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I believe so but I'll let someone else confirm that before you go blowing anything up.
If you put a 10 Ohm power resistor across the terminal of each channel, you will get close to 8 Ohm as "seen" from the amp. Do not connect the resistors to ground.
Would you recommend 10 ohm 10 watt? Connect same as in the pic correct?
Yes and yes...
10 Ohm 10 Watt resistor connected to Com and 8 Ohm tap. This is correct?
I purchased 3 brands of power resistors and I believe they impart their own signature, while it may be very subtle it is there.
For those interested in different sound characteristics the following link provides some information which some may find valuable if you believe in that sort of thing, I do.
Thanks to all who have been gracious enough to give of their time and knowledge. I have learned soo much in the last few day. This looks to be a wonderful journey.
Massdrop has the Gustard H20 amp on for $800.00, and it looks intriguing from the perspective of the He-6, since it is spec'd at 12.000 mw at 32 Ohms.
Does anyone have any experience with this? I am tempted because I wonder whether it might be able to drive the He-6 much better than the amps I already have : Audiogd NFB1 amp, Violectric v281, and the Bryston 2b LP (via speaker taps), all of which I love, and all of which drive the He-6 pretty well... Question is whether the H20 can do any better than these other amps (given that one never seems to know when one has driven the He-6 to its very optimum best)...
If I had the budget, I would simply go for one of the First Watt amps (the F7, for example) and be done with it... But since I don't the search must continue...
Any helpful thoughts about the Gustard H20 would be highly appreciated.
I was thinking the same as you. I owned the H10 and it was a phenominal amp. It was much better than the Violectric equivalent. Gustard is very skilled at designing audio gear. I can't tell you about synergy though. If you can roll opamps like you could on the H10 that will be a huge positive. I put Burson V5 in my H10 and it killed gear that was much more expensive.
It is a close-up photo, but I expect you are right.
You can sell all of those amps and add the $800 to be spent on the H20 to fun a FirstWatt J2.
True, but if I were to do that, the J2 would have to serve all my other cans as well as it does the He-6, or I would be back with a whole "nother" problem: namely one amp that can only drive the He-6 properly, and several other cans, with no amp to drive them properly. So far, it seems I only hear the first Watt amps mentioned in conjunction with the He-6... I have no idea how well they would fare with my other cans, and how well do would do with my speakers.
Just put in some Duelund Cast-Graphite (Carbon) Silver resistors. Was not expecting resistors to impart such a dramatic effect on sound quality. They simply get out of the way. Vocals are now smooth. The NTE ceramic imparted a metalic sound almost brittle.
You won't need other cans...
I run the J2 with all of my cans. It's excellent with all of my cans. I'm still settling on a preamp though. The different preamps that I've tried have changed the way the J2 sounds.
That's a rather bold statement that displays a lot of faith in the He-6, if I may say so. But now that you mention it, I have a small question for you. The speaker amp which I currently use with the He-6 is the Bryston 2b LP, which does quite a decent job driving it, but I have no idea how its performance with the He-6 compares with those of heavy weights such as the J2... If you have compared them, could you share your comparative impressions? Thanks.
It is great that it handles other cans well, but how about speakers? My speakers are mostly 200-250 watts and spec'ed at 8 ohms and 88 db sensitivity... I really don't know how the First Watt's 25 watts into 8 ohm specification says about how it would perform with my speakers. The J2 represents quite a chunk of change for me, so it would be great if I could also use it for 2-channel speakers listening.