ALO Audio Studio Six Reviews and Impressions Thread
Jun 2, 2020 at 4:59 AM Post #1,036 of 1,380
Very nice! My LCD-X's also sound great with the S6.

LCD-X is very good on the Studio Six. Here I have LCD-X, LCD-3f, ZMF Verite and HiFiman Arya plug into the S6.

IMG_0572.jpg
 
Jun 23, 2020 at 5:36 PM Post #1,037 of 1,380
I unpacked the Studio Six from storage and have it hooked up to my Simaudio Moon 430HAD as the DAC. Running Qobuz via my MacMini. AudioQuest Diamond USB and Audio Quest Water L/R RCA's from the Moon to the S6. Toxic Cables Silver Poison's to my venerable HD800's. SET's and HD800's are sublime. Tube compliment includes a NOS JAN Sylvania 6SN7, a pair of JJ 6V6's, a pair of US Made OB2's (Tom you recognize these?) and a USAF-596 for rectification. I do have a pair of JAN Phillips 6V6GT's to swap in. I also a a few Rectifier's to try and several 6SN7's so maybe some tube swapping ahead of me. However. Even with this particular tube selection the amp is, as remembered, amazing! This one will never get sold. Thanks again to Tom for a great build and Ken Ball for the success of their efforts.
Hi Longbowbbs,
Does USAF-596 tube require a special adapter?
How does it sound vs other 5AR4 brands like Mullard, Gold Lion Genelax, and PrimaLuna?
I know 596 is expensive, but I want to know if it's ok to upgrade or not.

Thank you.
 
Jun 23, 2020 at 5:44 PM Post #1,038 of 1,380
The USAF-596 does require an adapter. 2359Glenn made them for me. I have not communicated with him for a long time.(6 years or more) I do not know if he is still working on electronics these days.

Rectifiers are a bit less impactful on sonic quality. I was using a few others but ultimately, I liked what I heard from the 596 and it is a cool looking tube too so That is what I am using for now.

Good luck.

Eric
 
Aug 4, 2020 at 9:01 PM Post #1,039 of 1,380
MeoMap,

I am sorry to hear of your Studio-Six difficulties.

From your description, It sounds almost for certain that your 5AR4 rectifier tube has failed (possibly related to the number of hours the tube has been in service) and short-circuited, thereby causing one or both of your fuses to blow.

My suggestion is to immediately pull and discard your 5AR4 rectifier tube and replace it with a new one. In tandem, replace *both* of your fuses with a pair of new ones. Even if one fuse did not blow, it is likely stressed by the excessive current drawn by the 5AR4 rectifier failure, and so is out of specification. Always replace *both* fuses when *either* blows.

On fuses: please use replacement fuses *only* of the same physical size and electrical rating as factory specified: Always use 'slow-blow' type fuses.

If your unit is wired to operate with 100 to 120 VAC mains power, then use 1.25 Amp 'Slow Blow' fuse.

If your unit is wired to operate with 200 to 240 VAC mains power, then use 0.625 Amp 'Slow Blow' fuse.

Please do not hesitate to P.M. me here in head-fi if you need further assistance.

Good Luck!
Hi TomSix,

I have a question again.
My unit was turned off about a week to save energy.
I powered back on and about roughly 30 sec I noticed the ORANGE LED stopped lighting.
Checked fuses and noticed both are bad.
Replaced a new Rectifier tube.
Replaced two new 1.25 A, 250 V fuses but the LED is not on and tubes did not light up.
New fuses are the same spec as previous but do not have clear glass that you can see the filament inside. These new fuses are like paper wrapped just got it from Fry's. I measured Ohm ok at 0.2 Ohm each fuse. I took out the rest of tubes and lightly shake them to see if any broken filament inside but no, only the first Rectifier tube has broken filament inside.
Installed them back, Installed fuses, power on and still not on.

What might be the problem this time?
The last time it happened with the same symptom even with new, same, clear glass fuses installed and no power at that time. Sent to ALO and they could not find anything wrong...

Watched YouTube with reference to Currywong channel, and noticed his unit was turned off most of the time and recently did a new video with his friends listening to high end hp for inputs.
Never see him or anybody in this thread complaining about this kind of symptom....
FYI, other units with tubes plugged into the AQ Nigra3000 Power Distribution are fine after power it up....

Appreciate it if you could give any insight to my unit. Sounds like my unit does not like to be off?

Thank you,
 
Aug 5, 2020 at 12:05 AM Post #1,040 of 1,380
Hello Meomap,

I am sorry to hear of the difficulties with your Studio-Six.

I have a few questions for you, to help clarify what might be happening with your unit.

(1) I understand the orange pilot lamp (which is a neon lamp) is not lighting. But does the amplifier operate normally otherwise? If so, then the replaceable neon lamp itself may be bad ( but this would be an unusual/ rare failure)

(2) If in fact the unit is fully inoperative: do the tube filaments glow and/or the VR gas regulator tubes glow?

(3) Did you check the original removed fuses with a mulitmeter to see if they are blown? If you measure an infinite resistance or a very high resistance then the fuses are blown.

If the fuses are blown, then it is likely that one of the tubes in the unit has failed. The 5AR4 rectifier, or one of the the 6V6 output tubes are the ones most likely to fail. The 6SN7 may have failed but this is less likely, and the two gas regulator tubes only rarely fail.

It is quite rare for a Studio-Six to develop a fault or blow fuses for any reason other than occasional tube failures.

If the Studio-Six still blows fuses with tubes installed that are known to be good, or if the unit does not blow fuses but also does not operate, then the unit should be professionally diagnosed and serviced.

Please, do clarify the nature of your difficulties as mentioned above.

Do not hesitate to contact Ken Ball at ALO should you need any replacement tubes, or if you should need to ship the unit to ALO for diagnosis and repair. I have every confidence ALO will be able to assist you.
 
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Aug 6, 2020 at 11:09 PM Post #1,041 of 1,380
Hello Meomap,

I am sorry to hear of the difficulties with your Studio-Six.

I have a few questions for you, to help clarify what might be happening with your unit.

(1) I understand the orange pilot lamp (which is a neon lamp) is not lighting. But does the amplifier operate normally otherwise? If so, then the replaceable neon lamp itself may be bad ( but this would be an unusual/ rare failure)

(2) If in fact the unit is fully inoperative: do the tube filaments glow and/or the VR gas regulator tubes glow?

(3) Did you check the original removed fuses with a mulitmeter to see if they are blown? If you measure an infinite resistance or a very high resistance then the fuses are blown.

If the fuses are blown, then it is likely that one of the tubes in the unit has failed. The 5AR4 rectifier, or one of the the 6V6 output tubes are the ones most likely to fail. The 6SN7 may have failed but this is less likely, and the two gas regulator tubes only rarely fail.

It is quite rare for a Studio-Six to develop a fault or blow fuses for any reason other than occasional tube failures.

If the Studio-Six still blows fuses with tubes installed that are known to be good, or if the unit does not blow fuses but also does not operate, then the unit should be professionally diagnosed and serviced.

Please, do clarify the nature of your difficulties as mentioned above.

Do not hesitate to contact Ken Ball at ALO should you need any replacement tubes, or if you should need to ship the unit to ALO for diagnosis and repair. I have every confidence ALO will be able to assist you.
Hi TomSix,
Thank you for details respond.

Here are the details I observed before my unit is back to normal operation...

FRY'S fuses...1.25A, 250V but paper wrapped only, not clear glass like normal... Unit did not lit.

Installed 1A, 250V glass fuses use from another tube amp & dac.That night I tested power on and saw only 3 tubes to the left are lit.
OB2 tubes, rectifier , and orange LED did not lit.

Today, I found some 1.25A, 250V glass fuses, installed them, power on then all tubes lit up along with orange lamp on.
Power off/on couple times and see no problem with rectifier tube.
At this time. I think my unit is back to normal....

My question is why is it so much differences between 1A vs 1.25 A fuses in order to work properly?
 
Aug 13, 2020 at 6:08 PM Post #1,042 of 1,380
Hi TomSix,
Thank you for details respond.

Here are the details I observed before my unit is back to normal operation...

FRY'S fuses...1.25A, 250V but paper wrapped only, not clear glass like normal... Unit did not lit.

Installed 1A, 250V glass fuses use from another tube amp & dac.That night I tested power on and saw only 3 tubes to the left are lit.
OB2 tubes, rectifier , and orange LED did not lit.

Today, I found some 1.25A, 250V glass fuses, installed them, power on then all tubes lit up along with orange lamp on.
Power off/on couple times and see no problem with rectifier tube.
At this time. I think my unit is back to normal....

My question is why is it so much differences between 1A vs 1.25 A fuses in order to work properly?

Hello Meomap,

The described behavior of your amp does not seem to necessarily be related to your fuses. As long as you stay with the ALO recommended type and specification of fuse for the ST-6, then you should not have any problems there.

It is *possible* you may yet have an *intermittent* failure happening with either one of the tubes in your ST-6, or perhaps elsewhere in the amplifier circuit.

As mentioned previously, failures of anything other than occasional vacuum tube failures are very rare with the ST-6.

If a failure occurs again, please pay particular attention to see if one of your tubes is faulty, and if either or both of your fuses in the unit have blown.

Whatever the case, under all circumstances do not deviate from using fuses of the type and ratings recommended by ALO for use in the ST-6 . This very important for safety and equipment protection reasons.

If you continue to have difficulty, and vacuum tube failure is not found to be at fault, then I suggest you talk to ALO about arranging for factory diagnosis and repair.

Hopefully we can smoothly get you through this difficulty you have been experiencing with your Studio-Six.

I regret your inconvenience

--Thomas
 
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Aug 17, 2020 at 7:00 PM Post #1,044 of 1,380
anybody have any experience changing the transformer? or asking alo audio changing it? I have a 220v ss6 and thinking about moving to 110v area.

Yes, the Studio-Six can be factory-modified for 110V mains operation. The Studio-Six utilizes a multi-tap power supply transformer which can be wired for several AC mains voltages from 100V to 240V.

Mains voltage is set at the factory by making the appropriate jumper wire connections on an internal AC input selector PCB.

Shipping your unit to/from ALO for a mains input voltage change could be expensive. I'm not sure what ALO would charge presently for such modification work, but imagine it would be quite reasonable. However, the shipping to/from Hong Kong should be the majority of the expense.

Unfortunately, it would be dangerous to attempt user-modification of the Studio-Six input voltage setting, and so that is strongly advised against.

A possible solution which would likely be easier and more affordable:

I'd suggest contacting a local high-end audio shop that is familiar with vintage vacuum-tube audio gear, and see if they offer a new, modern 110V input to 220V output mains 'isolation transformer'. Be sure to obtain a quality isolation transformer with proper grounded input and output connections.

With such an isolation transformer placed between a 110VAC mains outlet and your 220VAC wired Studio-Six, then no internal wiring changes or fuse-rating changes to your Studio-Six would be necessary.

I hope this is helpful
 
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Oct 24, 2020 at 10:40 AM Post #1,049 of 1,380
And there you have it! Crisis solved. Buy both!
 

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