[Zachik]

A better answer is probably

PC -> USB -> DI-20HE ->>>>>>>>
////// coax ////////////////// DAC
Streamer -> coax -> DI-20HE ->

I still prefer an external switch. That would also allow me to compare Coax output of DI-20HE vs. Coax output of other DDC...

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Well, not exactly

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Hey guys, here's a clock I haven't seen mentioned https://teac-usa.com/cg-10m-master-clock-generator

I just saw it on studio22 in Madrid, it's 1.700 euros. At the price point it looks pretty good. However, the drive level is pretty low and it's sinewave only. Meh..

 

[dougms3]

Does anyone know the specific differences between the DI-20 and the DI-20HE?

 

[Jandu]

Does anyone know the specific differences between the DI-20 and the DI-20HE?

HE version uses its own power supply. So the supply power is regenerated.

Performance is another level or 2 better

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Does anyone know the specific differences between the DI-20 and the DI-20HE?

In addition to what @Jandu said, take a look at the Audio-gd website, there is a lot of info there on each product page. Also the pics are very helpful because you can see major differences like extra transformers etc. I just wish the pics had higher resolution.

But, the audio definitely has high resolution!

Also, the DI-20HE is bigger than the non-HE version. They are both the same width and height, but the HE version is deeper front to back.

 

[dougms3]

In addition to what @Jandu said, take a look at the Audio-gd website, there is a lot of info there on each product page. Also the pics are very helpful because you can see major differences like extra transformers etc. I just wish the pics had higher resolution.

But, the audio definitely has high resolution!

Also, the DI-20HE is bigger than the non-HE version. They are both the same width and height, but the HE version is deeper front to back.

Was just curious to hear perspectives.

I can see it literally has twice as much going on inside but its hard to decipher whats going on in audio-gd gear, like it was developed by a mad scientist. If going by chip count alone it has to be the best value.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Was just curious to hear perspectives.

I can see it literally has twice as much going on inside but its hard to decipher whats going on in audio-gd gear, like it was developed by a mad scientist. If going by chip count alone it has to be the best value.

If you hear and feel the gear you can tell there are no games going on. It's the most solid gear I have seen. And the sound is incredible.

 

[slazhx]

Hi guys,

I need little help. After successfully upgrading FPGA (w/ Altera USB Blaster) and CPLD (w/ Xilinx USB Blaster) on my R7HE, I continued to do the FPGA on my DI-20HE. However, the program showed "no device detected when running JTAG chain debugger". Any help? (see attached pictures)

1. Followed update instruction suggested by @DACLadder posted years ago
2. I use Quartus 16 on Windows 10 / 64 bit
3. ISE 14.7 (which is not relevant here)
4. Both Altera, Xilinx USB Blasters, and the software version should be fine as I also used them to upgrade my R7HE successfully.
5. Also tried Quartus 12, didn't help.
6. Successfully did reflash Amanero firmware on DI-20.
7. Core isolation turned off as @gimmeheadroom suggested.

Thank you.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

I don't know, I expect somebody will help soon. But in the meantime, make sure you followed the power on/off and connection sequence in @DACLadder document, it seems the order is important.

 

[DACLadder]

Hi guys,

I need little help. After successfully upgrading FPGA (w/ Altera USB Blaster) and CPLD (w/ Xilinx USB Blaster) on my R7HE, I continued to do the FPGA on my DI-20HE. However, the program showed "no device detected when running JTAG chain debugger". Any help? (see attached pictures)

1. Followed update instruction suggested by @DACLadder posted years ago
2. I use Quartus 16 on Windows 10 / 64 bit
3. ISE 14.7 (which is not relevant here)
4. Both Altera, Xilinx USB Blasters, and the software version should be fine as I also used them to upgrade my R7HE successfully.
5. Also tried Quartus 12, didn't help.
6. Successfully did reflash Amanero firmware on DI-20.
7. Core isolation turned off as @gimmeheadroom suggested.

Thank you.

The Quartus s/w is not seeing the target Altera device on the 10-pin ribbon cable. Make sure the DI-20 is powered up before attempting. Also verify the DI-20 rear panel 10-pin header connector does not have have any visibly bent pins. Those are the easy checks. There is also an internal cable from the backpanel 10-pin header connector to the circuit board. The circuit board connector may have popped loose during shipping.

Tthe Quartus s/w sees the Blaster connected on the USB port. Problem is the Blaster does not detect the Altera chip on the the 10-pin ribbon cable. Process of elimination and best of luck.

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Unrelated question- In the instructions you created I read that during parts of the process you should disconnect the blaster. For me this is very hard due to lack of space behind my shelving. Is it possible and fine to leave the blaster connected to the jtag port at all times and when instructions call for it to be disconnected just to disconnect the PC/USB end? Or is that a bad idea? Ideally I'd like to leave the blaster connected in case I need to use it though so far I had to only once on my R8.

 

[DACLadder]

Unrelated question- In the instructions you created I read that during parts of the process you should disconnect the blaster. For me this is very hard due to lack of space behind my shelving. Is it possible and fine to leave the blaster connected to the jtag port at all times and when instructions call for it to be disconnected just to disconnect the PC/USB end? Or is that a bad idea? Ideally I'd like to leave the blaster connected in case I need to use it though so far I had to only once on my R8.

Should be OK to leave the Blaster connected on the target side. I have for days testing f/w. But would turn DAC/DI power off before connecting/ disconecting the USB side with 10-pin cable connected.. See ”Hardware Setup” on pags 1-2, 1-3 for proper method of connecting the Blaster for use. Note the warning at the top of page 1-3 about connecting USB cable before attaching the 10-pin connector to the ‘target‘.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/598/g_usb_blstr_v2.5-876789.pdf

 

[gimmeheadroom]

Should be OK to leave the Blaster connected on the target side. I have for days testing f/w. But would turn DAC/DI power off before connecting/ disconecting the USB side with 10-pin cable connected.. See ”Hardware Setup” on pags 1-2, 1-3 for proper method of connecting the Blaster for use. Note the warning at the top of page 1-3 about connecting USB cable before attaching the 10-pin connector to the ‘target‘.
https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/598/g_usb_blstr_v2.5-876789.pdf

Thank you!

I'm not sure I understand the warning there- it seems the same as what you said about powering off the device before disconnecting or connecting USB?

 

[DACLadder]

@gimmeheadroom Just a safety measure. You are basically connecting GND of the PC to your DI/DAC and could cause a voltage spike until things settle.

I blew up an Off Ramp 5 DDC hot plugging HDMI I2S to a Master 7. Blew the protection diodes on the OR5 HDMI interface. So better safe than sorry!!