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Android phones and USB DACs

Discussion in 'Portable Source Gear' started by nztechfreak, Feb 9, 2012.
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  1. Creabstick
    No I didn't. I had no idea it does that :/ Why would it want to do that? How would I disable such nonsense?
  2. music4mhell
    Every one is trying to disable this, but till now no luck :frowning2:
    Please let me know, if you get the solution :D
  3. Joe Bloggs Contributor

    It does this, because the system assumes there may be other audio streams from other apps running before / after / concurrently with the music you're listening to. If the DAC changes hardware sampling rate every time the input audio sample rate changes there would be breaks in the audio every time. And if two different rate streams are running concurrently the system must resample at least one of them.

    To avoid these breaks in the audio the system sticks with one sample rate no matter what the input. In android 4/5 this was 44.1 or 48kHz, this was apparently too low-res for people so the new standard appears to be 192kHz.
  4. gnarlsagan
    Android N preview 4 is out. Will install on Nexus 9 tonight and test USB audio out to the Mojo.
  5. H20Fidelity Contributor
    I purchased a Lenovo Tab 2 A10-30 for $215 AUD recently for late night Netflix, I read it had OTG capabilities. I plugged my Tralucent DacAmp One in which worked immediately plug n play. Something to think about for home use.
  6. willywill
    Android all the way
  7. Middy
    I don't know if others have a power drain issue with thier kit?
    Picking the expert brains here.
    I Run Audio pro from an S5 Sammy.
    I run the chain to an IFI PURIFIER 2 Attached to an INTONA to my Oppo HA1.

    I think the Intona is killing the battery. Would killing the power from the OTG and feeding the last part of the chain ifi intona work? Maybe a powered hub.

    I get about an hour and a half tops. But it does sound good...Any suggestions?


  8. anticute

    I have a Lenovo a10-70,and my recently acquired Zuperdac works beautifully :)
  9. H20Fidelity Contributor
    Works out well for me because I sold my Galaxy Note 3 recently which I used mainly for external DACs.
    Its a good deal, get a tablet for movies which doubles as my new transport around the house. :)
  10. Sulbh
    I am new to DACs and AMPs.So technically an amp just amplifies the signal that is fed to it without changing the character of sound.Then why do people say they can hear different sound character after amping like wider soundstage or tighter bass.And my other question is about DAC.So technically when you connect a dac/amp to device it bypass the internal circuitry of the device and the device is then just used as a storage.So by this logic there should be no difference in sound using a dac/amp connected to a $3 chinese music player or a $1000 ak120 right?
  11. oliwek
    1. Because some (hungry) headphones need more current (than what smartphones can provide) to really perform the best (wider soundstage/more powerfull bass/... it depends on the HP model). Some AMPs do also colour the sound (warmer sounding tube AMPs for example).
    2. If your source outputs digitally the correct (error free) data to the DAC/AMP, no need to use expensive hardware (but this expensive DAP has other qualities : multi-microSD storage, battery life, screen and user interface quality, hardware buttons, internal quality DAC and opamps so you don't have to stack an external DAC-amp when you use portable headphones...)
  12. oliwek
    then the question is : does HD audio really enhance anything in a car audio system ?
    maybe on a (silent) parking lot ?
    (I guess you don't drive with Audeze or HD800 cans, do you ?)
  13. TadMorose
    No, I don't drive around with headphones. [​IMG]
    My goal was to connect the phone through DAC to my car's AUX input. Meridian Explorer 2  has two outputs - one for headphones, another is line out to connect to external amps, etc.
    My experiment hit a snag. I was able to connect the DAC to my car, but the sound is horrible. Really distorted. Not sure where the problem is - the 3.5 mm cable I bought, or maybe it's the car's AUX input. In my car (Mercedes Benz) there is no direct AUX input jack. It has a special connector port (they call it media interface) that is used to connect different devices with special cables that came with the car. One of the cables has an AUX input socket. I haven't had the time to experiment with this and find out where the problem is - the 3.5 mm cable or the car's AUX cable and/or media interface.
    I know the DAC's line out is not the problem, as I connected it to my home A/V receiver with a 3.5 mm to RCA cable and it plays just fine.
  14. ProtegeManiac Contributor
    Not necessarily a silent parking lot, but a proper system with:
    1. Properly mounted drivers especially the tweeters, with toe-in that manages glare/relative gain on the nearside unit as well as reflections off the windshield, in order to center the soundstage (this also assumes quality drivers were used to begin with)
    2. Proper electronics that allow for custom time alignment on each driver relative to the driver seat (ie the downside is that this screws up the sound on every seat) - DSP with 5(front high + front mid/bandpass + mono sub, except the sub out still has two RCA sockets) channel outputs that has crossovers to split the signal, time delay on each driver, plus one amplifier channel on each driver (since the crossovers are applied in the digital stage, the passive crossovers are rendered useless)
    3. Proper sound dampening - even a Japanese or Korean sedan can have a noise floor almost at the same level as a BMW cabin using sound dampening materials around the cabin, including the floor and on the interior side of the wheel arches. Also (relatively) silent running touring tyres vs whatever the factory or the boy racer next door usually uses
    Still, even all these are just meant to deal with the actual issues of listening in a car, and even though such a system will make for a better platform to appreciate any difference in file formats, at the end of it all it's still a car. I'd rather have thousands of 320kbps in a thumb drive as long as I have the hardware above, which again deals more with the cabin than the idea of GIGO (when 320kbps isnt even "garbage" really), which is easier to use. DSPs for cars have long taken into account how some people are averse to taking apart stock systems (particularly with factory GPS and such), and in most cases the amp is built into the stereo console (other cars have RCA outputs and an amp hidden somewhere), so they take high-level (speaker amp) outputs as inputs, run the signal through an ADC which enables the use of the DSP, which allows for time alignment that deals with the fact that most people don't own a Maclaren F1. Not only are the innate features of all cars besides the Maclaren F1 or Alpine show cars the bigger issue, but using the stock stereo player avoids having cables everywhere and an interface that stll has hardware buttons and knob that you can feel without looking, and no cables either.
  15. azazell86
    I've done last night the following set-up: LG G4 with a 200Gb 90Mbps Micro SD card -> OTG USB Cable -> USB Cable -> Burson Conductor with the PCM DAC board with also using the Headphone Amp output -> Audeze LCD 2 & Sennheiser HD800. Initially I was using FLAC Files through the default Android music player, but the audio was very choppy and full of artifacts. So I've downloaded the USB Audio Player Pro trial and tried their many USB tweaks and with USB Tweak 1 everything worked flawlesly :) great fix as I've been trying for months to get something working properly.
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