[miter53]

Any possibility of seeing the BOM for this?

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Any possibility of seeing the BOM for this?

BOM, instructions, etc. will come out together when all the materials are done.

 

[goldwerger]

Congrats. You scored a great amp!

I'm realizing this with every minute that passes..

 

[martelanc24]

Hi @L0rdGwyn, I have been following the thread since day 1 after seeing the review from Monsterzero. I am really considering building this amp in the future if chasis availability will not be a major problem here in Europe.

I would like to ask a question about daily runtime. So excluding tubes, would it be any problem running the amp continuously 8-10 hours per day (maybe 4 days per week), or would you recommend limiting ON time to a certain number of continuous hours? Room temperature would be arround 20°C (68F) in the colder months and 25°C (77F) in the hotter months.

This is how I have been using my DIY tube amplifier for the past year, without a single issue. (The amp is single ended EL84 + 12AT7 with solid state rectification, components soldered to a PCB, not point to point.) Degradation might be faster, but I like to use the equipment I build, that is why I am asking. Thank you.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Hi @L0rdGwyn, I have been following the thread since day 1 after seeing the review from Monsterzero. I am really considering building this amp in the future if chasis availability will not be a major problem here in Europe.

I would like to ask a question about daily runtime. So excluding tubes, would it be any problem running the amp continuously 8-10 hours per day (maybe 4 days per week), or would you recommend limiting ON time to a certain number of continuous hours? Room temperature would be arround 20°C (68F) in the colder months and 25°C (77F) in the hotter months.

This is how I have been using my DIY tube amplifier for the past year, without a single issue. (The amp is single ended EL84 + 12AT7 with solid state rectification, components soldered to a PCB, not point to point.) Degradation might be faster, but I like to use the equipment I build, that is why I am asking. Thank you.

Hi there - no issue running the amp for a long period of time other than the lifetime of the tubes. Some power tubes (e.g., 6V6) and some rectifiers (e.g. 5Y3) will be run closer to their maximum ratings in this amp, which is fine, but they may wear out faster if run for prolonged periods of time, so I'd probably recommend using tubes that are not biased very hot for long term use, for example EL34 outputs and GZ34 or 5R4 rectifier. All interior components are properly derated.

 

[martelanc24]

Hi there - no issue running the amp for a long period of time other than the lifetime of the tubes. Some power tubes (e.g., 6V6) and some rectifiers (e.g. 5Y3) will be run closer to their maximum ratings in this amp, which is fine, but they may wear out faster if run for prolonged periods of time, so I'd probably recommend using tubes that are not biased very hot for long term use, for example EL34 outputs and GZ34 or 5R4 rectifier. All interior components are properly derated.

Thank you for the information and explanation. It will help a lot with chosing tubes for my type of use. If I end up building the amp of course.

 

[Metaldog99z]

I'm planning to build this, and I have ordered the Lundahl iron - lead time is about 6 weeks (end of April). I am looking to get the tubes I will need for the build.

I already have a pair of EL37s that I will use - any thoughts on ECC35, 5691 or other compatible 6SL7 input tubes? I see RCAs and Mullards in the pics, and would like anyone with knowledge of these to provide thoughts.

Thanks!

 

[JazzVinyl]

I'm planning to build this, and I have ordered the Lundahl iron - lead time is about 6 weeks (end of April). I am looking to get the tubes I will need for the build.

I already have a pair of EL37s that I will use - any thoughts on ECC35, 5691 or other compatible 6SL7 input tubes? I see RCAs and Mullards in the pics, and would like anyone with knowledge of these to provide thoughts.

Thanks!

I use an amp designed around 6/12SL7 as driver. I think you will find that
6SL7 differs from 6SN7 in that the SL7's sound more alike than different.

Tube brand "house sound" is still apparent but you won't get vast sonic changes
when changing driver tubes when the amp is designed to use SL7.

I love my $5 RCA clear tops from the mid 1950's. Have that "just right"
response throughout the entire FR.

Most SL7's have round plates. There are a few flat plate SL7's. To me, they
have greater clarity in the mids/highs but are not as thick on the bottom as their
round plate cousins.

You might also find the currently produced Russian 6SL7 round plates (the "China" branded ones appear to be these, rebranded) are pretty good too. They are the opposite of the flat plates...they are deep, thick and somewhat moody. There is a Melz equiv that looks a lot like the Russion tube in construction but appears to have a different kind of metal for its round plates. It is a good preformer too.

There is a current production 6SL7 "Tung Sol Brown Base Flat Plate" that is made in Russia, so Tung Sol in name only, but after a few hours of burn in, I think you would like these, too. Well worth their cost.

The good thing about SL7 is that you won't need buckets of cash for great sounding drivers.

I am excited for your build and I can hardly wait to hear your opinion of the Aegis!

 

[Tom-s]

I am really considering building this amp in the future if chasis availability will not be a major problem here in Europe.

I've been in touch with Dave from Landfall systems. And he's a very friendly guy to work with and super responsive.
Here's a link to their website to get some impressions: https://www.landfallsystems.com/
First have a look at the website to find a color/finish that fits your setup. Having an anodized chassis was about 70$ extra over powdercoat colors.
Shipping to Europe was 65$ for me.
His packaging is great and all panels got to me without any scratches in no time.
Pictures below for inspiration with packaging and sides showing. The color is casper blue powdercoat. Inspired by all great Landfall chassis builds from @carlman14: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/carls-diy-adventures.957646/page-2#post-16548412


Edit: Further more I need to add that apart from the looks; the quality of the finish has been very durable in my opinion.

 

[ScornDefeat]

I've been in touch with Dave from Landfall systems. And he's a very friendly guy to work with and super responsive.
Here's a link to their website to get some impressions: https://www.landfallsystems.com/

Their website seems to be in-progess with little info; do you know if they offer engraving on the chassis?

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Their website seems to be in-progess with little info; do you know if they offer engraving on the chassis?

Yes they do. Dave has made several chassis for me, he is fantastic, ask him for some photos and he will show examples. After my doing some at home powder coating, he got inspired and spent some cash on a much better powder coating setup making mine obsolete lol now he coats everything too, a one stop shop.

 

[bcowen]

I've been in touch with Dave from Landfall systems. And he's a very friendly guy to work with and super responsive.
Here's a link to their website to get some impressions: https://www.landfallsystems.com/
First have a look at the website to find a color/finish that fits your setup. Having an anodized chassis was about 70$ extra over powdercoat colors.
Shipping to Europe was 65$ for me.
His packaging is great and all panels got to me without any scratches in no time.
Pictures below for inspiration with packaging and sides showing. The color is casper blue powdercoat. Inspired by all great Landfall chassis builds from @carlman14: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/carls-diy-adventures.957646/page-2#post-16548412


Edit: Further more I need to add that apart from the looks; the quality of the finish has been very durable in my opinion.

Nice! I really like that color.

 

[caryking]

Output Z on the low setting with EL34 is 5ohm, on high Z setting 17ohms last time I measured. I would recommend low setting for 16-120ohm, high for 120ohm and up.

It should be able to run most any headphone well. The most demanding headphone I've tried with this amp is the Susvara. I thought it sounded great but I'm not a Susvara amplification connoisseur. We should have another opinion on that pairing soon.

I know we discussed impedances; however, I’m still struggling understanding this…

what output transformer are you using?
what are the taps on them?

then, what is the understanding on impedance matching? Is it all about having enough wattage, for a given headphone impedance? Also, is it about the the damping needed for the headphones? How do you know what the damping factor is?

 

[funch]

Page 7, post 98 for a pic of all tranny's.

 

[caryking]

Page 7, post 98 for a pic of all tranny's.

Thanks