[ClieOS]

Excellent is right! You can now make me a nice short balanced cable for my H1701's and ES100!

I might have something cooking...

 

[Beeswax]

Hey, I'm looking for a reasonably priced balanced cable for this to use with the fiio q1 mk2, and I was wondering if something like this will fit? I've heard they have very small slots.

 

[waynes world]

Hey, I'm looking for a reasonably priced balanced cable for this to use with the fiio q1 mk2, and I was wondering if something like this will fit? I've heard they have very small slots.

It's an HE400 replacement, so yes, it should work with the H1707.

 

[Floschi12345]

I just received my silver/grey version. And after several tests with my Note 9, my Fiio X5III DAP and my SMSL IQ Headphone Amp/DAC, I came to the 100 percent sure conclusion that my headphone is wired out of phase. I did several Phase Tests and inverted the phase of one channel with JRiver (that solves the problem), switched the cables around and so on. Did anyone else experience this? Thanks a lot!

 

[Slater]

I just received my silver/grey version. And after several tests with my Note 9, my Fiio X5III DAP and my SMSL IQ Headphone Amp/DAC, I came to the 100 percent sure conclusion that my headphone is wired out of phase. I did several Phase Tests and inverted the phase of one channel with JRiver (that solves the problem), switched the cables around and so on. Did anyone else experience this? Thanks a lot!

I’d contact 1More. They have excellent customer service, and the headphones have a warranty. I’m sure they’ll get you all fixed up.

 

[Floschi12345]

Thanks for your quick reply. I contacted Amazon. I will get my replacement already today. I hope this will solve it, since I was blown, when I inverted the phase of one channel with JRiver Media Center. Maybe I have got the one out of 100.000 that was wired out of Phase. I would just switch one cable (like you can with two-pin IEMS for example) but this is not possible with the 1More...

 

[UpTo11]

Has anyone listened to the Fostex Massdrop TH-X00 Mahogany and can compare them with 1more TDOE?

 

[KANNONS]

I got mine this morning, wore them for three hours straight. No antihelix problems,heat spots or out of phase issues. Yeah the mids are a little recessed, but I have have other headphones to go to for more mids. I watched all the YouTube reviews from Lily Cats to big Z and was a bit skeptical. Not anymore. As intended, these will easily hold their own for portable listening and are a welcome addition to the pack. Senn momentum 2 and Takstar Pro82 get most of the portable time, so these will fit in nicely. So thankyou ear shape, 1More, and the person who sold them to me for $200 Australian. Crikey.

 

[Thenewbie76]

Can someone tell me about their imaging and sound stage ? Is the imaging precise and sound stage slightly wide ? I wannabe know if this would double as a gaming/movie headphone

 

[Nothatso]

Can someone tell me about their imaging and sound stage ? Is the imaging precise and sound stage slightly wide ? I wannabe know if this would double as a gaming/movie headphone

I recently sold mine and can't quite recall the quality of imaging, but they were definitely wide sounding for a closed back. I thought they were great for fun gaming/movies if you can tolerate a heavier on-ear headphone.

 

[Thenewbie76]

I recently sold mine and can't quite recall the quality of imaging, but they were definitely wide sounding for a closed back. I thought they were great for fun gaming/movies if you can tolerate a heavier on-ear headphone.

Thx for the insight. I'm seeing some of the reviews on Amazon say that also. So I guess this just confirms that they could double as gaming hp

 

[theothertwin]

This is an excellent thread and the mod tips are great, thank you all.

I just got a pair on the basis of this thread, the H1707 from most reviews showed them to be great at their price point (i paid £171), and I liked that you could improve them with some simple modding.


I was going to give my layman's view on the sound but have found that my pair has the polarity reversed, and there's a slight driver mismatch. The higher frequencies match, so I think it's just the main drivers. When I first got them I thought something was off but as both (main) drivers are the same, I used the audiocheck website to verify (polarity + mismatch tests).

I read that some manufacturers wire them this way to give faux soundstage, I'm assuming that's not the case with 1More. Has anyone else checked the polarity of their units?


I must have children's ears as the fit is comfortable. I did try the position swap mentioned by Slater, but found you lose some of the fun on a physical level. The tweeters do something to my ears that is missing when switched. With regards to sound improvements, I cant say as its often subjective but the trebles/highs massage/vibrate in a most pleasing way, which isn't the same when swapped.

 

[Slater]

This is an excellent thread and the mod tips are great, thank you all.

I just got a pair on the basis of this thread, the H1707 from most reviews showed them to be great at their price point (i paid £171), and I liked that you could improve them with some simple modding.


I was going to give my layman's view on the sound but have found that my pair has the polarity reversed, and there's a slight driver mismatch. The higher frequencies match, so I think it's just the main drivers. When I first got them I thought something was off but as both (main) drivers are the same, I used the audiocheck website to verify (polarity + mismatch tests).

I read that some manufacturers wire them this way to give faux soundstage, I'm assuming that's not the case with 1More. Has anyone else checked the polarity of their units?


I must have children's ears as the fit is comfortable. I did try the position swap mentioned by Slater, but found you lose some of the fun on a physical level. The tweeters do something to my ears that is missing when switched. With regards to sound improvements, I cant say as its often subjective but the trebles/highs massage/vibrate in a most pleasing way, which isn't the same when swapped.

The headphone drivers should not be wired out of phase. That’s a QC defect, and you should get it swapped out with the seller or 1More.

Glad they fit your ears and sound good!

I finally found 2.5mm jacks that fit the cups, so I hope to get an upgraded cable finished up this week.

 

[theothertwin]

Thanks Slater. I'm still on my 30 day return period.

The first mod (if I attempt it) will be the ingenious foam one but rather than sacrifice the originals, I thought I'd get something like this BEYERDYNAMIC SPARE FOAM INFILL For DT100 headphone, DT108. One site has them for 22p, and they seem about the right thickness.


I recall one mod you did to fix an issue on the gold pair your brother (i think) has, i.e removing the bass reflector/radiator. Out of interest, do you get to the part from the outside, or with the pads removed.

 

[Slater]

Thanks Slater. I'm still on my 30 day return period.

The first mod (if I attempt it) will be the ingenious foam one but rather than sacrifice the originals, I thought I'd get something like this BEYERDYNAMIC SPARE FOAM INFILL For DT100 headphone, DT108. One site has them for 22p, and they seem about the right thickness.


I recall one mod you did to fix an issue on the gold pair your brother (i think) has, i.e removing the bass reflector/radiator. Out of interest, do you get to the part from the outside, or with the pads removed.

The radiator diaphragm can be peeled off from either side:

Option #1 is to go from the ‘inside’: remove the ear pads, unscrew the driver baffle and you can access the radiator diaphragm from its rear. Then put everything back in reverse. If you do this you must make sure you reattach the baffles and earpads in the proper orientation, as they have to go a very specific direction so that the ceramic tweeter and ear pads line up correctly. As soon as you remove the pads, I would use a silver Sharpie or paint pen or a dab or white out correction fluid to immediately make a small dot on the back side of the ear pad and also the face of the ear baffle at 12 o’clock. This way, you will know how to line them back up when you put it all back together. But don’t worry, these marks won’t be seen with the pads installed (only when the pad is removed).

Option #2 is from the ‘outside’: remove the rear metal grille, then pry up the plexiglass cover. It’s held on by very weak glue. I used a dental tool like the dentist uses to remove plaque from your teeth. You could also use a guitar pick, cell phone spudger tool, or a very small flathead screwdriver like for eyeglasses. From there you can directly remove the radiator diaphragm. Then you remove the glue residue from around the plexiglass window (and it’s mating surface), reglue the plexiglass window back into place (using UV adhesive or 2-part epoxy only), and finally replace the metal grille.

Obviously, doing either option totally voids your warranty.