Freya was the preamp, tried passive, JFET and tubes. Vidar is slightly lacking in air but is very stout in the bass. Very good driver control and a good stage depth, pushing everything further away, more speaker-like. I'll update more once I get some dedicated listening time.
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Amps that can drive the HiFiMan HE-6 planar headphones
Very interesting indeed. It sounds like it may be down my alley. Cost is excellent too. Not that I need another amp.
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Rossliew
Headphoneus Supremus
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Hmm...wonder if a pair of Vidars as mono blocks powering the HE-6 would make it sing, sing, sing?!
I think you have something there. Two Vidars would make a very compelling solution for the HE-6.Hmm...wonder if a pair of Vidars as mono blocks powering the HE-6 would make it sing, sing, sing?!
Jozurr
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One is more than sufficient. Two will have zero play on the volume knob.
LarsHP
Headphoneus Supremus
Or something like loud, too loud or waaay too loud?One is more than sufficient. Two will have zero play on the volume knob.
If you use the right preamp with an excellent volume control you can fine tune the volume. I use a Burson Conductor V2+ with the my power amps and have a lot of play in volume.One is more than sufficient. Two will have zero play on the volume knob.
johnzz4
500+ Head-Fier
Hansotek.. I know this is old, but I just want to back you up that this doesn’t sound right at all. I do run a Shunyata power cable with the Milo and the PS Audio P3 regen, and I also opted for the Vishay resistor and Khozmo attenuator. I’m wondering if some clean power and the options make the difference. In my setup with the Yggy and the LCD4, the Milo is extremely clean, decisive and anything but tubey. I have the Agd Master 9 As well which sounds warm in comparison. I would say resolving power is one of the pluses for the Milo. Interesting how varied the perspectives on the Milo are - very curious what the reason is.That makes zero sense.
Jozurr
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If you use the right preamp with an excellent volume control you can fine tune the volume. I use a Burson Conductor V2+ with the my power amps and have a lot of play in volume.
Two Vidars just simply have too much power too boot. You can fine tune volume with a right preamp but there still isnt going to be enough play on the volume knob. Little changes on the knob result in huge volume changes. what's the point of having 2 vidars when one is more than enough?
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How do you do balanced on a Vidar ?
KewlMunky
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How do you do balanced on a Vidar ?
Vidar is balanced only if you use it as a monoblock.
musicbuff
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Bought the T+A 8 DSD DAC which has a single end HP jack but the HE-6 doesn't sound that good connected that way, even when music is upscaled to DSD playback. I've been running my HP through the 2nd set of speaker taps on my Primare A32 amp with WyWires Red XLR HP cable. It sounds very good, but I'm wondering if the connection I'm using from the speaker taps to the WyWire cable is bottle-necking the HE-6's sound quality.
I've considered asking Alex at WyWires if he could make me a connector using his RED cable for continuity of quality. I know if I had a regular HP amp I could directly connect the XLR cable, but using amp speaker taps I need to use an extension.
I've considered asking Alex at WyWires if he could make me a connector using his RED cable for continuity of quality. I know if I had a regular HP amp I could directly connect the XLR cable, but using amp speaker taps I need to use an extension.
Regarding Vidar Monos
Lets say you need around 3watts at 50ohms to listen at comfortably loud levels. Vidar monos put out roughly 70watts at 50ohm.
if you have a 100step volume control and each step gives you 0.7watts, using only only 15% of the volume knob(10watts, max power of a Ragnarok) you are far beyond the levels you want to be in.
If you are planning on using Vidar monos for a HE-6 you are 300 bucks away from a Ragnarok, and that's for just the vidars. if you are going for a Freya as well for preamping you end up exceeding the price of a Ragnarok for a product combo that does the job worse.
At that price range I would probably end up getting the Ragnarok. You can even get a Gungnir MB + Mjolnir 2 for 1 dollar more.
Lets say you need around 3watts at 50ohms to listen at comfortably loud levels. Vidar monos put out roughly 70watts at 50ohm.
if you have a 100step volume control and each step gives you 0.7watts, using only only 15% of the volume knob(10watts, max power of a Ragnarok) you are far beyond the levels you want to be in.
If you are planning on using Vidar monos for a HE-6 you are 300 bucks away from a Ragnarok, and that's for just the vidars. if you are going for a Freya as well for preamping you end up exceeding the price of a Ragnarok for a product combo that does the job worse.
At that price range I would probably end up getting the Ragnarok. You can even get a Gungnir MB + Mjolnir 2 for 1 dollar more.
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@ Trerit - good point - well made
leftside
Headphoneus Supremus
The Glenn 300B drives the HE-6 well. This amp is 8 watts at 32 ohms. These HE-6's arrived today and I like them a lot.
Just for comparison, my preamp needs to be set to 40 to make the LCD-3's sound "loud". For the HE-6 it needs to be turned up to 70 to get a similar loudness (out of 100).
Just for comparison, my preamp needs to be set to 40 to make the LCD-3's sound "loud". For the HE-6 it needs to be turned up to 70 to get a similar loudness (out of 100).
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