Good to hear. I've honestly never done anything in an OBJ format, I have always used STL. The difference might just be the way OBJ files encode geometry. OBJ is more widely used in 3d modeling rather than 3d printing; STL files use a buttload of triangles to make a shape and is pretty much only used for 3d printing.its very visible to me. Ill make a cylinder in Fusion shortly after seeing this.
UPDATE: Made a 20mm Diam cylinder and exported it as an OBJ. Imported it into TC and TC says the length of the cylinder is "19.94mm" but the rest are as they should be. IDK why TC is showing it like that or if my object does not have a 1:1 diameter or length+width. So I went back to the Fusion work and used the measuring tool with "All Decimals" enable to get the measurement of the diameter and it is 20.00mm.
UPDATE 2: The issue does not occur with STL for both cylinder and cone object I made for driver clamp. When they are OBJ the issue occurs.
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3D printed headphones
- Thread starter DeweyCH
- Start date
Just finished up everything (replacing anything round with the fusion360 cylinder, except for the driver membrane protection because that one doesnt matter and too lazy)Good to hear. I've honestly never done anything in an OBJ format, I have always used STL. The difference might just be the way OBJ files encode geometry. OBJ is more widely used in 3d modeling rather than 3d printing; STL files use a buttload of triangles to make a shape and is pretty much only used for 3d printing.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product!Just finished up everything (replacing anything round with the fusion360 cylinder, except for the driver membrane protection because that one doesnt matter and too lazy)
mwildebeast/TKNX (TKNX's is a clone of mwildebeast with slight changes) has his own method of driver clampingLooking forward to seeing the finished product!
What actually holds it in place? Do you glue it down, or is there another part that attaches behind the driver?mwildebeast/TKNX (TKNX's is a clone of mwildebeast with slight changes) has his own method of driver clamping
Dudes just have the driver magnet clamped between that 45 degree bevel (dark shaded part) so pretty much it just grips/holds the entire driver place. This also sounds like PETG is suitable for this but I gotta ask mwildebeast.What actually holds it in place? Do you glue it down, or is there another part that attaches behind the driver?
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Post to my knockoff of a knockoff of a knockoff
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Hahaha, how'd u like the sound?https://www.head-fi.org/threads/indrick-borealis-an-aurorus-borealis-clone-made-in-tinkercad.963426/ Post to my knockoff of a knockoff of a knockoff
I’m finding that a resin printer is better for a lot of headphone parts. Smoother with better detail. Playing around right now with some tough flexible resin for parts that need to bend a bit (like headband parts).
There's a cool DIY 3D-printed headphone over on Reddit today. Based off the Aurorus Borealis and using the same 540 ohm Beryllium drivers I've been tinkering with - @Skaven marine
resins hella more expensive tho than fdm.I’m finding that a resin printer is better for a lot of headphone parts. Smoother with better detail. Playing around right now with some tough flexible resin for parts that need to bend a bit (like headband parts).
@DeweyCH I am very stuck on designing the jack mount/bar for my borealis clones. Can u have a look at it and suggest anything? https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dspgnTCeFTM-indrick-borealis
I'm honestly not entirely sure what I'm looking at. When you say 'jack mount,' do you mean the extruded part that holds the miniXLR jack? I always tend to make my designs kind of like how ZMF or HiFiMAN does it, with the jack going perpendicular through the outside of the cup. Much easier to design.@DeweyCH I am very stuck on designing the jack mount/bar for my borealis clones. Can u have a look at it and suggest anything? https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dspgnTCeFTM-indrick-borealis
The rectangular piece with a cutout-curve. Thats where my 3.5mm jack goes in.I'm honestly not entirely sure what I'm looking at. When you say 'jack mount,' do you mean the extruded part that holds the miniXLR jack? I always tend to make my designs kind of like how ZMF or HiFiMAN does it, with the jack going perpendicular through the outside of the cup. Much easier to design.
Right, my bad, wasn't logged in to TC for some reason. My recommendation would be to make a cylinder (jack's diameter + 2mm) that's perpendicular to wherever you want the jack to go, then put a cylindrical hole the diameter of the jack into it, but only make the hole up to 1mm before the end of the whole thing. Then make one more cylindrical hole that's the diameter of the smaller threaded part of your 3.5mm jack.The rectangular piece with a cutout-curve. Thats where my 3.5mm jack goes in.
Something like this:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9J0UPEBPL51
Whether your 3.5mm jack has its larger plate designed to be outside of or behind the outcropping shouldn't matter, just finagle it a little bit so you can screw it down.
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