[rhythmdevils]

You're probably right, but if you used any of those materials they would sound different from stock.  My point was just that the foam is for mechanical, not acoustic reasons.  At least that is the going theory AFAIK.  I have noticed even open cell foam having acoustic effects in orthos, but dynamics don't seem as effected by cup resonance.  It would be cool to play with the damping in a sextett and see what happens. 

 

[RexAeterna]

yea. reason i was thinking kinda how they are design with the passive membranes the felt might make little difference to none in a way. only thing i ever done with my sextett was make a protective cloth out of thin speaker protection covers cause it helped protect from outside particles getting to the driver and the passive membranes. it also helps if someone had some sweating or major face oil issues.

 

[kernow]

No reply still, I knew he took a while but bleh, I've been searching all day for similar 1/4" accoustic/reticulated foam, as I figured I can just make my own rings up, it's all so expensive though. If it was a couple of pounds I wouldn't mind. Especially as people are saying it makes little sonic difference without. If only I could find some locally in a material shop or around the house. I'll have to go into town tomorrow and take a look - and see if I can find any suitable elastic suppliment while I'm at it.

 

[rhythmdevils]

people often recommend "fish foam" or "filter foam". 

 

[kernow]

Ah, saying that I check my email and get a reply from Frank and he directs me to this UK site called www.soundtech.co.uk - so I have emailed them instead. This might make it cheaper on shipping I guess.
 
Even the filter foam is expensive for what it is, I only need a little bit. I'll keep looking though cheers.

 

[RexAeterna]

are you trying to contact AKG? is Frank the main guy or something? i contacted AKG hotline many times for information requesting FR of the Sextetts and tried to get info on my 240DF's as well. all i got from them was a 8 page document showing how the sextetts were designed and eq'ed. i couldn't get anything else and they kept directing me to their website and recommend the 702 instead......i don't want the 702 lol.

 

[kernow]

I've done a lot of reading of threads on these forums for the past few days, and for spares in the US I read you contact:
 
frank[dot]rodriguez[at]harman.com
 
And sure enough he exists, you then just get the item numbers from the AKG K240 exploded schematic/manual (which is easily findable online), and then quote the parts you want to him. It seems a lot of the people here who have refurbed their sextetts with various parts - however a lot are no longer available.
 
From reading I gathered he has metal badges for the K240 (in gold so not sextett ones), foam damping rings, felt rings for the vents and pads also I think, as well as new elastics.
 
Because I was in the UK, he didn't offer any of these and just referred me to the UK site. I've heard people have had mixed results with him anyway, being slow or whatever, but he always comes through in the end.
 
 
 
And now, for a possibly stupid wiring question while I wait for a response from the UK place he referred me to.
 
From reading I've been told the driver has a negative '-' mark where the negative wire input is, and the other is obviously the positive, if you look at the diagram though it says that the wiring of the 4 core input wire is as follows.
 
Red = Right +
White = Right -
Yellow = Left +
Blue = Left -
 
Now it doesn't make sense to me, that you would wire white from the 4 core wire to red directly on the driver, but if you look at the picture of the driver I've just taken, you can see a - mark next to the red wire, and I haven't resoldered these parts, they've been taken apart and made sure the wires haven't fallen off!
 

 
So if someone could draw up a quick diagram or put me in the right direction regarding where the wiring straight from the jack plug goes, to each pole on the driver and through the headband, I would be very grateful.
 
 
Sorry for all the questions by the way, I just want to make sure I get these wired up correctly and in phase so I don't have to open them again once they are finally done, Thanks for any replies. It was just confusing me a little when I saw white as negative on the input lead, and then red being negative actually connected to the driver??
 
 
I'm going to resolder these with some similar wire anyway as they feel like they are going to drop off any minute, I have 4% silver solder already etc.

 

[kernow]

ah **** me, wired em up to test and they are completely dead, I give up on it now, they're sadly in the bin. I guess I'll be looking for replacements but new ones.
 
lame. My bad soldering is to blame. I must have damaged one of the drivers wiring them back up or something.
 
Thanks for the assistance guys, it was fun while it lasted. I guess I'll go look for some modern headphones instead *sniff*

 

[Zombie_X]

Are you sure the driver is dead? I can always take a look at them if you are willing to send them to me.
 
Quote:

ah **** me, wired em up to test and they are completely dead, I give up on it now, they're sadly in the bin. I guess I'll be looking for replacements but new ones.
 
lame. My bad soldering is to blame. I must have damaged one of the drivers wiring them back up or something.
 
Thanks for the assistance guys, it was fun while it lasted. I guess I'll go look for some modern headphones instead *sniff*

 

 

[RexAeterna]

ah **** me, wired em up to test and they are completely dead, I give up on it now, they're sadly in the bin. I guess I'll be looking for replacements but new ones.
 
lame. My bad soldering is to blame. I must have damaged one of the drivers wiring them back up or something.
 
Thanks for the assistance guys, it was fun while it lasted. I guess I'll go look for some modern headphones instead *sniff*

you should of used a AA or AAA battery first to test the drivers if they work. a AA or AAA is only 1.5v so it won't hurt them and it's a great way to test polarity of the terminals as well. just use piece of copper wire and if you don't have any speaker wire you can strip any plug like pair of of RCA jacks or power cord cause copper is copper and use one on positive end of the battery and other copper wire at negative end and with other end of the cable ends place carefully on the terminals and see if it'll make a sound. if the driver pushes out then you have the polarity correct. if the driver cone/dome sucks in then you have it done out of phase. look up battery trick or testing speaker with a battery if you don't get what i said cause it's hard explaining over the internet. i use this trick and fixed many speakers that were thought dead but just needed wiring at the terminals redone.


also did you melt any part of the terminals? cause the driver's copper wire ends are soldered to the terminals which are just basically tin as well which i hated when i was working on my other sextett cause you can accidentally loosen the wire from the terminals easily if not careful.

 

[Armaegis]

Quote:

Are you sure the driver is dead? I can always take a look at them if you are willing to send them to me. 
 

I think he's in Europe... that might be kinda pricey to ship back and forth.
 

 

[kernow]

It's ok guys, I made a bit of a pigs ear with the soldering (not my strong point), and I honestly would have salvaged/put the parts on here but nothing on them was great condition as such, hence my reluctance to spend much money on them. And my replacement original pads arrive for them today, great! *facepalm*
 
I've just started looking at replacements sadly, around the £100 range and hopefully easier to drive, say without an amp and just a laptop, thing is like any stereo hardware theres tons of choices! my word, the 701's are lovely but a little too much out of my price range sadly.
 
Will have to do a lot of reading here and find out some more information I guess.

 

[RexAeterna]

hey just want to double check here and wondering if the diagram is correct for the sextetts cabling? gonna try tomorrow and solder a 4-pin XLR plug and i already have the diagram for that and gonna make an adapter cable to use it off my speaker outputs and see how it handles speaker outputs.

this is the 4-pin XLR diagram i have:

i know it says mic and earpiece but it should work with any 4-core cabling scheme application i assume. they're just examples.

question i want to know if it matters if i make 1 and 2 pin left or right? as long as i get my adapter cable wired same way and match i should be fine right? i'm gonna make a 4-pin to speaker wire cable as well. i just want to double check and make i'm doing it correctly first.

 

[RexAeterna]

nevermind. i found the k1000 manual and it has the 4-pin terminal wiring so i can make my sextetts usable for speaker outputs.

 

[rhythmdevils]

Nice!  They love power IME.