Separate names with a comma.
Don't remove it.
You can just bypass everything by putting all the appropriate pins on.
could you precise appropriate pins you speak about please ?
if it is like every other audio-gd product i've had...the glue is mainly for shipping and easily peels off with no mess. sometimes the jumpers fit loose and easily could fall off during shipping potentially. can you provide photo? I should be able to confirm. but 99% sure.
If you want to bypass everything, put a jumper on every pin I highlighted in yellow (this will be true NOS mode with no data dithering or PLL--you might find you have issues with it):
I will try and when I open up the case, I will take some pictures of the glued pin.
When you look at the usb board from the top there are two rows of connectors. The row n the left has red jumpers on every connection
The row on the right has almost no jumpers depending how it was setup at the factory. Do not touch or try to remove any of the jumpers on the left
Work only with the connector row on the right and follow Audio-GD guidelines for placing or removing jumpers for the Master 7. This info is on there website. Hope this helps
my m7 had glue on 1st pin too but there was no big problem to remove it. it's not so strong, just to hold pin more surely i think
Hi, I was also wondering whether removing the bypass jumper was the same as putting all the other jumpers on.
I run my Master 7 with HQ player who oversamples and applies the appropriate digital filters, hence I would run the Master 7 in a really non oversampling and nonfiltering mode. What is the exact combination of jumpers for that?
I've tried removing the bypass and it sounds very good.
Besides, I confirm there is a little glue but very easily removable and the jumper comes off with no effort.
Thanks a lot to you all.
+1 on the thanks! I look forward to trying this myself in the next few weeks...
When comparing M7 to other DACs, like the Yggy, it would be nice to know what interconenct connection has been used, as we know that Audio GD gears work at their best with their ACSS (mini xlr) connection, and then also, which jumper configuration is used, as it appears there are dramatic impacts there too.
Regarding jumper settings, did you guys applied what Dandy is advising?
On the high-end DAC, this one looks quite good: http://www.junilabs.com/fr/products/jundactwo.html
But still on my side, as I already own a Master 10, I will go for the Master 7, so I remain in the same brand/sound signature and can link both in ACSS.
Regarding cables, I might advise you to go for the french brand Why Not. These are no-compromise high-end, especially their top-range named Opus18.
I think the AGD M7 works best with LVDS I2S, myself.
Yes it does, but I think he meant DAC to amp cable.
How does the Eddie Current Studio sounding?
Indeed, I did, DAC to amp
Yes, I belatedly realized that. It's what I get for trying to visit this forum on a "drive-by schmoozing" basis.
And yes, I also agree that current controlled analog signal transmission such as ACSS is superior to voltage controlled, which requires impedance matching.
The Studio is every bit as good as what I expected at its price point and probably more. It really brings home the fact that the sound quality from your audio setup is usually limited by a single component "choke point", and that an upgrade of that component results in a tangible improvement that is easily heard and hugely appreciated. In my case, the Studio feeding into my speakers changed that music output from incidental listening while engaged in apartment activities to superior soundstage breadth and positioning to my best headphone gear configuration. It actually changed my listening preference.