again, another project that I can't find the time for despite having all the pins, wires and connectors in stock.

Looking forward to your confirmation the new Matrix works well via i2s with Audio-GD.. I have not yet seen that has been confirmed.
If you have the chance... please also mention the jumper positions required on the Matrix..
I like the Matrix as it seems a bit smaller than the SU-1 (very important with short/stiff i2s HDMI cables), and also allows easier upgrade to the power supply as it offers a direct DC input..
Thanks!

 

[xrobbo]

So I finally found a Singxer SU-1 2nd hand and bought it. Installed yesterday evening. Even with the standard PSU the improvement is significant. Middle and treble are sharper, with a sense of improved clearness. Bass are tighter and more present.
I have planar speakers (Magneplanar 3.7) and it is sometimes difficult to get a perfect scene with the big speaker disappearing. This also with the Singxer seems to be no more a problem.
In the past I had audio gd own digital bridge, but the Singxer is decidedly better than these. In the next days I'll replace the PSU and see what happens.

 

[riffer]

Looking forward to your confirmation the new Matrix works well via i2s with Audio-GD.. I have not yet seen that has been confirmed.
If you have the chance... please also mention the jumper positions required on the Matrix..
I like the Matrix as it seems a bit smaller than the SU-1 (very important with short/stiff i2s HDMI cables), and also allows easier upgrade to the power supply as it offers a direct DC input..
Thanks!

Will do.

 

[Pablovila]

So I finally found a Singxer SU-1 2nd hand and bought it. Installed yesterday evening. Even with the standard PSU the improvement is significant. Middle and treble are sharper, with a sense of improved clearness. Bass are tighter and more present.
I have planar speakers (Magneplanar 3.7) and it is sometimes difficult to get a perfect scene with the big speaker disappearing. This also with the Singxer seems to be no more a problem.
In the past I had audio gd own digital bridge, but the Singxer is decidedly better than these. In the next days I'll replace the PSU and see what happens.

Hi:
I am getting my Singxer today, and I don't have any idea what cables I need. Any advice is more than welcome Pablo.

 

[DACLadder]

Hi: I am getting my Singxer today, and I don't have any idea what cables I need. Any advice is more than welcome Pablo.

I just use a Pangea 2.0m USB cable and a Wireworld Silver Starlight 6 HDMI cable (0.3m) that I purchased off Ebay for about $100. For a given HDMI cable brand/ model the shorter the cable = less jitter. Don't buy a 5m cable when 1m will do. The shorter HDMI cable will better preserve signal integrity.

Others may have differing opinions on USB cable but the data on USB is asynchronous anyway. You just need zero data errors, no interference, and clean transfer of +5V power. But you probably want something better than the $2 generic cables supplied with products.

My advice is to use what you have and borrow some cables to see if they make any difference. With the old Master 7 I could detect audible effects when using generic HDMI cables longer than 1m. Keep 'em as short as possible.

Congrats on the SU-1. Mine has worked flawlessly for 18 months.

 

[Pablovila]

I just use a Pangea 2.0m USB cable and a Wireworld Silver Starlight 6 HDMI cable (0.3m) that I purchased off Ebay for about $100. For a given HDMI cable brand/ model the shorter the cable = less jitter. Don't buy a 5m cable when 1m will do. The shorter HDMI cable will better preserve signal integrity.

Others may have differing opinions on USB cable but the data on USB is asynchronous anyway. You just need zero data errors, no interference, and clean transfer of +5V power. But you probably want something better than the $2 generic cables supplied with products.

My advice is to use what you have and borrow some cables to see if they make any difference. With the old Master 7 I could detect audible effects when using generic HDMI cables longer than 1m. Keep 'em as short as possible.

Congrats on the SU-1. Mine has worked flawlessly for 18 months.

THANKS! PABLO.

 

[DACLadder]

I see Kingwa changed the name of the Singularity 7 (S7) to "Master 7 Singularity". So I can no longer refer to the old Master 7 upgrade with SIngularity DSP board as simply "M7S". Hope this clarifies usage for new lookers....

 

[DACLadder]

And a reminder to not hot-plug HDMI I2S cables with power applied on the units. I blew up an Off Ramp 5 doing so and Kingwa has many warnings to not hot-plug the HDMI cables.

 

[Pablovila]

And a reminder to not hot-plug HDMI I2S cables with power applied on the units. I blew up an Off Ramp 5 doing so and Kingwa has many warnings to not hot-plug the HDMI cables.

Hi:
Can I ask a very, very stupid question: I don't see an HDMI input on my GD Audio Master 7 ... Do I have to change my glasses or my DAC? Thanks, Pablo.

 

[DACLadder]

Hi: Can I ask a very, very stupid question: I don't see an HDMI input on my GD Audio Master 7 ... Do I have to change my glasses or my DAC? Thanks, Pablo.

You may not have the correct I2S I/O board for Input 5 (IN 5). If the connector is a RJ-45 then you have the originally shipping TTL I2S interface.

You can purchase HDMI I2S boards from Audio GD. Tell Kingwa the board is for the old Master 7. Just unscrew the TTL board and replace with the HDMI version.

http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/I2Skits/I2SEN.htm

And speaking of old Master 7 tweeks have you installed the 2016 DSP firmware update? Most everyone who has loaded the firmware agrees it sounds much better than the original version (myself included).

 

[Pablovila]

You may not have the correct I2S I/O board for Input 5 (IN 5). If the connector is a RJ-45 then you have the originally shipping TTL I2S interface.

You can purchase HDMI I2S boards from Audio GD. Tell Kingwa the board is for the old Master 7. Just unscrew the TTL board and replace with the HDMI version.

http://www.audio-gd.com/Pro/diy/I2Skits/I2SEN.htm

And speaking of old Master 7 tweeks have you installed the 2016 DSP firmware update? Most everyone who has loaded the firmware agrees it sounds much better than the original version (myself included).

Thank you very much for the explanation! I'll see what is the best route to go, because I was seriously considering selling my old Master 7 and buying the new DAC Ladder model. Regarding the firmware update, I tried to download it a couple of years ago, but I was totally unsuccessful and, honestly, I couldn't follow Kingwa's instruction (my fault, not his ...). Just in order to see if the Singxer is working I will use a SPDIF cable that I have somewhere. Now I have to make some decisions. A friend of mine has bought a Holo Spring and is very, very happy with his purchase. Tough decisions in the horizon. One more time, many thanks for your help. Pablo.

 

[Pablovila]

O.K. I found a Creative Cable Green Hornet. I assume that this goes from the S/PDIF2 in the Singxer to the IN 3 in the Master 7. Am I right? Thanks, Pablo.

 

[motberg]

I just use a Pangea 2.0m USB cable and a Wireworld Silver Starlight 6 HDMI cable (0.3m) that I purchased off Ebay for about $100. For a given .

I agree with both these suggestions.
I got my WW 0.3M HDMI for around $40 as a closeout somewhere.... the old Ultraviolet model 0.3M works great also if you can find one.
Pangena has a couple different USB versions I think. I have a few of the AG cables which seem to perform similarly to my more expensive stuff.