Advice about wire for cabling an headphone
May 13, 2015 at 12:54 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 8

ginetto61

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Hi !
i would like to rewire a Takstar hi2050. After seeing the original ones i think that ANY wire around would be better. 
However ... i was thinking to use some cat5 wires directly soldered to the drivers (the difficult part)
Any other suggestion ?
Thanks a lot.
gino 
 
May 13, 2015 at 1:36 PM Post #2 of 8

liquidzoo

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Solid core cat5 would probably be too stiff for your liking.  Stranded might work, but there are better choices out there.
 
Mogami 2799 is cheap at $0.62/ft (if you're in the US) and has the 4 cores you need.  Pair that with some #95 or #275 paracord (if you want to hide the fact that the 4 wires are different colors) and you have something that's easy to work with and nicely flexible.
 
May 13, 2015 at 2:23 PM Post #3 of 8

ginetto61

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Originally Posted by liquidzoo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Solid core cat5 would probably be too stiff for your liking. 

 
Hi and thanks a lot for the kind and valuable reply.  I was thinking just that ... too stiff.
But i was thinking to tame a little the highs with solid core copper ... 
redface.gif
    Bad idea indeed. 
Stranded might work, but there are better choices out there.
Mogami 2799 is cheap at $0.62/ft (if you're in the US) and has the 4 cores you need.  Pair that with some #95 or #275 paracord (if you want to hide the fact that the 4 wires are different colors) and you have something that's easy to work with and nicely flexible.

 
I see that its a 26awg mic cable.  Do you think that is the optimal gauge all considered ? 
I would prefer a standard 2 wire mic cable to avoid to mess up with wires.  
In this way i can wire the two drivers identically. One wire the + the other wire the - .
The original are very very poor.
I would like to take the opportunity to ask some advice for the soldering on the two drivers.  I am afraid to burn them with the heat.
Thanks a lot again,  gino   
 
May 13, 2015 at 2:33 PM Post #4 of 8

liquidzoo

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I prefer the quad cable to 2 conductor cable, and 26AWG is more flexible than 24AWG, which makes for a nicer cable (the plastic coating on the wire has a lot to do with this too).  You'll need 4 wires anyway (L, R, plus Ground for each driver) so it's just easier to get it all in one package.
 
For soldering to your drivers, the only advice I have is be careful.
 
Often you will have a voice coil wire going from the solder pad to the voice coil that is thinner than a hair and very, very easy to break (I've done it) and depending on how it's broken can be very hard to repair (again, I've repaired it but I was lucky).
 
Make sure you know which side is which and where the wires are supposed to go before you start.  Apply heat to the solder pad and gently pull on the wire.  As soon as the wire moves, take the heat off.
 
Not trying to scare you, just want to make sure you're careful.
 
May 13, 2015 at 3:02 PM Post #5 of 8

ginetto61

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Originally Posted by liquidzoo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
I prefer the quad cable to 2 conductor cable, and 26AWG is more flexible than 24AWG, which makes for a nicer cable (the plastic coating on the wire has a lot to do with this too).  
You'll need 4 wires anyway (L, R, plus Ground for each driver) so it's just easier to get it all in one package.

Thanks again.  Actually i see much more quad cables around.  Much more.
About the wiring i guess the drivers have 2 contacts, plus and minus and then i have to wire together the two minus and ground them at the plug. Am i right ? 
 
For soldering to your drivers, the only advice I have is be careful.
Often you will have a voice coil wire going from the solder pad to the voice coil that is thinner than a hair and very, very easy to break (I've done it) and depending on how it's broken can be very hard to repair (again, I've repaired it but I was lucky).
Make sure you know which side is which and where the wires are supposed to go before you start.  Apply heat to the solder pad and gently pull on the wire.  
As soon as the wire moves, take the heat off.
Not trying to scare you, just want to make sure you're careful.

 
It sounds quite challenging indeed. I hope not to destroy anything.
Thanks a lot again.  Kind regards,  gino 
 
May 13, 2015 at 3:09 PM Post #6 of 8

liquidzoo

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Essentially, yes that is correct.
 
The 2 ground wires will go to the sleeve connection on the plug.  Twisted/soldered together.
 
Left will go to the Tip, Right will go to Ring.
 
Easier to see visually sometimes:
 

 
May 13, 2015 at 3:47 PM Post #7 of 8

ginetto61

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  Essentially, yes that is correct.
The 2 ground wires will go to the sleeve connection on the plug.  Twisted/soldered together.
Left will go to the Tip, Right will go to Ring.
Easier to see visually sometimes:
 

 
Hi and thanks a lot again ... this is exactly what i was looking for.   The ground is the sleeve ... good !  
Let's say that the critical part remains the soldering ... i will be careful.
Thanks again,  gino 
 
May 14, 2015 at 4:35 AM Post #8 of 8

ginetto61

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Originally Posted by liquidzoo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
...  there are better choices out there.  Mogami 2799 is cheap at $0.62/ft (if you're in the US) and has the 4 cores you need....
 

 
Hi !  unfortunately i live in EU.
I love Mogami cable very much indeed. 
Anyway i found and bought this one from Canare ... 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221345140516?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
 

 
I have a past experience with Canare mic cables and it is very positive 
It was this one here ... used for cable extension for a Grado sr200 ... 
 

 
the construction of the screen and the quality of copper look fantastic
with Neutrik connectors on both side (great plugs indeed) !
 
Unfortunately the soldering is such a delicate process.  What a shame that they have not used a decent wiring
Because my intention was not to mess with the internals, but to keep a short stump and then to solder a xlr to that.
I have already  a OTS cable (for mics)  as extender ... 
 

 
Thanks a lot again
Regards,  gino  
 

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