2359glenn | studio
Sep 14, 2020 at 6:37 PM Post #37,426 of 39,981
I have the OTL on a shelf and, up until now, if I wanted to adjust the volume I had to stumble out of my comfortable chair. Serendipitously, I recently found a used Schiit Saga with a stepped attenuator (64 steps) and a REMOTE! Life is good! lol :)

You can always use the "GOTL Remote" for much less $$$... :wink:

1600122882090.png
 
Sep 16, 2020 at 10:03 AM Post #37,427 of 39,981
I recently made a modest change to my system that really pleases me. :)

I have the OTL on a shelf and, up until now, if I wanted to adjust the volume I had to stumble out of my comfortable chair. Serendipitously, I recently found a used Schiit Saga with a stepped attenuator (64 steps) and a REMOTE! Life is good! lol :)

2020-09-14 16.57.24.jpg
Personally, I do not have this issue as my dac(s) have remote to adjust output level and for sure it is very comfortable.
Just a question, do you use the saga in passive mode as i do not see any tube in the saga socket.
 
Sep 16, 2020 at 10:39 AM Post #37,428 of 39,981
Personally, I do not have this issue as my dac(s) have remote to adjust output level and for sure it is very comfortable.
Just a question, do you use the saga in passive mode as i do not see any tube in the saga socket.

Yes, I am using passive mode. I figure I have plenty of tube-goodness with the OTL and I don't need any more. But perhaps if I had a solid-state amp, it would be fun to roll tubes in the saga to add a little tube-flavor. :)
 
Sep 19, 2020 at 8:59 AM Post #37,430 of 39,981
Sep 19, 2020 at 10:33 AM Post #37,431 of 39,981
Ferranti brand tubes. Anyone else have/seen/know anything about the brand?

I can tell you from the construction that those are rebranded Mullard 6J5GT, made in the Tottenham, London factory after Philips / Mullard acquired what was left of British Tungsram in 1952. The spiked top mica is characteristic of Tungsram tubes, you can see it on other models.

f6ef227b8f078b10341865504fc47d6c.jpg
 
Sep 20, 2020 at 10:58 PM Post #37,432 of 39,981
Ferranti was a British company, but I have not been able to find much information about it. I have a Ferranti 5U4G and it it looks (and sounds) different enough from other 5U4G that it doesn't appear to be a rebrand.

https://www.radiomuseum.org/dsp_hersteller_detail.cfm?company_id=6336

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/ferranti_pegasus.html
Found another source re the history of Ferranti:
https://mullard.org/blogs/our-product-manufacturers/ferranti
The company lasted over 100 years and tube production started in 1929. The main emphasis was on engineering, heavy equipment and defence contracts over the years. There is a note that after WW2 they started to supply tubes to other manufacturers. Manufacturer of TV sets from 1936 to 1957.
Ferranti was a developer of the first computers which used tubes.
One item listed for 1926 caught my attention LOL:
1926 Start of production of electric fires
 
Sep 21, 2020 at 5:26 PM Post #37,433 of 39,981
You know those pictures on the internet - somebody taking a picture moments before the accident....
Here is such a picture:
1600721839881.png

Switched the voltage switch to 12V since I am now trying a 1962 Sylvania 12AU7 (branded Baldwin) supported by a small army of Foton 6H8S tubes - sounds very good. And look at that beautiful tube glow!
I usually leave the GOTL on for many hours; with fans it runs very cool. The amp played for an hour or so and I went outside for an errand and came back inside: Horror! A terrible room shaking hum!
Threw myself on the blue halo elevator power switch - the hum went away but it continued playing for a little while. Never a dull moment! What's going on????
Yanked out the adapter with the 12AU7 - could it be a bad adapter? Nothing smells burnt...
Switched back to 6.3V and put in a known working adapter w/ tube - everything is fine! Big sigh of relief....
But what happened? I have this box of tubes with the same pinout and using the same adapter:
12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7, 12AZ7, 12BH7, E180CC (courtesy Phantaminum), 5693.
Let's see, 6SN7 is 6.3V, 12SN7 is 12.6V - let's check these tubes:
Why in the world would a 12AU7 be 6.3V and all the 12s listed are 12.6V??? (The only other tube listed above that is not 12V is the E180CC).
So the nice tube glow came from a tube struggling with a tube-lethal dose of voltage....
Luckily I have a spare.
All is well again.
Did I mention that it sounds very good?
 
Sep 22, 2020 at 5:21 PM Post #37,434 of 39,981
You know those pictures on the internet - somebody taking a picture moments before the accident....
Here is such a picture:

Switched the voltage switch to 12V since I am now trying a 1962 Sylvania 12AU7 (branded Baldwin) supported by a small army of Foton 6H8S tubes - sounds very good. And look at that beautiful tube glow!
I usually leave the GOTL on for many hours; with fans it runs very cool. The amp played for an hour or so and I went outside for an errand and came back inside: Horror! A terrible room shaking hum!
Threw myself on the blue halo elevator power switch - the hum went away but it continued playing for a little while. Never a dull moment! What's going on????
Yanked out the adapter with the 12AU7 - could it be a bad adapter? Nothing smells burnt...
Switched back to 6.3V and put in a known working adapter w/ tube - everything is fine! Big sigh of relief....
But what happened? I have this box of tubes with the same pinout and using the same adapter:
12AX7, 12AU7, 12AT7, 12AZ7, 12BH7, E180CC (courtesy Phantaminum), 5693.
Let's see, 6SN7 is 6.3V, 12SN7 is 12.6V - let's check these tubes:
Why in the world would a 12AU7 be 6.3V and all the 12s listed are 12.6V??? (The only other tube listed above that is not 12V is the E180CC).
So the nice tube glow came from a tube struggling with a tube-lethal dose of voltage....
Luckily I have a spare.
All is well again.
Did I mention that it sounds very good?

I'm not sure I precisely understand what happened here...

But I think I will take this opportunity to remind folks that 12A-7 tubes can be configured to run as 6-volt or 12-volt tubes, depending on how the heaters are connected. And if the adapter is 12A-7 to 6SN7, then the heaters will be configured to operate in 6-volt circuits. But if the adapter is 12A-7 to 12SN7, the heaters will be configured to operate in 12-volt circuits.

Also, both the E180CC and the E80CC have the same pinout as the 12A-7s, and thus they too can be configured to operate in either 6-volt or 12-volt circuits.

Be careful out there. :)
 
Sep 22, 2020 at 5:35 PM Post #37,437 of 39,981
I am reposting my GOTL GIF for no reason other than I just remembered it. Some day I will do something with all of those OTL power tubes.

Are you working on any amplifiers right now, @2359glenn ?

anigif.gif
 
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