Post pics of your builds....
Nov 15, 2013 at 10:36 PM Post #9,414 of 9,811
A long long time ago I haxored some HD580. 
 
I bought them with busted drivers in hopes of finding a suitable driver to put in, at lower expense and greater adventure (mostly adventure) than just buying new drivers from Senn. 
 
Well, being hopelessly frugal I plopped some KSC75 drivers in and created a funky hybrid that is does not sound too bad. 
It would have been FAR too easy to solder a cable to the driver, never mind my constant efforts at design obfuscation, so I chopped up the busted drivers and put the little things for the interchangeable cable back in. 
 

 
In case you dont know what HD-580 look like. 
At some point I spray-painted the grills matte black because that dull grey blue has got to go!
 
 

 
Boom! 
That does not belong there. 
 
 

 
Detail. 
The female part of the connector is glued in. 
 

 
Here is one of the original HD580 drivers with the cable-end bits cut off. 
 

 
Closer detail on the original driver. 
I was thinking of maybe making a microphone out of the driver, so I was very careful to keep the wires intact (only 1 driver was actually broken) but have not found any real motivation for it. 
 
Nov 16, 2013 at 9:36 AM Post #9,415 of 9,811
  Something I'm working on...A 6DJ8 amp by Bruce Heran. I'm waiting on my 6DJ8 tubes and some iron from Edcor. I etched the boards and have my fingers crossed for a nice outcome...not because of the design, I'm worried about my iffy board fab skills.
 
 
 

 
 
I am listening to this very same amp as a p.t.p. build, I have "almost" finished in wood. You will love this amp. If i may, I would suggest you raise R2, R3 off the board 1/8" or so and use a more robust heatsink. I know these three parts to be the hot ones needing much air and air circulation.
 

 
Nov 16, 2013 at 11:57 AM Post #9,417 of 9,811
 
If i may, I would suggest you raise R2, R3 off the board 1/8" or so and use a more robust heatsink. I know these three parts to be the hot ones needing much air and air circulation.

 
+1 Just as an add-on: the heatsink is much too close to the capacitors. You will significantly reduce their lifespan as you increase the temperature they're at.
 
Nov 16, 2013 at 12:23 PM Post #9,418 of 9,811
  Cool! thanks for the advice... by the way, what size fuse did you go with on the AC in?


I haven't put in a fuse yet as on the bench i use an electronic fuse which is adjustable from 40 to about 500 watts.
Having said that, looking at trans specs, the low volt side is capable of 12-watts and high side, 8-watts, for 20 total which is 0.166ma at 120v. Adding in about 100% over for turn-on surge and 1/4 Amp should do.
 
Nov 16, 2013 at 12:34 PM Post #9,419 of 9,811
I agree. Most small heat-sinks can be mounted with fins facing out off the board projecting heat away from those caps and physically leaving more room between cap and sink. A general rule of thumb with any power resistor is to board mount with space between. Many diff ways of holding res off board can be used from nothing to special ceramic tubes which slip over the leads before bending them and soldering in.
 
Nov 16, 2013 at 1:18 PM Post #9,420 of 9,811
  Something I'm working on...A 6DJ8 amp by Bruce Heran. I'm waiting on my 6DJ8 tubes and some iron from Edcor. I etched the boards and have my fingers crossed for a nice outcome...not because of the design, I'm worried about my iffy board fab skills.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I do see one possible problem. Have the pics you put up been inverted. The reason being is, in the bottom board pic, the ground for vol pot is on the left. Therefore if pot is mounted as per pic with pot on it,,,,,,,, Full clockwise rotation will turn vol down not up. I must admit,,,"Been there done that".
 

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