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Audio GD Master-11(Combination from Master 7 and Master 9)

Discussion in 'High-end Audio Forum' started by doyouknowsbmean, Jul 6, 2015.
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  1. Rockin_Zombie
    Fellow m11 owners, question: if I have devices connected both the rca out and XLR out of the preamp, does the output power from preamp get halved, or are they independent of each other?
     
  2. GrdironTrenches
    So I notice Audio GD updated the site and it now has firmware upgrade information http://www.audio-gd.com/Master/Master-7_384/DSPupdataEN.htm . So the site has updating instructions for online version but maybe the other method is better. The USB Soundblaster must be purchased for updating manually after AGD releases the firmware? Also is there a english version of Quartus
     
    munce31 likes this.
  3. munce31
    The 'other' method is for those which aren't confident in flashing the firmware themselves.
     
    The USB blaster is absolutely required to flash the Cyclone II FPGA chip, so make sure you got it or else you wont be able to flash to the new firmware.
     
    Quartus comes in English.
     
  4. ehein324
    For this update, is it worth doing only if you are using the I2S HDMI input?
     
    If the USB input is being used, is this also required?
     
    Sorry, but very new to these things.
     
  5. GrdironTrenches
    Which USB Blaster would work or does it matter. Id prefer not to buy the one linked on agd because its shipped overseas
     
  6. Clemmaster
    The upgrade improves the timing in the FPGA. It is a good upgrade in any cases.
    Might be more dramatic with worse sources (SPDIF).
     
  7. ehein324
    Thanks a lot for the input.
    So, the update comes out in November. Looking forward to seeing the differences.
     
  8. ehein324
    I am trying to install the I2S HDMI module on my Master 11 - seems simple enough.
    The electrical socket for the I2S is glued and very difficult to remove from the board.
    I do not want to break anything - does anyone have suggestions or experience with this? I had thought that it would just unplug and then I could plug in the new socket.
    Thanks for any help.
     
  9. Clemmaster
    Heat gun.
     
  10. bimmer100

    My experience is to just peel the glue up. Personally I would not use a heat gun. Too risky imho.
     
  11. ehein324
    Thanks for the advice - really helpful. ​I will try a razor knife to loosen the glue.
    Are there clips or clasps of any type that need to be released? There is really a lot of glue.
     
  12. bimmer100
    Gosh, mine had glue but it peeled off easily. It seems like rubber cement. Which rubber just peeled off. If using a razor, maybe be ultra careful you don't slip

    I don't recall, but I thought the plugs had clips that can be how it locks in easier. I think I used a dental tool and carefully pry'd one side at a time til it came up.
     
  13. ehein324
    Thanks a lot - very good advice. I will just be careful and not force the plug.
     
  14. ehein324
    Bimmer,

    I got th plug out no problem - thanks for th tips.
    Is there any secret as to how to solder the 3.3v wir?
    The spot that I am supposed to solder in is right between the 2 sockets and is mostly covered up by on of them. No access to get the tip of my solder iron at it.
    Any suggestions?
     
  15. bimmer100
     
     
    sometimes those white plugs can slide straight up and off if your are careful. to make more clearance. otherwise the way to do it is with a small iron.
     
    but they can be pricey for good irons of that size. my hakko has no issues with that tolerance with a tiny tip. but i wouldnt recommend buying a new iron for this.... i recall seeing a brand of iron for under 20-30bucks that has a micro tip, but not sure.  the best iron for the job imho is. t30-I or t30-J tip with Hakko FM2032-51 Micro Soldering Handpiece. but big money to pair with the station it needs. 
     
    do some searching online for a super low profile tip. 1mm tip etc...
     
    problem is a lot of those tips that are not made too well and can cause damage if you don't know what you're doing. as they don't heat properly like the hakko micro irons. 
     
    maybe consider pulling the white plugs off the pins should stay on the board and with a light amount of heat the platic should get soft enough to slide them up. but too much heat would damage them. i'd try pulling cold or with a hair dryer to just warm them slightly. but remember which direction they go backon :D 
     
    they are keyed!
     
    some people just end up melting the plug slightly. And I think there may be another place to hookup the lead, but maybe someone else can comment.  It's been way too long since i've done this to remember.
     
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