1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.

    Dismiss Notice

6SN7 Tube Addicts

415 416 417 418 419 420 421 422 423 424
426 427 428 429 430
  1. MasonStorm
    Greetings all,

    Thank you for all of your informative posts. I'm building a modest collection of 6SN7 and related tubes as drivers in my setup, and hope to be able to contribute to this forum soon.

    Recently, I've been looking into getting a better Renter's Insurance policy, one that will cover all of the expensive audio gear, and ran into the fact that old-stock vacuum tubes fall into a different category, such as "collectibles" or "antiques" (as compared to current-production tubes, which could simply be repurchased at market value in the event of a loss). State Farm wants me to have an appraiser declare a value for all of my old-stock tubes, but I've never heard of an appraiser doing such a thing with vacuum tubes. I had thought that my receipts for whatever I paid for them (AudiogoN, Brent Jessee, eBay etc.) would have to serve, but State Farm may not accept that. Does anyone have any advice/experience/input on insuring old tubes (and/or expensive electronics as a whole)? Sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong thread, but of all the vacuum tube threads from all of the online organizations that I frequent, this is the foremost one!
    llamaluv and Monsterzero like this.
  2. L0rdGwyn
    Nabbed a NOS Fivre 6SN7GT brown base black plates from eBay, got it for a song, $30 with shipping! This is a nice tube. Listening in the Crackatwoa, Fivre 6SN7GT in, Tung Sol 7802 out, Telefunken 6005 shunt regulator tubes.

    cddc likes this.
  3. Monsterzero
    Off topic question:

    Have you ever compared the sonic differences of the 7802s to the TS 6080s?
  4. cddc
    Very nice shining chrome plate, buddy!

    Just wondering what paint you used (I don't remember seeing any chrome paint when I was buying Rust-Oleum for my Crack)? Do you need to sand the painting to make it mirror-like?

    Also, a little off-topic: what's the improvement did you experience from Crack w/ speedball to Crackatwoa? Is it huge or subtle?
    L0rdGwyn likes this.
  5. L0rdGwyn
    Hi my friend - I wish I could say there was a paint that would give you that finish, but unfortunately I don't think there is. I sanded and polished the aluminum plate that comes with the kit to a mirror finish, and let me tell you, it was no easy task. If I were to do it again, I would probably look into getting the top plate chromed at a shop, other builders have done so.

    As far as the difference between the Crack + SB and the Crackatwoa, what I recall is hearing better bass definition, wider soundstage and resolution from the Crackatwoa. I would hesitate to say the difference is "massive" since I have not AB'd the two amps (I sold the BHC+SB before I had the Crackatwoa completed to do a direct comparison), but I would also not call it subtle, somewhere in between.
    cddc likes this.
  6. cddc
    Wow....that's a great idea to sand down the aluminum plate to a mirror finish. I thought you had used some chrome paint, because I saw some BHC fellow here used some chrome paint and sanded it down multiple times using different grades of sandpapers some years ago. The Crack thread is so long that I can't find the process anymore. Either way I believe it takes great effort to achieve such a shining beautiful finish.

    Thanks a lot for the impression on BHC+SB vs Crackatwoa. It's reasonable to see some improvement with better power supply. Man, how I wish Bottlehead could design a 2A3/300B or even 845 headphone amp kit, which would make a completely different league. But it seems PB is not interested in the idea at all.
  7. L0rdGwyn
    If you wanted to do the work, you could possibly ask them how the Kaiju circuit could be altered to run headphones.
    cddc likes this.
  8. cddc

    Sure, but Kaiju is designed for speakers, it has no headphone jacks, not to mention it could have noises when applied to headphone without changes in design.

    I just don't understand why people use 2A3 or 300B to drive speakers, it seems to me that they cannot provide enough juice to drive large speakers. Personally I'd rather buy some SS amps with huge power reserves for speakers. IMHO 2A3 and 300B are more suitable to drive headphones. Lots of high-end headphone amps use 2A3, 300B, or even 845 - WA5, WA33, ECBA, DNA Stratus, Manley Neo-classic, Viva Egoista 845, just name a few. These 2A3/300B/845 amps are mainly designed for headphones, but can also be used to drive some small bookshelf speakers, not the other way around.
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2019
  9. L0rdGwyn
    I am happy to report....IT WORKS! Really looks NOS, sounds great, slightly microphonic but seems to go away after warm up. Sylvania 6SN7W metal base for basically $2, I will take it :)
    Monsterzero likes this.
  10. whirlwind
    Great find....sometimes that is the way micophonics seem to work....give the tube 30 minutes and it settles in...again...great find :)
    L0rdGwyn likes this.
  11. L0rdGwyn
    Thanks! I have a few other tubes that are the same, microphonic for maybe 5 minutes or so, then you are good to go. I think these 6SN7Ws are prone to it, funny considering how rugged they look.
  12. cddc
    you got luck....auctions are tricky...lol
  13. attmci
    ¥1,100 (~$10 USD)?Japanese dollar?

    Congrats! :)
  14. cddc
    why yens....you bought them from eBay.jp?
  15. MasonStorm
    I received an Amplitrex AT1000 Tube Tester and have been testing as much of my collection as possible, recently turning to the 6SN7's. A recently-acquired pair of Brimars tested good for emissions, but too high for gas: 0.2mA. The Amplitrex manual suggests that anything more than 0.1mA in a small signal tube will likely lead to problems in the application circuit. Are these tubes likely to harm my amp?
415 416 417 418 419 420 421 422 423 424
426 427 428 429 430

Share This Page